Slow...Slow...Slow... More RPM's But Nothing Much!

[SwedishInside]

RPM's going up but the car is still going slowly?

I feel like I have to constantly rev over 4000k just to get anywhere?

Going up a hill sucks also?

I have already had a full service, but its still the same.

I am looking into changing my camshaft postion sensor but some say if they start to fail your car just dies (which mine hasn't.....YET)

I have being trying injector cleaners from the website PowerEnhancer but still nothing.
I have also read it could be my clutch but I can't see a way of testing this?


Has anyone else got this problem? (Lack of power) Or I might have too much fuel in my engine (running rich)? I use fuel like a V8 uses fuel. Its daft. I spend more time at the petrol station than actual driving!

It sucks!

[Lancee]

Sounds like clutch.

[Chris_Rogers]

Check for fault codes on sockets A2 & A6

http://volvospeed.com/CheckEngine.php

I think if the clutch is slipping it would be obviuos, engine RPM will increase without a corresponding increase in road speed.

The problem won't be the camshaft position sensor, they either work or the car stops.

[Jod T5]

Originally Posted by SwedishInside

RPM's going up but the car is still going slowly?

I feel like I have to constantly rev over 4000k just to get anywhere?

Going up a hill sucks also?

I have already had a full service, but its still the same.

I am looking into changing my camshaft postion sensor but some say if they start to fail your car just dies (which mine hasn't.....YET)

I have being trying injector cleaners from the website PowerEnhancer but still nothing.
I have also read it could be my clutch but I can't see a way of testing this?


Has anyone else got this problem? (Lack of power) Or I might have too much fuel in my engine (running rich)? I use fuel like a V8 uses fuel. Its daft. I spend more time at the petrol station than actual driving!

It sucks!

I assume as part of your service the air filter was changed and the air path was checked for blockages...
You car is obviously using too much petrol and this is more than likely to be the reason it is running crap...
The reason why it is using too much petrol is because something is telling it to...
Your first thread, i remember was concerning the ECT sensor....What has been done with this?..This can cause serious overfueling...
What position does the needle on the temperature gauge reach..?
If i was in your shoes i would buy a 2 or 300 ohm resistor and replace the resistor for the sensor at the electrical plug..(make sure the car is warm when you do this)....

This will eliminate the ECT...

Jod

[SwedishInside]

Originally Posted by Jod T5

I assume as part of your service the air filter was changed and the air path was checked for blockages...
You car is obviously using too much petrol and this is more than likely to be the reason it is running crap...
The reason why it is using too much petrol is because something is telling it to...
Your first thread, i remember was concerning the ECT sensor....What has been done with this?..This can cause serious overfueling...
What position does the needle on the temperature gauge reach..?
If i was in your shoes i would buy a 2 or 300 ohm resistor and replace the resistor for the sensor at the electrical plug..(make sure the car is warm when you do this)....

This will eliminate the ECT...

Jod

The air filter was changed & no blockages...
Well the ECT sensor I havn't changed as it is in a really awkward location & I don't have that specific Torx bolt anyway. I did test the resistance from the ECT sensor and I did get a change in reading. I still have to test the sensor when the car is cold then when it is hot (I only tested the sensor first with only 3 mins idle time, so the engine was still quite cold which is why the resistance didn't change much the first time round - I'll do this tomorrow)
The temperature gauge goes from bottom to half way within in 5-10 min of driving normally. My radiator fan rarely turns on, infact I have only ever heard it turn on after driving really, really hard (6000k revs 1st, 2nd & 3rd gears).

If I do buy a resistor which would be best, 200 or 300 Ohms?
Does this trick the ECU in to thinking the car is hot. Also what happens when the engine is cold... do I remove the resistor then re-plug it back in when the engine is hot?

Thank Jod.

[Jod T5]

Originally Posted by SwedishInside

The air filter was changed & no blockages...
Well the ECT sensor I havn't changed as it is in a really awkward location & I don't have that specific Torx bolt anyway. I did test the resistance from the ECT sensor and I did get a change in reading. I still have to test the sensor when the car is cold then when it is hot (I only tested the sensor first with only 3 mins idle time, so the engine was still quite cold which is why the resistance didn't change much the first time round - I'll do this tomorrow)
The temperature gauge goes from bottom to half way within in 5-10 min of driving normally. My radiator fan rarely turns on, infact I have only ever heard it turn on after driving really, really hard (6000k revs 1st, 2nd & 3rd gears).

If I do buy a resistor which would be best, 200 or 300 Ohms?
Does this trick the ECU in to thinking the car is hot. Also what happens when the engine is cold... do I remove the resistor then re-plug it back in when the engine is hot?

Thank Jod.

TBH, your in car gauge seems to be working fine which would indicate the sensor is too...

Warm the car up first and when it is warm replace the ECT sensor with a 200 or 300 ohm resistor, it does not matter which for testing purposes...

See if it runs any different....

Jod

[SwedishInside]

Thanks.

300 Ohm Resistor:

[Jod T5]

Originally Posted by SwedishInside

Thanks.

300 Ohm Resistor:

Its been a while since i read the rings but that looks rather larger than a 300...
More like 30,000 ohm??....
Yellow ring should be brown i think...

Jod

[SwedishInside]

Umm, I'll have a look for the resistor in my local parts store.


Out of interest: My brother test drove my car the other day and said something is not right.
He said I am getting a little rev hang when I step off the throttle (revs drop down slowly) and a I'm getting a delay when pressing the accelerator pedal down (there must be about a 1 second delay when the accelerator is pressed to when the engine revs... It feels like a computer is holding it back).
I always presumed this was normal for a Volvo? I'm not sure now. Could there be a vaccum leak? Could it be the ECT causing this?

[Jod T5]

Originally Posted by SwedishInside

Umm, I'll have a look for the resistor in my local parts store.


Out of interest: My brother test drove my car the other day and said something is not right.
He said I am getting a little rev hang when I step off the throttle (revs drop down slowly) and a I'm getting a delay when pressing the accelerator pedal down (there must be about a 1 second delay when the accelerator is pressed to when the engine revs... It feels like a computer is holding it back).
I always presumed this was normal for a Volvo? I'm not sure now. Could there be a vaccum leak? Could it be the ECT causing this?

My experience of 850's is that they are all slow coming off the accelerator...You may gain some result lubing up the throttle linkage and cable..
A car that is overfueling will be a little slugish away, i would expect...
Sorry, i cant remember, have you got any other codes that 314?...

Jod