V40 2.0t auto reviews/opinions please

[Samwell]

Well, I'm not sure about the fuel pump... I Have a engine heater which I use in the mornings as it's pretty cold here and I don't fancy sitting for 5 minutes waiting for the windows to dethaw and demist... When Thats working, you can hear the in take pump banging away. It might well be making more noise than it should. Could it be that this will cause overfuelling as well as underfunding?

My mpg is pretty dire. I only really do town driving, but it's more straight through town than start stop, but still, I'm getting about 20mpg... Maybe 25-27 on longer runs when the cars heated up properly. Bad huh.

Engine temp sensor is a good one. I've thought about that, and the maf, a few times. Im not sure I can get a multimeter, maybe. But where is the sensor located on the 2.0t engine?

Water heats up within 5 minutes, feels normal. Needle sits at 3, not sure on precise temp though. Water never seems to get "really" hot but enough to steam. I don't have any faults coming up on VIDA about engine temp etc, but perhaps it wouldnt anyway

[Baffler]

Originally Posted by Samwell

Well, I'm not sure about the fuel pump... I Have a engine heater which I use in the mornings as it's pretty cold here and I don't fancy sitting for 5 minutes waiting for the windows to dethaw and demist... When Thats working, you can hear the in take pump banging away. It might well be making more noise than it should. Could it be that this will cause overfuelling as well as underfunding?

You mean and auxiliary engine heater? How is this fed? Alternating current (house mains) or direct current (battery)?

Originally Posted by Samwell

My mpg is pretty dire. I only really do town driving, but it's more straight through town than start stop, but still, I'm getting about 20mpg... Maybe 25-27 on longer runs when the cars heated up properly. Bad huh.

20mpg sounds a bit low but, given your climate, the car is constantly having to keep up to temp. Is the the above auxiliary heater disabled when you're on the move?

Originally Posted by Samwell

Engine temp sensor is a good one. I've thought about that, and the maf, a few times. Im not sure I can get a multimeter, maybe. But where is the sensor located on the 2.0t engine?

Looking at the engine, from the front of the car, it is located to the left of the engine on the thermostat housing just behind the power steering pump.

Originally Posted by Samwell

Water heats up within 5 minutes, feels normal. Needle sits at 3, not sure on precise temp though. Water never seems to get "really" hot but enough to steam. I don't have any faults coming up on VIDA about engine temp etc, but perhaps it wouldnt anyway

Sounds good! And you can communicate with the car.

Have you been to: Diagnostics > Vehicle Communication > ECM > Parameters? This will show you live info and, in most cases, expected values.

[Samwell]

Yes, it's a petrol driven heater for the engine and cabin. Defrosts the car when I set the timer and it also warms the engine for a warm start instead of cold. I have an electric socket to power an electric heater too but I don't have electric at my parking place so I barely ever use it. The petrol heater runs for 15 minutes each time. It's always off when I drive and start the car. When it runs it sounds like a central heating unit, which I guess essentially it is. It's worth more than the car is worth as a spare part.

I'll look at the temp sensor... Maybe If It's cheap enough to replace I'll just buy a new one. As said, the water doesn't seem to get too hot but the engine ticks (coolsdown) a lot after having driven it, more so than any other car I have had.

Well, I wasn't aware of that with VIDA. I'll give it a go sometime soon. Thanks!

[druid]

Eiberspaceri? Essentially a truck or ambulance heater.

[Samwell]

Ok, things are getting worse.

Today I changed oil, oil filter. Water level is staying the same, no oil in it either.

When I changed the oil, I did it indoor, in a heated workshop that was a good 18/20 degrees. After changing the oil, I started the car. Straight away the car revved as of it was cold, freezing, holding its revs at 1500rpm or a little more perhaps. It did this for a good 5 minutes or perhaps longer, as it always seems to do. Water temp went up as per usual, not overheating though of course. It never has since I've had it.

Took the car out for a drive, out on the motorway, white smoke all over the place. So much so that I couldn't see cars behind me. Very much worrying. Still no overheating in the water though. Stopped the car when I got home and the engines ticking away like I've been driving all day in the Sahara. Top rad hose very hot (one that goes to the thermostat) bottom rad hose cold... BUT got warm after a few minutes of being parked up.

What would the symptoms be of a bad temp switch? Or a bad thermostat? Overfuelling? High revs when the ambient temperature is plenty warm enough?

I think whatever it is its not doing any good to the car at all and I'm at a loss of what to do 😥

[Samwell]

And now, just getting back from a short drive on my lunch break, the car smoking white as normal, stopped at the gates and the revs started bouncing, as if the car wanted to stall and cut out. I'd have said this was the maf but I really just don't know anymore.

I've already ordered a new thermostat and temp sensor. The maf, if I need to, is ok but will set me back a bit. If It's not that and I keep going and changing things in the car, I just don't know where it's going to stop...

[Baffler]

Did you service the Idle Air Control Valve and both sides of the Throttle Body butterfly valve? The IACV is essentially your automatic choke so if it's clogged with oil/tar deposits the revs and engine behavior will be erratic as it can't adjust accordingly. These are basic service items and need to be cleaned annually/biannually.

Another thought that crossed my mind, with regards to the excess smoke/steam, is your intercooler and boost hoses. Is the car boosting ok under load? Any escaping air whilst boosting?

A new thermostat is no bad thing if it's still on its original. I hope, for the sake of a few sheckles, you went with a genuine Volvo part? It's actually manufactured by Wahler.

[Samwell]

That I did not....

But tonight i Have just changed the thermostat and water sensor. No difference, same amount of white smoke. The old thermostat was nasty, obviously original, same to be said about the water sensor. Filled up the water, went out for a drive, came back. Engine and top rad hose insanely hot but still no fan kicking in. Checked the oil and...

https://ibb.co/e67W5R




<a href="https://ibb.co/e67W5R"><img src="https://preview.ibb.co/cAO4QR/DSC_6975.jpg" alt="DSC_6975" border="0"></a>

<a href="https://ibb.co/e67W5R"><img src="https://preview.ibb.co/cAO4QR/DSC_6975.jpg" alt="DSC_6975" border="0"></a>

So it seems that's my source of all problems. Oil is new, water still not oily and it doesn't appear to be using either, but I can't convince myself any other way around this.

My last hope is to use a headgasket sealant which I've ordered but haven't received yet. I know it's taboo/frowned upon, but it's that or scrap the car.

Sad times

[Baffler]

Would you have it pressure tested before adding a sealant?

It could be the seal in the turbo also as they're water and oil cooled.

[Samwell]

That I could do yes... I'll get it booked in for that.

It just doesn't make sense to me how the coolant doesn't appear to being used yet so much white smoke and now this cream on the cap. I read somewhere that the creamy cap could also be due to excess/unburnt or a byproduct of a rich fuel mixture...