C30 1.6d Suspension arm identification

[Prabh]

Hi All,

I have a couple of advisories on my C30 DRIVe 1.6d 2011:

1. both rear lower control arm bushes
2. nearside rear tailing (or should this be trailing?) arm bush

I have been searching the internet to understand which suspension arms are being referred to here, to see if it is worth tackling the job myself, but due to the different terminology used to describe the rear suspension arms, it is not clear and has added to the confusion.

Any help with identifying these suspension arms (with photos) would be much appreciated.

I am willing to replace the whole arm if just changing the bushes is not worth the work involved.

[Thassos]

Hi Prabh,

I have done these on a petrol C30, pretty sure no difference, the replacement wishbone is a complete piece, and from the Ford parts bin in fact same as on a Mk2 focus so easily available, although quality of different sources will be quite different to choose with care.. esp as you dont want to be replacing them again in 20k miles.

The only tool you need is one to crack the bottom ball joint (seen on Pg2), can be done with a bar and some heavy hits with a hammer but often they dont separate as easily as you would hope.

Def a job you can easily do yourself i would say,..and in a few hours each side when you have all the tools to hand including the obligatory tea break of course

The balljoint and bushes all come as pert of the wishbone, and essentially only 3 bolts to undo on the inner end plus the balljoint end. Just be careful
around the driveshaft gaiter as its easy to poke a hole in it when wielding tools nearby, i usually wrap some bubble wrap around it to avoid that aggro..

Some info attached, your in luck today..

[walshy]

There’s 2 different size ball joints on these arms. 18mm and 21mm diameter. Volvo usually have the 21mm arms fitted which was standard on the ford after late 2007. They are just focus mk2 and s40 arms and we sell them on a daily basis.
As said above best to fit the better quality as I’ve come across the cheaper ones having poorly machined captive nuts in the rear bush.
I’ve just fitted 2 on my c30 t5 but we only had the cheaper ones left in stock so no doubt I’ll be doing them again next year

[AndrasL]

1. both rear lower control arm bushes

These are not too hard to replace. However I did not buy the bushings, since I have no bushing press, but the whole control arm.
here is a video so you will have an idea: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AS4QPooVqBs
Some pointers:
- the torque specification is 110 NM (not what he says in the video)
- to put the control arm in, do NOT follow the video. Instead install the inner bolt first, then put a jack under the suspension and raise it until the car's weight is on it, then install the second bolt (the one closer to you) and now torque them both down. You have to do it this way to align the bolt holes.

Additionally: clean the bolts before you try to remove them wtih a wire brush and use some WD40 on them.

2. nearside rear tailing (or should this be trailing?) arm bush

This one is hard. The tailing arm is the biggest piece of the rear suspension and this bushing is not accessible until you remove some other bolts. If you do not have a special bushing press, the whole tailing arm has to be removed to have enough access to force the new bushing in.
Here is a video on this (i know it is a different car, but suspension is the same): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3n2OzDNeh94

EDIT: added attachement

[Thassos]

oops wrong end of the car, shoukd have read the starting more carefully ,

[Prabh]

Originally Posted by Thassos

oops wrong end of the car, shoukd have read the starting more carefully ,

Your earlier reply was not in vain. There is also an advisory on the front ball joint boot which I did not list in the original post as it was relatively easy job and know I can tackle it. Thanks.

[Prabh]

Originally Posted by walshy

There’s 2 different size ball joints on these arms. 18mm and 21mm diameter. Volvo usually have the 21mm arms fitted which was standard on the ford after late 2007. They are just focus mk2 and s40 arms and we sell them on a daily basis.
As said above best to fit the better quality as I’ve come across the cheaper ones having poorly machined captive nuts in the rear bush.
I’ve just fitted 2 on my c30 t5 but we only had the cheaper ones left in stock so no doubt I’ll be doing them again next year

From my initial search online for parts, found there are so many aftermarket brands and huge price differences. What are the good quality brands? Are Ford OEM parts less expensive than Volvo OEM?

[Prabh]

Originally Posted by AndrasL

These are not too hard to replace. However I did not buy the bushings, since I have no bushing press, but the whole control arm.
here is a video so you will have an idea: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AS4QPooVqBs
Some pointers:
- the torque specification is 110 NM (not what he says in the video)
- to put the control arm in, do NOT follow the video. Instead install the inner bolt first, then put a jack under the suspension and raise it until the car's weight is on it, then install the second bolt (the one closer to you) and now torque them both down. You have to do it this way to align the bolt holes.

Additionally: clean the bolts before you try to remove them wtih a wire brush and use some WD40 on them.


This one is hard. The tailing arm is the biggest piece of the rear suspension and this bushing is not accessible until you remove some other bolts. If you do not have a special bushing press, the whole tailing arm has to be removed to have enough access to force the new bushing in.
Here is a video on this (i know it is a different car, but suspension is the same): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3n2OzDNeh94

EDIT: added attachement

Thanks for the info and advise.
#1 seems pretty straight forward.
#2 Now I know which parts to look at, I'm going to have a look under the car and see if I can tackle it. I don't have a bush press, but if I can get the arm out, I'll improvise with a vice/clamp to remove/insert bush.

[Thassos]

I think its the rear tie rod maybe, youll find most workshops have a press and a helpful one should be able to press out the old (usually needs something like a big socket of the right diameter that matches the bush dia) pressing in the new one is reverse, not sure on these if its better to simply get a new tie bar which comes with bushes, dr haynes mentions removing the coil spring first, if thats any help..