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Car dead and key fob stuck

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Old Dec 19th, 2021, 21:17   #1
Jdaugh
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Default Car dead and key fob stuck

Hi all. I hope someone can help. My wife has my 2010 V70 D5 150 miles away and she got i it this morning, it started, then stopped almost instantly. The power tailgate opened, hazards came on then all electrics died. Now there is no life at all and the key fob is stuck in the dashboard. She has tried connecting a spare battery, the breakdown people have been out and couldn't fix it, so it will be towed home. Can anyone suggest a possible cause or at least a way of releasing the fob? Thanks in advance
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Old Dec 20th, 2021, 12:03   #2
Ian21401
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I’m sorry that I cannot offer any solutions to your problem but can offer a little information.
My daughter has a 2011 XC70 D5 awd geartronic, bought used from our main dealer in 2017. Within a few months the key fob refused to eject from it’s slot and the gear selector lever was stuck in P. Fortunately the car had just been parked on our drive. The car is dealer serviced so Volvo Assist were called. They were able to remove the fob but could not assist further. The car was taken back to the dealer to be sorted. We were informed that the electric motor in the key fob insert and eject device had failed and a replacement had been fitted. This had cured the problem.
As your electrics have completely failed and that motor is electrical it will not be operating so will not release the fob until the whatever the electrical fault is is resolved.
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Old Dec 20th, 2021, 14:03   #3
Jdaugh
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Thanks Ian.
Since my original question, I have found that the battery is in perfectly good condition.
This is probably a stupid question but could someone tell me what that piece I have circled in the photo is? If I connect my battery booster at the battery connection itself, then I get nothing - no power at all. However, if I connect it to the right, on the cable side I can start the car and all electrics work! I would just like to know what it is before I start messing around with it! Thanks
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Old Dec 20th, 2021, 14:47   #4
Tony Rama
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I also didn't know what it is and wanted to find out, so after some trawling around it appears to be the battery main fuse and may be rated at 150A.
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Old Dec 20th, 2021, 15:19   #5
Jdaugh
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Thanks Tony. Do you know if it is replaceable, or is it a case of changing the whole cable?
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Old Dec 20th, 2021, 15:27   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Rama View Post
I also didn't know what it is and wanted to find out, so after some trawling around it appears to be the battery main fuse and may be rated at 150A.
Sorry, I do not know the answer but your hypothesis seems feasible.
When you have power as you describe, was it possible to extract that key from it’s slot?
Is that the +ve terminal?
So no power when connected to battery post side of that device but power when connected to other side of device. Suggests that device is the cause, BUT, more input from someone with more knowledge is definitely required.
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Old Dec 20th, 2021, 15:39   #7
Jdaugh
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Yes, the key ejected properly when power was connected. It is the +ve terminal. The whole cable looks a pain to replace (also difficult to find) Some other threads suggest bypassing with a fused wire or circuit breaker. Maybe that's what I'll have to do
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Old Dec 20th, 2021, 16:00   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdaugh View Post
Yes, the key ejected properly when power was connected. It is the +ve terminal. The whole cable looks a pain to replace (also difficult to find) Some other threads suggest bypassing with a fused wire or circuit breaker. Maybe that's what I'll have to do
If that is the fuse and it has blown, it begs the question WHY?
It should also be possible to change it without removing the whole cable
etc.
So is the car now home?
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Last edited by Ian21401; Dec 20th, 2021 at 16:07.
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Old Dec 20th, 2021, 17:57   #9
Tony Rama
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Originally Posted by Jdaugh View Post
Thanks Tony. Do you know if it is replaceable, or is it a case of changing the whole cable?
I'm new to Volvo so not very informed. It looks like it's an integral part of the cable. Seen some second hand on ebay. Would have to match up the part number. Otherwise, if you can confirm the fuse rating, a work around would be to buy a fuse for less than a fiver and find someone who can crimp it onto the existing cable.

There are experts on here who can give proper advice. Best wait for one to pick it up.
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Old Dec 20th, 2021, 18:05   #10
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Think you may have found your problem - the circled item.. If you connect a multimeter to each side of the circled item can you get continuity tone?? If no tone thats the problem, and you can move forward.


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