850 Cars: to all volvo 850 owners hidden rust please read

[svensktoppen]

Originally Posted by amazondean

I think all 850 owners need to read the article in the sticky about hidden rust. It is one of the last articles at the moment.

Do you have a link to this article please? I can't find it.

Cheers,

[amazondean]

click on the fourth "sticky down the list" they are above these posts

[svensktoppen]

This one?

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...ht=850+killers

Handy checklist together with the "buyer's guide" one

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=46939

[amazondean]

The article is on page 5. Seventh post down. I have explained where it is and how to tackle the issue. Sooner rather than later!!

[Cookeh]

Originally Posted by Cookeh

Whipped one of mine off today whilst in the area, just to assess the damages.

Arch liner dirt 2
Bottom left of this image you can clearly see a patch of damp dirt, along with my rust. You can also see the dirt and debris on the top of the arch liner to the right.

Thankfully, I have gotten off rather lightly with just some minor surface rust around the seatbelt mounting point, which I shall be treating shortly. Alongside checking and treating this area, I would also recommend pulling the liners off with some regularity (once a year or so, or whenever you clean the arches) to ensure the area behind is clean. I will also be adding a layer of Dynax UB once clean as well.

Following on from this, I finally got around to addressing mine over the last weekend.

With the arch liner off, here is the rust I had. It has actually developed a fair bit in the year since I last photographed it.



In my case I could get away with wire-wheeling, and using a flap-disc to get to this position:



From this point I was able to apply Bilt Hamber Hydrate80 rust convertor and a coat of Dinitrol 4941 underbody.

4941 applied

Excluding time taken for paint to dry both sides took me around 2 hours, with a materials cost of £30 (Bilt Hamber Hydrate80 and one 500mL can of Dinitrol 4941 - the latter will be sufficient to do both arches, and everything behind the rear bumper with plenty to spare). The added bonus is there is a small reduction in NVH thanks to the underseal on the arches.

[Derek UK]

Perhaps i should know, but what is the odd shaped plate? It almost looks as if it's nailed on! Volvo still used nails on the Amazon but that was a long time back.

[Cookeh]

Its plug-welded and certainly appears to be the starting point of at least some of the rust. As for what it is, it does seem to correlate roughly with the location of the bracket that holds the seat bolsters. Hopefully someone who's had to cut pieces out (Dean, perhaps?) can offer a better explanation having seen the cross-section!

[amazondean]

That piece is a strengthening section for the rear seat swivel. When the area gets too bad that will need reconstructing from the inside as well as the outside. Getting the location for the seat swivel mount is critical to a millimeter, as if you get it wrong, the seat will be fractionally out and doesn't lock into position at the top very well. You only need to be a couple of mm's out and it will catch as you push the rear seat up into position!

[volvo2]

Although I like to think my car is in pretty good condition (well, for a 30 year old at 270k miles), I have detected this corrosion issue under the rear wheel plastic liners. I've slapped some underseal on by bending the plastic liners best I can for now but will have to address this properly in the summer. If I need any welding, does anyone know of anyone in the Worcester area?