Noisy suspension and stiff steering - Page 3

gmonag · Jul 8th, 2019, 17:52

Yes.
Check out CheshireD5's YouTube channel- SiRobb

WarrenandZoe · Jul 8th, 2019, 19:57

Thanks I'll have a look, would prefer written instructions if you know of any links

gmonag · Jul 8th, 2019, 23:11

Quote:

would prefer written instructions

I don't know of any, but it is a straightforward job.

paddy74 · Jul 9th, 2019, 02:09

Especially the rear mount is a PITA...

Have you tried VIDA for yourself? There are instructions for the change, but a little different. Volvo uses a bridge over the engine (to get it up).

If you use the method from the vid, you need two 1/2 extensions, but they are difficult to get through between the stabilzer and I think it's the engine frame. And don't push up to far, when trying to get out the engine mount, or you break one of your turbo hoses.

We had a discussion about it in a german forum, the essence of it was to change all other engine mounts (five) yourself and leave this last one for the dealer. I got an estimate from an independent for around 70.-GBP (80.-€). Doesn't sound that much...

I did it once by myself (years ago) and I remember, it was not one of these "fun things".

WarrenandZoe · Jul 9th, 2019, 10:55

Ok thanks Greg, paddy I don't know what Vida is 🤔 I have done top mount, front torque mount and have the lower right mount and the rear mount to do, front mount looks like it's recently been done, I've had a look under and the bottom but looks fairly accessable, it's the top nut that looks like it could be a struggle

paddy74 · Jul 9th, 2019, 11:22

@WarrenandZoe
Sorry, thought everyone knows about...

VIDA is the Volvo diagnostic and repair software, that is normally used by the dealers. It is available to download (not totally legal), but heps a lot.

Take a look here:
https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...-Download-Link

WarrenandZoe · Jul 9th, 2019, 11:49

Thank you, will have a look now

WarrenandZoe · Jul 12th, 2019, 18:00

Update - I have replaced the right side lower mount and the rear bottom mount and all noise is gone, tick over is almost silent and there are no more nasty bangs and vibration over bumps and under braking

AidXC90 · Jul 19th, 2019, 22:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by WarrenandZoe

Update - I have replaced the right side lower mount and the rear bottom mount and all noise is gone, tick over is almost silent and there are no more nasty bangs and vibration over bumps and under braking

That's a good result, WarrenandZoe. I think I'm in for similar work on my 2005 D5. How did you find replacing the lower rear engine mount? When loosening it last year to remove my steering rack I found access to the lower bolt very difficult.

WarrenandZoe · Jul 20th, 2019, 18:25

It was actually a lot easier than I expected, I undid the top nut 1st and remove vacuum line (managed to do without breaking) then raised the car, the bottom bolt was a bit hard to get to but do-able with universal joint, then jacked the gearbox enough to remove the top of the mount pin from the bracket, then lower gearbox again and it almost fell out past the subframe, fit new one in reverse, gearbox needed lifting higher for the new one as it was a good 1/2 inch higher

Jul 8th, 2019, 17:52	#21
gmonag Premier Member Last Online: Jan 15th, 2024 17:24 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Bury St Edmunds	Yes. Check out CheshireD5's YouTube channel- SiRobb __________________ Greg

Jul 9th, 2019, 02:09	#24
paddy74 Senior Member Last Online: Mar 29th, 2021 13:49 Join Date: May 2019 Location: Near Munich	Especially the rear mount is a PITA... Have you tried VIDA for yourself? There are instructions for the change, but a little different. Volvo uses a bridge over the engine (to get it up). If you use the method from the vid, you need two 1/2 extensions, but they are difficult to get through between the stabilzer and I think it's the engine frame. And don't push up to far, when trying to get out the engine mount, or you break one of your turbo hoses. We had a discussion about it in a german forum, the essence of it was to change all other engine mounts (five) yourself and leave this last one for the dealer. I got an estimate from an independent for around 70.-GBP (80.-€). Doesn't sound that much... I did it once by myself (years ago) and I remember, it was not one of these "fun things". __________________ Volvo XC90 D5 AWD Summum MY05 Harley-Davidson Ultra Classic Electra Glide MY91 FLHTCU

Jul 9th, 2019, 11:22	#26
paddy74 Senior Member Last Online: Mar 29th, 2021 13:49 Join Date: May 2019 Location: Near Munich	@WarrenandZoe Sorry, thought everyone knows about... VIDA is the Volvo diagnostic and repair software, that is normally used by the dealers. It is available to download (not totally legal), but heps a lot. Take a look here: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...-Download-Link __________________ Volvo XC90 D5 AWD Summum MY05 Harley-Davidson Ultra Classic Electra Glide MY91 FLHTCU

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Jul 8th, 2019, 19:57	#22
WarrenandZoe Member Last Online: Jul 17th, 2022 20:14 Join Date: Jun 2019 Location: Stoke-on-Trent	Thanks I'll have a look, would prefer written instructions if you know of any links

Jul 9th, 2019, 10:55	#25
WarrenandZoe Member Last Online: Jul 17th, 2022 20:14 Join Date: Jun 2019 Location: Stoke-on-Trent	Ok thanks Greg, paddy I don't know what Vida is 🤔 I have done top mount, front torque mount and have the lower right mount and the rear mount to do, front mount looks like it's recently been done, I've had a look under and the bottom but looks fairly accessable, it's the top nut that looks like it could be a struggle

Jul 9th, 2019, 11:49	#27
WarrenandZoe Member Last Online: Jul 17th, 2022 20:14 Join Date: Jun 2019 Location: Stoke-on-Trent	Thank you, will have a look now

Jul 12th, 2019, 18:00	#28
WarrenandZoe Member Last Online: Jul 17th, 2022 20:14 Join Date: Jun 2019 Location: Stoke-on-Trent	Update - I have replaced the right side lower mount and the rear bottom mount and all noise is gone, tick over is almost silent and there are no more nasty bangs and vibration over bumps and under braking

Jul 20th, 2019, 18:25	#30
WarrenandZoe Member Last Online: Jul 17th, 2022 20:14 Join Date: Jun 2019 Location: Stoke-on-Trent	It was actually a lot easier than I expected, I undid the top nut 1st and remove vacuum line (managed to do without breaking) then raised the car, the bottom bolt was a bit hard to get to but do-able with universal joint, then jacked the gearbox enough to remove the top of the mount pin from the bracket, then lower gearbox again and it almost fell out past the subframe, fit new one in reverse, gearbox needed lifting higher for the new one as it was a good 1/2 inch higher

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