2004 v70 d5 fuel pressure problem

[themoosdad]

I have a 2004/04 (pre facelift) v70 D5 that hasn't been used much in the last 3 years although has been started and run every few weeks. It hasn't been run for about 3 months now and the battery was removed.
Has a gearbox issue that I was going to get around to, hence the reason it not being used.
Car has done 100k miles and last time it was started and given a run, was fine other than the gearbox issue.
I put a battery on it this week and as soon as it started there was a knocking from the top end of the engine at idle and at higher revs. If I hold the throttle open slightly then the rpm is inconsistent going both up and down without changing the throttle position and the knocking stays, but will disappear when the rpm is dropping after releasing the throttle, but back again at idle.
I ran the car around the block and in addition to the constant knocking, it goes into limp home mode, displays 'Urgent Engine Service' message and then cuts out. Starting it again, it will still knock, drive a few yards and then limp home mode, message and cuts out.
The is no noticeable smoke from the exhaust.

I put a code reader on it and got :-
P0094 - fuel system leak (small)
P0087 - fuel rail pressure too low
P0088 - fuel rail pressure too high
P0089 - fuel pressure reg 1 performance

I have the Volvo code conversion list -
P0094 - no Volvo code?
P0087 - ECM290D - fuel pressure - signal too low
P0088 - ECM290C - fuel pressure - signal too high
P0089 - ECM2900 - fuel pressure - faulty signal.

I have put on a new fuel filter (screw on metal one) although the old one looked clean.

No obvious signs of any vacuum leaks/split pipes etc.

No obvious signs of any deteriorated/corroded connectors.

I have done an injector leak back test and all were less than 40ml for one minute of idling and reasonably consistant across all injectors.

I have swopped the fuel pressure sensor on the end of the rail with another 2004/54 D5 V70 and no difference.....other car ran fine.

I have checked the resistance on the fuel pressure regulator (on the pump) and got 3.5ohms - exactly the same as the other car that runs fine.
Both cars read 8v on the connector to the regulator.

My next step was to swap over the in tank fuel pumps between the 2 cars, but thought id throw this on here to see if anyone has any sensible suggestions???

I don't have access to VIDA and given the gearbox issue as well, I don't feel inclined to spend much money on a car that I might end up breaking!!

Many thanks.

[cheshired5]

What brand of fuel filter did you use?
To test your tank pump, just unscrew your fuel filter and turn on ignition and observe the flow .
Obviously the flow should be greater than what the car would actually use.

Also get a stethoscope or length of hose pipe to listen to the top of the injectors with the engine running. It should be a fast gentle sewing machine type sound. A knocking injector will sound very obvious. If you have a knock, run through of Diesel Purge may help.

[themoosdad]

Many thanks for the reply Cheshired5.

Filter was a Mann one from Europarts and I think the old one was by Fram. Car had done less than 1000 miles with the old one. Ive mostly used motor factors filters for many years and change them far more frequently than is necessary. Not had any problems to date.

Would you suggest it best to put the diesel purge into the filter?....I have no experience of it or using it.
To be honest, my initial thought was a noisy injector, but couldn't decide for it when I used a through metal screwdriver on the injectors to my ear. I will try a piece of hose pipe!
Injectors are a class/grade 2....am I right in saying that these one are not problematic with being reconditioned like the class/grade1 and 3?

Many thanks.

[Clan]

Originally Posted by themoosdad

Many thanks for the reply Cheshired5.

Filter was a Mann one from Europarts and I think the old one was by Fram. Car had done less than 1000 miles with the old one. Ive mostly used motor factors filters for many years and change them far more frequently than is necessary. Not had any problems to date.

Would you suggest it best to put the diesel purge into the filter?....I have no experience of it or using it.
To be honest, my initial thought was a noisy injector, but couldn't decide for it when I used a through metal screwdriver on the injectors to my ear. I will try a piece of hose pipe!
Injectors are a class/grade 2....am I right in saying that these one are not problematic with being reconditioned like the class/grade1 and 3?

Many thanks.

any injector when " reconditioned " looses its grading after , it may or may not work properly.

[themoosdad]

Ok. Thanks Clan.....i'll bear that in mind if it does turn out to be an injector issue. Never had any reconditioned and was just picking up bits that ive read on here, which can sometimes be a bit misleading!!

[cheshired5]

I've had a couple of starting issues. One was solved by a new Hengst fuel filter (after getting through 4 Crosland).
Your Mann filter may well be ok (I have their air filter fitted) but D5's can be very fussy so don't assume your filter won't be the problem just because it's new.
You can just pour Diesel Purge in your filter and run your car on it until it empties but up to half will be lost and diluted back in your tank because of injector leak back. The best way is to make a closed feed and return system in the engine bay. A bit more hassle but worth it I think. I'll be doing mine in a couple of weeks and will make a YouTube video.
I echo what Clan says on injectors and trust him without question. He helped me sort my other start problem (leaky injector causing low rail pressure). I'd rather take a chance on a used but unmolested injector from a breakers rather than a recon.

[Lancee]

Liqui moly, diesel purge, circa £14.00 delivered for 1 litre from e-bay.

As cheshired5 says, make up a "rig" and run it through neat.

Is there a possibility of condensation in the fuel from being laid up so long?

Might it be worth pumping the old fuel out and putting some fresh in there?

If it runs well on the neat purge solution, could indicate "dirty fuel"

[5cilinder]

If you want to check the electric fuelpump ,bear in mind that there is also a mechanical low pressurepump (integrated in the high pressure pump)
Its easier to put a manometer in the hose (with a t-split)prior the high pressure pump to check if there is enough pressure with raised rpm
(less work than to remove the intankpump)

Second check the wiring from the railpressure regulator connector to the ecu on damage /resistance
Measure with multimeter and wiggle the wiring
Also check the connector to the ecu(where the pressureregulator is connected) on dirt/ corrosion and reseat it firmly

Third: on the high pressurepump there is a flow regulator, check the resistance connector and wiring

[themoosdad]

Many thanks for the replies/suggestions. Not had time to touch this the last couple of weeks until today.
I removed the new fuel filter, put a bowl under the housing and turned the ignition on.......no fuel flow.
I removed the rear seat and cover to the in tank pump, disconnected the 2 fuel lines and turned the ignition on again......no sign of any fuel.
Put 12/15 litres of new fuel in the tank (guage reads half a tank).....tried again and still no sign of any fuel.
I can hear the in tank pump working and can feel a vibration if I put my hand to it, although its noise as not quite as loud as I think it should be.
So, my theory is that maybe something is blocking the pickup within the tank or that the pump is 'too weak' to draw any fuel up through it.
Has anybody come across a 'weak' pump before?
Ive also read articles about a pump from a petrol version being able to be used as they are easier/cheaper to find. Anyone had any comments/advice about that?
Many thanks,

[5cilinder]

Try some more fuel to 3/4 tank to rule the pickup out 1/2 tank aprox is the pivotpont with these kind of problems ,this is a sadle tank wich can give problems if the hose to the left is blocked/squeezed or leak and sucking air