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Volvo 145

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Old Mar 8th, 2019, 22:49   #1
Vas andy
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Default Volvo 145

Hi guys got a 1968 Volvo 145 replaced brake master cylinder servo 4brake callipers with hoses and rear acumilators and bled the brakes no air in system but pedal goes to the floor can anyone please help me I’m out of ideas

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Old Mar 8th, 2019, 23:34   #2
Triple-S
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Exactly the same age as mine Andy, but my problem was the opposite on this car - new-looking calipers which had seized solid on the discs due a period of storage. New calipers plus replacement flex pipes going on this weekend (I hope).
However, I dived into the memory box and came out with the recall of fitting new calipers onto my 142S years ago - the previous owner put the n/s ones onto the o/s and vv, and I took his word that what he did was correct. After about 10 attempts at bleeding the system to no avail, a Volvo virgin brake fitter decided to look at the pictures, when all became clear! The bleed nipples weren't at their designed positions, so trapped air remained as just that.
A swap round and all was fine. Incidentally did you fit a new master cylinder or an overhaul kit? I ask because mine had a Wagner mc from new but they (an American company) wouldn't sell me, a mere private customer, a new one. I eventually got one via a classic car parts dealer who had an American buyer who bought several, so I bought from him.
Check you have your calipers on the right side too.......

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Old Mar 9th, 2019, 09:35   #3
amazondean
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I did exactly the same on my early P1800 a few years ago. I must have got through 5 litres of fluid while trying to find the trouble. I stripped the master cylinder several times, convinced it must be that. Then realised I had the calipers on the wrong side. You wouldn't believe how easy it is to do
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Old Mar 9th, 2019, 09:51   #4
Laird Scooby
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It's a long time since i had a 140 (30+years ) but another vote for checking you have the calipers on the correct sides.

Also, if you have multi-piston calipers, make sure you use the correct bleeding sequence!

Another useful tip is to remove one caliper mounting bolt so the calipers can be swivelled up so the bleed nipples are uppermost. Use a block of wood to prevent the pistons popping out during bleeding.

When you consider air rises to the top of a fluid, it's blindingly obvious but it took me a long time to realise this simple trick.

Always had spongey brakes on my Rover 827 until i realised, removed the lower caliper bolt and lifted the caliper so the bleed nipple was at its highest possible point, re-bled and job done!
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