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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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Occasional stalling when flashing main beamViews : 2714 Replies : 42Users Viewing This Thread : |
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May 4th, 2018, 08:57 | #21 |
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And maybe the wire from 30 (+) batterie to this box 15/1 is broken/damaged. Only with a multimeter you will find where the voltage drop is
Good luck, with a little time I will find my rhd loom and are able to tell you the location of 15/1, Kay |
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May 4th, 2018, 10:04 | #22 | |
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Absolutely a voltage drop test will show it. It will be there even if the vehicle is running - it will just get greater over time and with greater load. "Flashing" the headlights can mean that the high beam and low beam are on together. Thats close to 20A plus all the other loads. Plenty to show up a resistance! |
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May 4th, 2018, 10:08 | #23 |
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I have to agree that's the most likely cause of the loss of power, there are too many separate earths in the circuit with not enough possibility for back-feeds for an earth point to be the culprit.
There was a favourite on the old Mk2/3 Astras where the coil and/or ignition amp shared an earth with the wiper motor. This earth would get corroded (despite being on the bulkhead under the plenum cover) and would fail. First symptom would be rough running when the wipers were used, second symptom would be it would cut out when the wipers were used. The slight resistance caused by the bad earth would still let the ignition amp do its stuff until the wiper were used and the extra current across that resistance would cause the voltage to rise on it, preventing the ignition amp from working and making the wipers slow. Just FYI Ash, our Mk3 Astra is the same as the Holden Astra in NZ from 95-98 so if you ever get one with those symptoms, you know where to look!
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May 4th, 2018, 10:29 | #24 | |
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I've had loads of them, mainly between doors etc and bodyshells but a few under the bonnet as well. The two most memorable were on German cars, first was an 88 300E Merc. Not only was the wire broken, it was the main feed to the boot light and shorting out against the bodywork in the general area under the parcel shelf. Just for fun, the owner had been increasing the fuse size all the way up to 40A before he finally conceded there had to be a problem! All the seats, carpet and trim had to come out to find it because it was hidden - nightmare of a job! Second most memorable was a 90/91 BMW 5 series in the link between B pillar and rear drivers side door. Just for fun, it had been deadlocked just before the wire broke! As such, the back seats had to come out to minimise dage to the door card then had to jump across to the deadlock to unlock it and then unlock the door normally. There have been countless alternator field and battery sense wires that have broken causing charging problems, a few alternator output wires, headlamp feed wires and countless others less memorable. Maybe it's a Southern Hemisphere thing, warmer climate keeps the wires more flexible so they break less?
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May 4th, 2018, 10:49 | #25 |
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I should have prefaced with "under normal circumstances". This would exclude panelbeaters gas-axing looms while doing a cut and shut, any wire in the engine bay of a Jaguar until Ford took over, and the 700-wire loom that every european manufacturer deems necessary to run into the driver's door of their top end models.
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May 4th, 2018, 10:49 | #26 |
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Both the OS headlamp unit and the radio interference suppression relay share the same ground point 31/2, located near the OS head lamp unit. Might be worth a check. If the ground point is overloaded due to bad contact with all the current going to the headlamps, the RISR might fall off.
Or give the RISR an auxiliary ground wire directly to the battery and see if that solves the flashing / dead engine issue. |
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May 4th, 2018, 10:50 | #27 |
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You could have a high resistance joint somewhere, if it was bad it could cause total volt drop. Is the battery slow to charge?
I've found 1v dropping across the crimp to the battery terminal (The cable had a light coating of a green powder (CuSO4?)). Such things are mechanical, ie a bit of movement or heat might change the drop. So probe around with a meter. Check the difference between battery voltage and alt voltage and lights voltage , then find where the voltage is being lost. The cables drop very little normally. After repair my starter cable was dropping <0.1V with the lights on. |
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May 4th, 2018, 11:10 | #28 | |
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Oddly that was quicker and more straightforward to fix than the Merc 300E and the 5 Series BM but the others i quoted were all normal wear and tear.
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May 4th, 2018, 11:18 | #29 | |
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Just to clarify, when you say the OS headlamp, you mean the left hand headlamp?
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May 4th, 2018, 14:42 | #30 |
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Haven't thought about that, bad ground would not explain for the loss of radio memory. But the fact that it does loose its memory suggests a ground problem rather than a feed one as the radio gets a permanent 12V feed and a seperate feed via the ignition key.
OS vs NS, you've got me there again, I mean your NS, our OS, so the left side... |
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