Amazon: Air Leak and Hoses

[swedishandgerman]

By the way, the take off for the breather (3) I think includes some kind of special nipple thingamer that acts as a sort of valve. If I remember correctly, it kind of reduces the pressure in the crank-case so that the chamber can only draw air via the pipe to and from the air cleaner whilst at the same time not allowing a large amount of air into the inlet manifold AND at the same time not allowing an explosion if there's a back fire in the inlet manifold.

Is that nipple thingamer there?

[123GT-AMAZON]

Originally Posted by swedishandgerman

By the way, the take off for the breather (3) I think includes some kind of special nipple thingamer that acts as a sort of valve. If I remember correctly, it kind of reduces the pressure in the crank-case so that the chamber can only draw air via the pipe to and from the air cleaner whilst at the same time not allowing a large amount of air into the inlet manifold AND at the same time not allowing an explosion if there's a back fire in the inlet manifold.

Is that nipple thingamer there?

hi ya

"firetrap" thats called

kind regards
robert

[Derek UK]

The vacuum in the manifold sucks out the air in the servo reservoir and makes it a vacuum in there. When the vacuum in the manifold drops the valve should be sucked shut to retain the vacuum. In this condition you should be able to do 2 or 3 brake applications before the vacuum runs out. As the vacuum reduces the brake pedal gets harder until it needs lots of force to do any braking at all. If you've been steering a car with the engine off you very quickly get to the solid pedal situation. You'll have braking but no assistance. When you start the car from cold next time keep your foot down on the brake pedal but don't push As the engine settles down after starting the pedal should move down a little. If this happens it proves your servo is working. This can be picked up on the MOT as if a servo is fitted, it should work.
The valve is only a shuttle but will work better if horizontal, another reason to have it adjacent to the servo.
None of that directly solves your problems but as said, most carburation problems are solved by getting the ignition working properly.

[edworcs]

Thank you Adam and Derek for the detailed and comprehensive replies. It is much appreciated.

I did the valve timing two weeks ago. I was fortunate in having someone who demonstrated how much pressure I should experience when making the adjustments (they gripped the feeler gauge with finger and thumb to show me this). All set at 20 thou cold. I'm pretty confident that the valve timing is correct which I why I started with the distributor.

As you can see from the photo I have accumulated some spares! Here's where I have got to:

I removed the distributor which has an Aldon Ignitor electronic ignition (distributor number is 0231 146 077). My aim is to remove the possibility that the electronic ignition is the cause of the problem.

I replaced this distributor with an alternative with conventional points (distributor number 0213 146 026 - not a common Amazon model I think?). I might need to go back to the 077 distributor and replace the electronic ignition with points.

Both distributors passed Adam's test as when turned they sprang back.

I set the points to 16 thou (4mm) as per Ron and Adam's instructions.

I used Ron's static timing method (http://www.sw-em.com/Volvo%20Ignitio...%20Scratch.htm) which went according to his clear and useful instructions - slot at 300 degrees, rotor pointing towards number one cylinder. I'm not able to check this yet with my timing light as the engine isn't running smoothly enough to do so.

New (026 points) distributor was put in. Same old cap, same old rotor arm, same old HT leads. One step at a time. Car started, but will not tick over, has no power and is best described as "rough".

Double checked the firing order of 1-3-4-2. On my set up number one lead goes from the distributor cap at 10 o'clock looking at the distributor from the side of the car, number 3 at 2 o'clock, number 4 at 4 o'clock and number 2 at 8 o'clock.

Now I changed the distributor cap and rotor arm from my spares. These are not new items yet. No change, car still running rough.

I don't have an alternative set of points or condenser so I couldn't change these.

I then changed all of the HT leads for ones from my spares, again, not new items. No significant difference. Car running rough still and hard to start and hard to keep running.

I then changed the plugs for ones from my spares which were, all together now, not new. Interestingly, all of the plugs were a lovely tan colour bar the plug for number 4 cylinder which was black. No change to the engine.

I fitted some handy spark tester plugs. These all seem to show a strong spark and no obvious unusual patterns.

Conclusion. The one thing not tested in this set up was the points and condenser, so I'm off shopping for new items. I need to figure out if my 026 distributor has left or right handed points …

Morre news when the new parts arrive!

Ed

[swedishandgerman]

Using your timing light set the timing at 34 degrees when the engine is running fast, say 2,000 rpm upwards. Then see what it's like at idle

Are you saying that the symptoms were the same with both distributors?

It doesn't really matter but an 026 is a B18A distributor and the 077 is a B20A distributor. All I would say is that you most definitely shouldn't connect up the vacuum. Just leave it unattached and plug the nipple on the carb. If you're interested in an 078 for a B20B. I have one

[edworcs]

Thanks Adam.

I've been reading about distributor models since I wrote my post. I also have a 078 in my parts store and this seems like the one to go for.

I'll try your technique for the timing too.

A phone call to Brookhouse should sort me out with the necessary new parts. I'm none the wiser about 2 piece and one piece points and which are left handed and which are right handed. I'm hoping Simon will be able to advise.

Ed

[swedishandgerman]

Go for the 078 one mate. You can get a set of points and condenser for that type in any parts place as they're the same as used in most 70's cars and it's the correct fist for your engine as well as a doddle to work on

[edworcs]

So, a big thanks for the help with this, especially to Adam, the ignition guru. The problem was ignition and not carbs / air leaks.

I solved the problem by replacing the previous distributor with electronic ignition with a different distributor with points. The new / currently fitted distributor is a 078 model and better suited to my B20B engine. It is also cleaned and lubricated.

This wasn't without problems, almost all caused by my inexperience / stupidity :-) Here's some things I learnt during the process.

There are at least 4 different sets of points for Volvo Amazon distributors (according to Simon at Brookhouse). I now have three of these for 3 different distributors:-) There are also at least 2 different condensers. The difference in condensers appears to be the end connection; one has a fork which is trapped on the inside of the distributor and the other has a plastic fitting that achieves the same thing and which fits through the hole in the body of the distributor.

The teeth at the bottom of the distributor that fit into the gear contained in the block are asymmetrical. Mine were on the wrong way around. A vice and centre punch sorted this out. If the teeth are the wrong way around you will have a great deal of trouble getting the car to work correctly :-)

Ron Kwas' static timing instructions are excellent and, as he promises, get the timing to within a degree or so of accuracy when measured with a timing light. I should also point out that the instructions are excellent if you read and follow them correctly. If you don't know the difference between clockwise and anti-clockwise when fitting HT leads you will suffer. You will suffer more if you fail to recognise this several times. You may even swear after fitting the leads incorrectly after what seems like the hundredth time and suddenly realise that leads go anti-clockwise around the cap from number one lead and not clockwise as you have been fitting them!

I can now set the points gap blindfolded, in the dark, one handed and using my teeth - well a slight exaggeration, but there is no way I would go back to the in-cap electronic ignition I was using before. As Adam has said on many occasions, if you set up a points based distributor correctly it will be as good as electronic ignition.

My diagnosis of the cause of the problem was the electronic ignition module which was supplied and fitted by the UK agent on their rolling road and which, looking back, probably "failed" only a few months after fitting. I had a lot of faith in this setup which caused me to go looking for less obvious causes of the problem (hence this thread about air leaks). I will be a little more circumspect in the future.

My car is now working superbly and I'm delighted. Once again, a big thanks to the ever generous Volvo Amazon community for help and advice.

[Derek UK]

"The teeth at the bottom of the distributor that fit into the gear contained in the block are asymmetrical. Mine were on the wrong way around. A vice and centre punch sorted this out. If the teeth are the wrong way around you will have a great deal of trouble getting the car to work correctly :-)"

That statement does need some clarification. The gear which drives the distributor via the camshaft has an offset slot. When dropped into place (you wouldn't normally touch it unless you were doing a cam change) the slot should be offset to the right of centre and be at an angle equal to aprox 10 to 4 on a clock face. The gear will move around a bit as it settles into place. As the distributor rotates at half the engine speed, it's essential that the engine is at TDC on cylinder#1 when the gear is fitted to put the slot in the position above, but because of the 2:1 speed ratio it's easy to get the timing 180º out if you just look down the distributor hole and line up the slot to where you think is correct. I've never heard of anyone having to reposition the drive dog on the distributor. AFAIK the lobe positions are symmetrical and just turning the shaft 180º does the same thing. Maybe your gear has been fitted 180º out due to the TDC being set wrong but this is introducing to many maybes. If you're up and running, the spark plug leads are correct from cap to plug and all's running well, you can drive off into the sunset...

[edworcs]

Derek, your logic and explanation are spot on and had I had some clarity of thought while I was doing this I would have recognised that I could have positioned the distributor 180 degrees "out" and it would have worked. Instead I think that I probably tried to follow Ron's instructions, but badly. I pointed the rotor arm at no. 1 cylinder when it should have been pointing in the opposite direction. My solution to the problem was to compare the drive dogs on the distributors I have and I saw that it was reversed on my chosen distributor. Reversing the drive dog allowed me to follow the instructions more easily.