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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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240 estate MOT failure corrosion advice?Views : 1051 Replies : 13Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Feb 25th, 2019, 11:59 | #1 |
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240 estate MOT failure corrosion advice?
Just took my 240 GL estate for an MOT, failed on 2 corrosion points. suspension mounting offside rear and nearside rear wheel arch. Was a bit surprised as there was no mention on last years MOT (different owner) about anything rust related. Had a look myself and admittedly doesn't look great but wondering if anyone here with experience would confirm if it's really that terrible.
Guy also said their welder said it would be at least 500 quid worth of work which seems a bit excessive, never had to tackle this kind of problem before though so I don't know. What do you think? Also if anyone knows a reputable, reasonable welder in South London or anywhere in London that would be fantastic many thanks |
Feb 25th, 2019, 12:19 | #2 | |
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Feb 25th, 2019, 13:28 | #3 |
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I can't comment on the technicalities, 'atlantean', but would trust 'Clan's judgement in that regard. What I will say is that when my 745 failed its MOT in the same way, I was quoted a not dissimilar amount by a garage that I trust - not in London, I'm afraid - to carry out the necessary repairs.
I came to the conclusion that my car was not worth repairing, and have bought a V70 for what I could have paid for the repairs. The increasing desirability and value of two series cars may well justify the expense in your case however. Regards, John.
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Feb 25th, 2019, 15:11 | #4 | |
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Was thinking of getting another opinion & MOT at another garage as there was nothing mentioned last year, but obviously will need to face the repairs at some point. |
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Feb 25th, 2019, 15:47 | #5 |
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atlantean,
This is almost exactly the same case as I had a few weeks back when my 240 failed on rust (amongst other things) around the sill ends and jacking points. I queried it with the MOT chap since, again, it hadnt shown up on any other MOT for the life of the car and he simply said that they like to poke around a bit more under old cars these days. It seems to be something to do with the spirit of the rule changes aimed at getting old cars off the road in my opinion. Anyway, it's certainly repairable from your pictures. My brother and I managed to do all the sheet metal work, prep and welding in a little over a day but judging by your pictures yours may require a little more time. With man hours and materials, £500 seems reasonable. Still a fair chunk of cash but a lot better than the £800+ I was quoted by the dodgy garage down the street. Best of luck, Alex
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Feb 26th, 2019, 01:22 | #6 |
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Atlantean (that's not a reference to a 19602 double deck bus is it?)
Glenn at GB Autos in Worcester Park is worth a try if you want a 2nd opinion/alternative Good luck! Nick |
Feb 26th, 2019, 08:34 | #7 |
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Hi Atlantean..Same fail points for my old bertha last year..including two new tyres..two trailing arms (one fitted at time of mot) and a few bits and bobs came to £800..it sure hurt at the time to hand that over..as said before this is old school garage repair work and metal has to be cut and fabricated.all takes time and labour while all the computer cars are piling up outside on the forecourt..Some places wont do this work..I was lucky my local garage agreed to do it but the price reflects the reluctance.All that said its just a bad memory now and glad to still have my 240..regards hj.
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Feb 26th, 2019, 11:57 | #8 |
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I repaired similar on both of my cars in the last year, it’s time consuming but not particularly technically difficult welding. There are some pictures in my 245 thread in the project section of you’re interested.
Main comment from me- all the repair panels are available from brookhouse for not much money, which cuts down on the fabrication time considerably. I bought complete inner and outer sill sections and cut off the bits I needed- the quote from a garage may drop slightly if they don’t have to create panels from scratch. Cheers |
Mar 2nd, 2019, 17:26 | #9 |
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Within 30cm of any suspension, steering brake or seat belt mounting point and the panel has to be structural.
So imagine the car without that panel with the corrosion in it and would the structure be affected in that 30cm area. So for example removing the jacking point totally would have no affect on the strength of the panel it is mounted on, in terms of the mounting point. Similarly rust in a front wing on a 240 would not be structural as it is would not affect the main structure if it was absent. Yes it may fail for sharp edges depending on where the rust is but not for anything structural. So have a look and see but I'm with Clan on this one.
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Mar 2nd, 2019, 18:27 | #10 |
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The rust in not a fail on a structual basis and does not look like a sharp edge either.
Having said that it is worth tackling now. It is very hard to see for certain how much work is needed, for London rates £500 does not seem to bad but could almost certainly be done well for less. MOT welding tends to be weld some metal over the top so that it can rust from teh inside out rather than remove the rust and replace with new metal to last |
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