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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars

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Restoring my P1800E

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Old Oct 24th, 2009, 21:20   #21
Oilline
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I would go for Megasquirt or similar. Replaces all the sensors with modern equipment and can adapt to any future engine mods. Quite easy to do and lots of fun tuning it yourself on the lap top.
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Old Oct 29th, 2009, 13:38   #22
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I'm planning on going the megasquirt route. If I get the 123 Distributor I assume the only thing I need to control with the megasquirt is the fuel injection? Will this be a suitable conversion considering I'm making some engine mods for extra HP? If I'm just controlling the fuel is there any need to buy the MegaSquirt II or just go with the Megasquirt I?
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Old Oct 29th, 2009, 22:57   #23
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Why bother with a 123 distributor. Much better to let Megasquirt control ignition. All you need is a trigger wheel, crank position sensor and a Ford Edis module. all available from http://trigger-wheels.com/

123 distributor only gives various fixed maps. You cannot tune it to suit your requirements.
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Old Oct 30th, 2009, 13:00   #24
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Excellent. Thanks for the tip (new to this) and I'll not bother with the 123 distributor. Will go for the megasquirt II as recommended on their website.
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Old Oct 30th, 2009, 22:43   #25
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I've ordered all my engine parts but need to get the head ported to make the engine perform correctly. Can anyone recommend someone with experience porting the B20?
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Old Oct 31st, 2009, 11:22   #26
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This is what I was planning for the head, any advice especially around the combustion chamber as this area I think is more down to experience and knowledge of the engine rather than flow bench measurements (correct me if I'm wrong):
Intake port entry enlargement, surface finishing and port matching.
Smooth the intake short side radii, valve guides and valve pockets.
Smooth the exhaust short side radii, valve guides and bowls.
Exhaust port and bowl polishing.
Combustion chamber polishing.
Intake manifold port matching.
Shorten valve guides if not already done?
Larger valves (46 and 38.5) with new hardened seats.
Unshroud the valves. I was thinking of getting this machined by my machinist when doing the new seats and this is one area of the head I'm very weary of messing with as it must be correctly done. How much clearance is recommended around the valves? Is there a maximum volume for the combustion chamber as I want to limit loosing too much low rpm power? And finally is there a ideal combustion chamber shape that is best or is it okay to just match the gasket next to the valves?
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Old Oct 31st, 2009, 12:50   #27
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Be carefull with flowing these heads. If done wrong it can work counterproductive, I would recommend this should be done by a B20 specialist.
Here are some informative sites regarding maintanance&tuning the B20 engines. On the 1800philes site are a lot off very good links, lots to read!
http://www.vclassics.com/archive/index.html
http://www.1800philes.com/
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Old Oct 31st, 2009, 13:09   #28
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Posted comment to old post wrongly.

Last edited by Burdekin; Oct 31st, 2009 at 13:13.
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Old Nov 4th, 2009, 08:11   #29
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It sounds like you are going to throw a huge amount of money at it.
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Old Nov 4th, 2009, 09:06   #30
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It's not cheap but hopefully it shouldn't be too bad. The engine is the most expensive part I'd say and is one part that for me I wanted to improve. I've sourced spare and repair panels cheaply, got a cheap second car and will be doing all the body work and painting myself.
I've source all the engine parts now, everything from KG Trimning except the head which I'm getting from another Swedish company called Sten Parner Motors. Bought a megasquirt EFI on Monday and now hopefully that is the last of the spending for a while and some actual progress on the car needs to start happening.
I pulled the engine and gearbox out of the second car on the weekend. It's been raining heaps here in Aberdeen and I had to have the garage doors open to pull the engine (need the space) and there was a small stream flowing into my garage which was lovely when underneath the car disconnecting the drive shaft etc.
I've taken some pics of the second car which I'll load up when I get some time, have work and study to do so hard to find much spare time at the moment. Off for a holiday next week and then down to Englandshire for two weeks for a course so I won't be back in the garage until December.

A question for those in the know; what size of gap should there be on the outside of the car between the outer sill and the bottom edge of the door on a P1800? Mine seems to have a gap larger than I thought there should be.
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