D5 (2005 on) Swirl Chamber operating arm

[Beavis]

nice work, maplins sell packs of small bolts up in 19-25 mm length. just had to cut it to size.

[vagmuncher]

I have fitted my new arm, just hoping it lasts a while, my only concern is if the hole i drilled will start to open up after a while with all the pulling on it.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ij3GoG7H6KE

[Beavis]

Originally Posted by vagmuncher

I have fitted my new arm, just hoping it lasts a while, my only concern is if the hole i drilled will start to open up after a while with all the pulling on it.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ij3GoG7H6KE

if you do the back stop like in my earlier photo in this thread, it is meant to stop the little arm on the motor trying to stretch it back too far. hopefully it will hit this before it breaks the bolted connection.

[Clan]

Originally Posted by StuT4

if you do the back stop like in my earlier photo in this thread, it is meant to stop the little arm on the motor trying to stretch it back too far. hopefully it will hit this before it breaks the bolted connection.

It is important that the arm has full travel as the end stop positions are memorised by the ecu and if the arm's full stroke is restricted you will get the limp mode and fault code ... also the air flow through the system is carefully monitored so if the flaps dont shut completly again you will get the code and limp mode . However if the flaps fail in the open position the system will not notice it .

[Beavis]

Originally Posted by Clan

It is important that the arm has full travel as the end stop positions are memorised by the ecu and if the arm's full stroke is restricted you will get the limp mode and fault code ... also the air flow through the system is carefully monitored so if the flaps dont shut completly again you will get the code and limp mode . However if the flaps fail in the open position the system will not notice it .

sorry, forgot to mention when i fitted this, to calibrate it, i let the arm go through the movement motions, with the back stop lose, and only once i was certain it have travelled through its longest reach, i tightened it up.

[bic1]

Yes, it is important the "bump stop" allows full movement of the arm, and just takes the strain off the mechanism at the end of the travel.

Mine has been OK now for over 16K miles, except for one hot day when the glue gave up on the plastic buffer and allowed the mechanism to overdrive - something that happens every fifth engine switch off, and the cause of the whole swirl arm problem, IMO.

I was especially pleased it worked on my engine as the part of the mechanism in the engine is now so knackered that the arm drops out far too easily. To date, the bump stop alone has worked, with no other mod.s

[Turbonegro]

Hi,

Does Anyone try to remove the flaps or the hole axel where the flaps are mounted? Would it mix up the airflow-sensor if they are removed?

Are the flaps so big that they can't go trought the intake tube, like on the BMW motors?

[S60D5-185]

Originally Posted by jonesys60

Essentially it is the same method as has been mentioned on numerous occasions on the forum, but instead of attempting to drill the 'lever' part of the mechanism on the engine, instead I took a 2mm nail and heated it to red hot and passed it through the plastic lever (on the engine) as centrally as possible to where the ball joint fits inside the cup.
I then drilled a 2mm hole through the ball joint end of the arm and fitted a 1.5mm split pin through both parts and carefully splayed the end of the pin. This literally took me about 15 minutes to do and so far has held up fine.

This is DEFINITELY the best way to get a hole through the arm AT 90 degrees and does not necessitate removing anything on the engine . The only alteration i made to this suggestion was to use a thin nut and bolt instead of the split pin.

I would never have thought of doing it this way but it's brilliant.

Thanks Darryl

[windmill83]

All,
Just for info.
I have just had the Swirl valves changed on my 55' S60.

I have had a good read on the forums of people being surprised by the prices quoted to do the change out from both dealers and independants.
I have to say... IT WILL COST!!!
Dont take the cheapest option, find out what work they will do EXACTLY!

So far for me,
Swirl valve assembly £81 (cost)
2 hours labour £100

£181 is cheap i hear you cry.

Cost of the seals going on the injectors and spraying diesel around my engine bay because the mechanic thought he could save me some money....

The car is back in the garage (1 week ago) waiting on new single use fuel pipes (6 off), single use injector seals and specialist volvo tools.

I have yet to hear the price for these parts, but rest assured, I will not be paying the labour since it should have been done in the first place.

Also, If anyone needs the plastic arm, I have one spare now. PM me. (it was one clip on the cup that gave up)

[carl4u44]

I too im curious how much these fuel pipes cost!