S40 V40 Cars: 1.9 diesel limp mode? help!!!!

[MR BILL]

Originally Posted by Baffler

Greyish black smoke can be either over fuelling or lack of airflow.

Can you try swap out the turbo control solenoid with your mates one? It's located on the bulkhead, the one with vacuum hoses going to it.

i think it is over fueling as i only get 21-34mpg nothing over that i will deffo try the control solenoid and the n75 valve hopefully it should be 1 of them. would i expect these symptoms if it was them??

[Baffler]

A blocked or sticking EGR valve can cause these symptoms, so too can a duff TBC solenoid. Worth a try, at least, if you have access to one.

[skyship007]

OK so this does sound like a failed turbo and although as Baffler says there are a few turbo associated items to check before assuming you will need a reconditioned one or perhaps one from the breakers, if this is the original one then after 200,000 miles you are in effect near the life expectancy of the original turbo, unless you used a real good fully synthetic oil and Volvo filters every 6,000 miles and drove only nice long trips on the motorway without a heavy right boot.

Be very careful about a blown turbo causing a diesel run away and blowing up the engine by sucking oil past a turbo seal, because turning off the key will not shut the engine down. If it does happen then just jam it into gear asap, jump on the brakes and stall the engine or it will over rev itself to death in a huge cloud of white smoke.

Interesting comment:I drove it for 98000 miles with out ever cleaning it. the inlet manifold was clogged really bad all 8 holes were almost completely clogged up.

Good to read that because I was trying to figure out when to clean my EGR valve, so reading you did 98,000 before cleaning it is interesting, so it might be a case of changing it with the cam belt every 60,000 miles. Also I think I had better order a gasket for the manifold as you said it also needed cleaning.

[MR BILL]

Originally Posted by skyship007

OK so this does sound like a failed turbo and although as Baffler says there are a few turbo associated items to check before assuming you will need a reconditioned one or perhaps one from the breakers, if this is the original one then after 200,000 miles you are in effect near the life expectancy of the original turbo, unless you used a real good fully synthetic oil and Volvo filters every 6,000 miles and drove only nice long trips on the motorway without a heavy right boot.

Be very careful about a blown turbo causing a diesel run away and blowing up the engine by sucking oil past a turbo seal, because turning off the key will not shut the engine down. If it does happen then just jam it into gear asap, jump on the brakes and stall the engine or it will over rev itself to death in a huge cloud of white smoke.

Interesting comment:I drove it for 98000 miles with out ever cleaning it. the inlet manifold was clogged really bad all 8 holes were almost completely clogged up.

Good to read that because I was trying to figure out when to clean my EGR valve, so reading you did 98,000 before cleaning it is interesting, so it might be a case of changing it with the cam belt every 60,000 miles. Also I think I had better order a gasket for the manifold as you said it also needed cleaning.

Thanks for the advice on the turbo going mad i always thought what am i meant to do if it started reving like mad i actually thought you need to cut a hose for it to stall but i guess you learn something new daily. i have never used fully synthetic oil just semi hence the 5000 mile oil changes and yes it actually is the stock turbo! the manifold gasket was still in good condition so i used it again.

[MR BILL]

Originally Posted by Baffler

Greyish black smoke can be either over fuelling or lack of airflow.

Can you try swap out the turbo control solenoid with your mates one? It's located on the bulkhead, the one with vacuum hoses going to it.

Mate you are a diamond i got my mate over and was about to swap the tbc solenoid only to find it was'nt plugged in properly!!!!! plugged it in went for a test drive and wow i got my car back the way it was when i bought it. so thanky you very much mate and to all the rest of you.

[m1tch1987]

Originally Posted by MR BILL

Mate you are a diamond i got my mate over and was about to swap the tbc solenoid only to find it was'nt plugged in properly!!!!! plugged it in went for a test drive and wow i got my car back the way it was when i bought it. so thanky you very much mate and to all the rest of you.

Ah ha! that would make sense, the turbo is a VNT so is directly controlled by the ECU, so not having it plugged it would be a bad thing as the ECU would have no control over the turbo.

Glad you got it all sorted, very few things go wrong with the 1.9D engine (as long as its not in a French car)

[MR BILL]

Originally Posted by m1tch1987

Ah ha! that would make sense, the turbo is a VNT so is directly controlled by the ECU, so not having it plugged it would be a bad thing as the ECU would have no control over the turbo.

Glad you got it all sorted, very few things go wrong with the 1.9D engine (as long as its not in a French car)

Yep i could not agree any more these engines are just bulletproof only bad side is the suspension etc but i guess thats all down to driving style.

Since i have my car fixed i want to shorten the actuator rod to get more boost would i have to up the fuel pressure to or not?

[skyship007]

You should rush out and buy a lottery ticket, because your luck is definitely good today!!

I kind of figured the turbo was not working but thought the chance of a 200,000 mile one not being forked were low. About 99% of folks that start getting turbo trouble with high mileage cars have got something serious wrong, so you were real lucky Baffler gave the right advice on that one.

A good 5/40 semi synthetic oil with regular changes is nearly as good as a good fully synthetic oil, I only use the best oil because my car gets seriously abused with multiple cold starts and short trips.

One point about the comment made on diesel engine run aways is that trying to fiddle under the bonnet to stop the engine is dangerous and by the time you shove a rag in the air filter or do something similar the engine will already have been seriously damaged in most cases.
When a motor seizes the cooling system goes off bang in a big way and if you are leaning over the engine trying to block the intake or something, you could get badly burnt. One of the radiator hoses often blows off and the coolant gets blown out of the header tank or radiator cap, so stay well clear of an engine about to blow. I should know, because I got a fairly badly burnt arm in my youth playing with an overheated race engine.
Just remember if an engine does not stop when the key is turned off, slam it into gear and stall it. You tube has got some great clips of what happens if you don't do that.

[m1tch1987]

Originally Posted by MR BILL

Yep i could not agree any more these engines are just bulletproof only bad side is the suspension etc but i guess thats all down to driving style.

Since i have my car fixed i want to shorten the actuator rod to get more boost would i have to up the fuel pressure to or not?

Its a VNT turbo, its all controlled by the ECU, look at getting a 'king quick' box if you are intrested, or indeed a proper remap, you don't need to fettle with the actuator rod like many other turbo cars, just tell the ECU you want more boost lol