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Reverse light switch

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Old Dec 20th, 2014, 20:25   #1
keithyboy
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Default Reverse light switch

Can anyone tell me where the reversing light switch on a non-GDi S40 1.8 is? I suspect it has packed up but can't find the sodding thing.
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Old Dec 21st, 2014, 01:10   #2
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Really annoying. It's on the gearbox, remove the air box and hose and its the only electric cable going into the gearbox where the gearbox select cables mount on. I've not heard of them failing though are you sure it's not anything else causing it?
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Old Dec 21st, 2014, 02:21   #3
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Do you have the Volvo M56 gearbox, or the Renault M5P one? The way you can tell, is from the location of the reverse gear on the gearknob. If the reverse is under the 5th gear, then you have the VOlvo M56 gearbox. If you have the reverse on the left of the 1st gear, then you have the M5P gearbox.

Here is how to access the reverse light switch on the 1.9D with the volvo M56 gearbox. It it is pretty much the same as the 1.8 with the M56 gearbox

Here is my latest guide:


P { margin-bottom: 0.21cm; }P.western { } This guide is for the replacement of the Reverse Light Switch on the Volvo M56 manual gearbox. If you have the Renault M3P or M5P gearbox or the Mitsubishi engined gearbox, then the location of the sensor and the procedure is different. If your reverse lights are not working or sometimes work after wiggling the gear lever, then it is most probably due to a faulty Reverse Light Switch.


Tools needed:
  • Rachet with small extension
  • 8mm, 10mm, 13mm and 18mm sockets
  • 22mm deep socket
  • Trolley Jack
  • Torque wrench
Before you get started, make sure you have the anti-theft radio code








The reverse light switch is located under the gearbox mounting bracket, which will have to be undone. The mounting bracket supports the weight of the gearbox on that end so we will need to place a trolley jack under the gearbox and raise it just enough so it just supports its weight.
Photo1 (need to take and add one)



The job can be done without removing the battery, but I personally chose to remove it out of the way in order to have more space and better access. First of all, you will need to remove the battery clamp (red circle) and disconnect the two terminals (yellow circle).



Unplug the connector to the MAF sensor (Red arrow). Loosen the jubilee clip using the 8mm socket (green arrow) and pull out the hose. You can also use a flat blade screw driver to undo the jubilee clip screw). Undo the four clips (yellow arrow) securing the top cover of the air filter box and remove it. Depending on the model of your car, you may have to unclip some more wiring looms or hoses attached to the air filter box.


Undo these two 10mm bolts and remove the bottom half of the air filter box.


You can now see the gearbox mounting bracket. The reverse light switch is under it. Loosen the 18mm nut (green arrow) but DO not remove it. Undo and remove the 3 13mm bolts (red arrows).



You can now swivel the gearbox mount out of the way and you will see the reverse light switch. Disconnect the connector and use the 22mm deep socket to undo the switch.




Replace with new reverse light switch and tighten to 25Nm. Plug the connector back on. Swivel down the gearbox mount and Tighten the 3 13mm bolts of the gearbox mounting at 50Nm. Be careful not to over torque these 3 bolts too much, because otherwise you risk damaging the aluminium treads on the gearbox. Then tighten the 18mm bolt to 98Nm.


Follow this guide in the reverse order to put everything else back together.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg ReverseLightSwitch2.JPG (149.4 KB, 136 views)
File Type: jpg ReverseLightSwitch3.JPG (127.9 KB, 134 views)
File Type: jpg ReverseLightSwitch4.JPG (119.7 KB, 130 views)
File Type: jpg ReverseLightSwitch5.JPG (144.1 KB, 132 views)
File Type: jpg ReverseLightSwitch6.JPG (143.5 KB, 130 views)
File Type: jpg ReverseLightSwitch7.JPG (112.5 KB, 126 views)
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Old Dec 21st, 2014, 09:09   #4
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Cheers gents. That's Boxing Day sorted.
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Old Dec 21st, 2014, 10:49   #5
kieran40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keithyboy View Post
Cheers gents. That's Boxing Day sorted.
Are you mad keithyboy Boxing Day lol you will be seeing 5 gearbox mountings and 6 switches.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2020, 10:59   #6
burak25
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This guide has been blessing. Unfortunately, I failed removing Gearbox nuts (one in the small ring, 12 oclock position in the photos. I tried lubricating and of course supporting with jack etc. Failed. I have to take it to a proper service for this now (either power tools or some other solution might be needed). At least I know what they need to do now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gatos View Post
Do you have the Volvo M56 gearbox, or the Renault M5P one? The way you can tell, is from the location of the reverse gear on the gearknob. If the reverse is under the 5th gear, then you have the VOlvo M56 gearbox. If you have the reverse on the left of the 1st gear, then you have the M5P gearbox.

Here is how to access the reverse light switch on the 1.9D with the volvo M56 gearbox. It it is pretty much the same as the 1.8 with the M56 gearbox

Here is my latest guide:


P { margin-bottom: 0.21cm; }P.western { } This guide is for the replacement of the Reverse Light Switch on the Volvo M56 manual gearbox. If you have the Renault M3P or M5P gearbox or the Mitsubishi engined gearbox, then the location of the sensor and the procedure is different. If your reverse lights are not working or sometimes work after wiggling the gear lever, then it is most probably due to a faulty Reverse Light Switch.


Tools needed:
  • Rachet with small extension
  • 8mm, 10mm, 13mm and 18mm sockets
  • 22mm deep socket
  • Trolley Jack
  • Torque wrench
Before you get started, make sure you have the anti-theft radio code








The reverse light switch is located under the gearbox mounting bracket, which will have to be undone. The mounting bracket supports the weight of the gearbox on that end so we will need to place a trolley jack under the gearbox and raise it just enough so it just supports its weight.
Photo1 (need to take and add one)



The job can be done without removing the battery, but I personally chose to remove it out of the way in order to have more space and better access. First of all, you will need to remove the battery clamp (red circle) and disconnect the two terminals (yellow circle).



Unplug the connector to the MAF sensor (Red arrow). Loosen the jubilee clip using the 8mm socket (green arrow) and pull out the hose. You can also use a flat blade screw driver to undo the jubilee clip screw). Undo the four clips (yellow arrow) securing the top cover of the air filter box and remove it. Depending on the model of your car, you may have to unclip some more wiring looms or hoses attached to the air filter box.


Undo these two 10mm bolts and remove the bottom half of the air filter box.


You can now see the gearbox mounting bracket. The reverse light switch is under it. Loosen the 18mm nut (green arrow) but DO not remove it. Undo and remove the 3 13mm bolts (red arrows).



You can now swivel the gearbox mount out of the way and you will see the reverse light switch. Disconnect the connector and use the 22mm deep socket to undo the switch.




Replace with new reverse light switch and tighten to 25Nm. Plug the connector back on. Swivel down the gearbox mount and Tighten the 3 13mm bolts of the gearbox mounting at 50Nm. Be careful not to over torque these 3 bolts too much, because otherwise you risk damaging the aluminium treads on the gearbox. Then tighten the 18mm bolt to 98Nm.


Follow this guide in the reverse order to put everything else back together.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2020, 11:12   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burak25 View Post
This guide has been blessing. Unfortunately, I failed removing Gearbox nuts (one in the small ring, 12 oclock position in the photos. I tried lubricating and of course supporting with jack etc. Failed. I have to take it to a proper service for this now (either power tools or some other solution might be needed). At least I know what they need to do now.
Is the head of the bolt damaged, or is the bolt too tight?. The bolts are not torqued that high and with a breaker bar, they come loose fairly easily
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Old Jun 3rd, 2020, 20:46   #8
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As above, I used a 1/2" breaker bar to slacken them and with a bit of encouragement they came out easy. Steel and aluminium together aren't a great combination as they develop galvanic corrosion which is nature's loctite.
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Old Jun 4th, 2020, 14:54   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gatos View Post
Is the head of the bolt damaged, or is the bolt too tight?. The bolts are not torqued that high and with a breaker bar, they come loose fairly easily
It seems like bolt is damaged, I tried 1/2" breaker bar as mentioned but it was impossible to get a proper grip.. I am going to a friends place tomorrow. We will try heating and if that does not work, weld another bolt over to take it out. Last option is to drill it out but then I need to get a replacement part...

BTW. Wow I didn't expect any replies in such old topic. I am really impressed.
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Old Jun 4th, 2020, 18:13   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burak25 View Post
It seems like bolt is damaged, I tried 1/2" breaker bar as mentioned but it was impossible to get a proper grip.. I am going to a friends place tomorrow. We will try heating and if that does not work, weld another bolt over to take it out. Last option is to drill it out but then I need to get a replacement part...

BTW. Wow I didn't expect any replies in such old topic. I am really impressed.
I'm sure you'll be aware (don't want to teach anyone to suck eggs!) but be really careful if it needs heat, aluminium gearbox will melt/fracture very easily. Try some WD40 or similar and leave it for a short while just in case that's enough to shift it. Also if the bolt is slightly rounded make sure you use a 6 sided socket and not a multi spline one (unless you're already doing that anyway). Could be enough to help shift it.
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