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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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940 supension clunkViews : 679 Replies : 13Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Dec 5th, 2017, 15:23 | #11 |
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Thanks for the guide, sounds daft but "C' on the diagram is the spaceship type? as for poly bushes, ive had a search but unable to find any, could you inlighten me as were to find them
edit that. found them. they look a bit different in poly
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Current Volvo 850 2.5 10V SE 1996 Volvo V70 2.5D 2000 Departed Volvo 850 T5 Turbo 'L94" 1994 Volvo 740 GLE 1990 Last edited by lightyears; Dec 5th, 2017 at 15:49. |
Dec 5th, 2017, 15:51 | #12 |
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You've got it, yes it's in the "C" part of the diagram.
Polybush don't seem to list 7/9xx models and the oldest seems to be the S/V Mk2 from 2004 on, however Superflex have a listing if you're sitting down : https://www.superflex.co.uk/proddeta...=SF420-1023KSS It's the full kit except the bolt and washers as far as i can see but £42 presumably plus P&P on top.
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Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
Dec 5th, 2017, 16:28 | #13 |
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Parts for volvo have a set of the same thing
http://www.partsforvolvosonline.com/...oducts_id=2318 enough for one car then. Thanks for all your advice. forgot to ask, is it a hard job to get the spaceships out. or is it a burn them out job.
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Current Volvo 850 2.5 10V SE 1996 Volvo V70 2.5D 2000 Departed Volvo 850 T5 Turbo 'L94" 1994 Volvo 740 GLE 1990 |
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Dec 5th, 2017, 17:48 | #14 |
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It's not a hard job but the bolt through the centre of them is quite tight and you will need a torque wrench to tighten the bolt.
Same goes for the radius arm to body bolt ("B" in the diagram) and the car should be resting on its wheels when you do the final tightening. Officially they should be re-tightened (crack 1/2 a turn then re-torque) a few hundred miles later - it's a good move to check they're tight and what i did was on the second tightening, removed the bolt through the spaceship bushes and applied Loctite Threadlock to the threads, just a few drops is enough then refitted and torqued it. Basic procedure : Loosen (about 1/4 turn) the front wheel nuts. Turn the steering to full lock on the side you're doing first. Loosen the control arm to radius arm bolt Loosen the radius arm to body bolt Straighten the steering Jack the car up on the side you're doing Remove the control to radius arms bolt Remove radius arm to body bolt Lever body end of radius arm down to allow removal Remove radius arm backwards, catching the bushes and washers, noting the sequence. Fit the rearmost washer and bush to the radius arm, locate radius arm through control arm, fit bush and washer followed by the bolt but only loosely at this stage. Refit the body end of the radius arm to the body and the bolt finger tight. Tighten the control arm to radius arm bolt finger tight. Refit the wheel, remove the jack and turn the steering to full lock as before. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque settings, tighten the wheel nuts to their torque settings (85Nm or 63lb/ft) Repeat for the other side Control arm to radius arm bolt 95Nm or70 lb/ft Radius arm to body M12 85Nm or 63 lb/ft or M14 140Nm or 103 lb/ft The M12 bolt will have a 19mm head and the M14 will have a 22mm head. If in doubt, measure the thread diameter for confirmation. The Haynes Book of Fantasy recommends new bolts for the radius arm (both ends) each time. The kit of bushes i bought came with new bolts and washers so were fitted.
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Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
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