Steering column question p1800

[charlski]

Hi Question re my 1970 p1800. On replacing my steering wheel I noticed that when the old steering wheel was off when I pushed the new steering wheel on the column slowly moved back through the bulk head by an inch or so meaning that the column did not protrude far enough through the new wheel to get the nut to grasp the thread to secure the new steering wheel on. My neighbour helped by pushing the steering column back up through the bulk head from the engine bay but obviously we noted that the column was spring loaded hence him having to push up the column against the pressure of the spring for myself to get purchase on the thread at the top of the column with the nut and then tighten the new steering wheel on. Now I know there is a collapsible column fitted to the P1800 after 68 (I think) but I guess my question is should the column recede back through the bulkhead into the engine bay by an inch or so when the steering wheel is removed on the later models ??? Thanks.

[cassell]

No, I don't think it should move at all!

The only thing I can suggest is that possibly the rubber connector that looks a bit like a universal joint may have softened?

As far as I can see on my 1972 1800ES, the column is made up of the top section which goes through the bulkhead, then the rubber joint, then the hollow tube 'collapsible' part and finally a shaft that goes into the steering box. The horn wire runs through all of these from steering wheel to steering box.

Here's a picture of the rubber joint I refer to, I presume that the function of this is to dampen road vibration in the column?

[charlski]

Thanks for the reply just looked again and the rubber block is fine but it's moving in and out of the collapsible tube top end of it. I see there is a thread on the collapsible tube and a round "nut" with what looks like 2 indents for a special tool to tighten it up. Do I presume that this needs tightening to stop the shaft moving into it ? If so what tool is needed to tighten the round nut on it ?? Thanks.

KC

[Ron Kwas]

charlski;

I don't have specific answers, but would agree with cassell...generally speaking, the shaft below rubber Hardy coupler, down to the steering gearbox is fixed in thrust, and the Hardy coupler cannot give as much as you are saying...I suggest you have a careful look at the entire assembly (plus exploded diagram on GCP site) to determine where the movement is occurring...maybe steering wheel provides location in thrust, and only once you have removed it, is the movement allowed.

I just thought of something...the column compression joint might be loose...isn't that tightened in place by a spanner nut?...I don't recall if that is above or below Hardy joint?

Good Hunting!

[charlski]

Yes think it definitely is the compression joiint looked at diagrams in parts book and it is moving in and out of the tube numbered 50 on the attachment so I guess the nut numbered 51 on the attachment needs tightening ... But it's more like a threaded collar than a nut with 2 indentations on it I guess for a tool to hook into ... Any ideas on what tool and where to get one ?? Thanks

[Ron Kwas]

charlski;

Our two postings crossed in the ether...I think you've found the source of the issue...that is indeed the collapsible joint and the detents on the "tubular nut" (or threaded collar) are for tightening the collar which will prevent the casual compression in thrust (the joint will slip in the case of an accident and the major forces which occur then).

Either use a spanner wrench (alternately as I didn't have one, I believe I might have tightened the collar with a beefy water pump pliers) while someone holds the steering wheel (after you've reinstalled it) from turning...

I'll try to scare up a picture of the style spanner wrench, so you get the concept.

Cheers

[charlski]

Ron Kwas. Think we crossed posts again ... But looks like that's the prob cheers for confirming will now need to locate sone hefty stilsons I guess Thanks.

[Ron Kwas]

scharlski;

Simply searching spanner wrench shows countless variations...you want the pin-type in the approximate size range of the shaft OD(~1.5") the pin hooks in the holes of collar and handle allows one to apply locking/loosening torque with respect to shaft...like I said, if you don't mind a little surface scaring of the collar, a big water pump pliers will do the same thing...

Cheers

[charlski]

Perfect !! Thanks Ron Kwas

[charlski]

Ok so took a look at this today and can't get the threaded collar to move either way it's stuck tight and there is definitely movement of the shaft in this crush tube it looks as if at some point the crush tube and collar have been powder coated as one basically locking the collar on. I'm guessing I need to apply some heat to the collar and thread to soften the powdercoat up a bit, but what direction tightening the threaded collar tightens the shaft into the crush tube ? By turning the collar clockwise up the crush tube towards the steering wheel director or anti clockwise moving the collar down the crush tube towards the front of the car?? Thanks.