Problem after fitting new engine mounts - Page 3

cheshired5 · Apr 27th, 2020, 16:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by TurboDiesel2006

Thank you for the advice. Will the engine run if No 1 multiway plug at the ECM is disconnected so I can measure the voltage across the pins 56 & 60 or can I remove the back of the plug? Previously I have measured it with ignition on only.

I don't know but right now, that isn't a test I'd be doing anyway.
Testing for a stable voltage across the ECT plug contacts would be my priority then I'd take it from there.
If the 5V drops out, further testing of each plug contact with a known good alternative live and ground would be next.

ECM 2000 can be signal too high or signal too low and Vida will show different possibilities for the cause depending on which precise code description you have.

TurboDiesel2006 · Apr 27th, 2020, 20:18

Ah I misunderstood I though you meant checking the ECM kept a stable voltage across pins 56 and 60.

I have previously put the multi-meter across the ECT terminals but I get 0 volts which is why I tested at the ECM and then the continuity of the wires and the resistance from ECM to ECT.

This evening I tested again and as before I was getting 5V at the ECM but nothing at the ECT connector. I then traced the cable back to the ECM and when I moved it I suddenly get 5V at the ECT. The engine then ran more smoothly, I cleared the codes, ECM-2000 was gone and on starting the engine immediately settled into a 700rpm idle. All of which is good but also bad because I now think there is a short or bad connection somewhere in the loom between the ECM and the ECT. (I had a similar problem before which I wrote up on this forum thinking that I had cleared it).

This seems potentially very difficult and/or expensive to fix. I don't know if I can get a new engine loom from Volvo or if I buy a second hand one will it be any better than my 14 year old loom. This is really annoying as I really like the car, structurally it is solid and I have invested recently in new tyres, front control arms, engine mounts, brake calipers and hoses. Not sure what to do next.

Tomoose · Apr 28th, 2020, 08:46

Well you've pinpointed the problem, excellent work, what a wonderful forum this is! Thank you to everyone who posted as this is a really good example of fault finding which will be viewed by many over the coming months and years.

The problem is more likely to be a connecter rather than a wire itself. Have a thorough visual inspection of the loom, is there any rubbing or splits, any fluid contamination, any signs of melting or burning? Is it routed correctly and in any clips and standoffs etc. correctly? Any obvious modifications or previous repairs?

Have a very careful look at the wiring connectors, does the wiring feel secure, are the sealing grommets in place, is there any exposed copper, is there any oxidation, do the pins feel secure etc.?

Replacing and re-terminating at the connectors is probably well within your capability, and there are lots of YouTube videos on how to do it. Alternatively it will be easy enough to source enough of a wiring loom from a scrap car which you can test on the bench and splice in if necessary.

Don't give up now!!

Thassos · May 5th, 2020, 18:57

Wiring problems could be vibration related, where the cable bundle rubs something or somethinglike the engine movement over time stresses the cable somewhere.. post a pic of the area where you found the movement seemed to fix the problem, also try using a mirror on a stick to get another view if its an area you cant easily view. As tomoose says you must be on the right track, generally the quality of cabling and connectors in volvos is good, but water and corrosion are often the culprits.. most things can be repaired with some care and heatshrink..

Clan · May 5th, 2020, 20:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by TurboDiesel2006

Ah I misunderstood I though you meant checking the ECM kept a stable voltage across pins 56 and 60.

I have previously put the multi-meter across the ECT terminals but I get 0 volts which is why I tested at the ECM and then the continuity of the wires and the resistance from ECM to ECT.

This evening I tested again and as before I was getting 5V at the ECM but nothing at the ECT connector. I then traced the cable back to the ECM and when I moved it I suddenly get 5V at the ECT. The engine then ran more smoothly, I cleared the codes, ECM-2000 was gone and on starting the engine immediately settled into a 700rpm idle. All of which is good but also bad because I now think there is a short or bad connection somewhere in the loom between the ECM and the ECT. (I had a similar problem before which I wrote up on this forum thinking that I had cleared it).

This seems potentially very difficult and/or expensive to fix. I don't know if I can get a new engine loom from Volvo or if I buy a second hand one will it be any better than my 14 year old loom. This is really annoying as I really like the car, structurally it is solid and I have invested recently in new tyres, front control arms, engine mounts, brake calipers and hoses. Not sure what to do next.

It is very likely the loom has rubbed through somewhere on it's way from the ECU to the TEMP sender . I've seen this fault a few times , a simple fix if you can check every inch of the loom on the front of the engine.

TurboDiesel2006 · May 9th, 2020, 16:02

The area where if I move it it momentarily resolves is where the loom goes under the MAF sensor to the front of the engine.

There are no obvious signs of wear from the outside. The outer corrugated black plastic sheath appears good and is still in one piece as are all the supporting clips. The loom is properly supported where it clips onto the air-intake adjacent the throttle body.

I have rolled back the mesh around the loom where it comes out of the connector and I can identify the twisted pair of thermostat wires. They look sound but I am reluctant to take the ECU connector apart.

I think I have probably reached the limit of my knowledge and ability with the tools I have so I am going to call an auto-electrician and ask him or her to look at it. I think this might be a case where an expert with the right tools could save me hours of work and frustration

I live in Suffolk if anybody has any recommendations for an auto-electrician. Otherwise it is google and yellow pages.

TurboDiesel2006 · May 31st, 2020, 17:32

I thought I would update on progress. I took the car to a local auto electrics specilaist and gave him all my test results.

He looked at loom under the MAF and found a slight break with a tiny amount of corrosion on one of the wires in the loom. Its looks to be pinched and has then broken the sheath. This was repaired and he then ran a seies of tests over the next 24 hours to see if the problem re-occurred and so far it hasn't. 'Touch wood' the temperature gauge now behaves itself, I'm not getting overheating messages, the cooling fan is not running at max all the time and the car starts and runs as normal. In fact with the new engine mounts it is smoother than it was before. I had noticed a significant (10%) drop in fuel consumption so I will be interested to see if that now improves.

Having found the fault the auto-electrician didn't trace the wire to its destination so I don't know if it was a ECT wire that was broken or another that was earthing out and causing the problem. Pleased that it is now running a whole lot better though.

TurboDiesel2006 · May 31st, 2020, 17:41

My photo upload failed as the file size was too large so here goes again...

barrybritcher · Jun 2nd, 2020, 11:59

what was the problem? those wires look freshly cut

TurboDiesel2006 · Jun 14th, 2020, 16:47

These were the pictures taken by the auto-electrician after he had cut out the corroded part of the wire.

It is three weeks now since he repaired the wire and 'touch wood' all has been ok. Fuel consumption has started to improve as well.

Apr 28th, 2020, 08:46	#23
Tomoose Member Last Online: Yesterday 23:22 Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: Edenbridge, Kent	Well you've pinpointed the problem, excellent work, what a wonderful forum this is! Thank you to everyone who posted as this is a really good example of fault finding which will be viewed by many over the coming months and years. The problem is more likely to be a connecter rather than a wire itself. Have a thorough visual inspection of the loom, is there any rubbing or splits, any fluid contamination, any signs of melting or burning? Is it routed correctly and in any clips and standoffs etc. correctly? Any obvious modifications or previous repairs? Have a very careful look at the wiring connectors, does the wiring feel secure, are the sealing grommets in place, is there any exposed copper, is there any oxidation, do the pins feel secure etc.? Replacing and re-terminating at the connectors is probably well within your capability, and there are lots of YouTube videos on how to do it. Alternatively it will be easy enough to source enough of a wiring loom from a scrap car which you can test on the bench and splice in if necessary. Don't give up now!! __________________ 2005 V70 T5 auto, 143k miles and counting. Gone but not forgotten: 2004/04 S60 D5 SE Mistral Green (now with my brother), 2004/54 V70 D5 SE in Ash Gold, 2006 V70 D5 185 Ruby Red. Last edited by Tomoose; Apr 28th, 2020 at 08:49.

May 5th, 2020, 18:57	#24
Thassos GoldMember Last Online: Yesterday 21:26 Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Kent, UK	loom Wiring problems could be vibration related, where the cable bundle rubs something or somethinglike the engine movement over time stresses the cable somewhere.. post a pic of the area where you found the movement seemed to fix the problem, also try using a mirror on a stick to get another view if its an area you cant easily view. As tomoose says you must be on the right track, generally the quality of cabling and connectors in volvos is good, but water and corrosion are often the culprits.. most things can be repaired with some care and heatshrink..

Jun 2nd, 2020, 11:59	#29
barrybritcher Flaccid Member Last Online: Apr 15th, 2024 16:09 Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Norwich	what was the problem? those wires look freshly cut __________________ 2001 Volvo S60 T5 SE 2.3 Geartronic (Scrapped) 2007 Volvo S60 T5 SE 2.4 Geartronic (Sold) 2008 Volvo V70 D5 SE Sport Geartronic (Current)

Apr 27th, 2020, 20:18	#22
TurboDiesel2006 V70 D5 185 Owner Last Online: Apr 15th, 2024 15:25 Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Ipswich	Ah I misunderstood I though you meant checking the ECM kept a stable voltage across pins 56 and 60. I have previously put the multi-meter across the ECT terminals but I get 0 volts which is why I tested at the ECM and then the continuity of the wires and the resistance from ECM to ECT. This evening I tested again and as before I was getting 5V at the ECM but nothing at the ECT connector. I then traced the cable back to the ECM and when I moved it I suddenly get 5V at the ECT. The engine then ran more smoothly, I cleared the codes, ECM-2000 was gone and on starting the engine immediately settled into a 700rpm idle. All of which is good but also bad because I now think there is a short or bad connection somewhere in the loom between the ECM and the ECT. (I had a similar problem before which I wrote up on this forum thinking that I had cleared it). This seems potentially very difficult and/or expensive to fix. I don't know if I can get a new engine loom from Volvo or if I buy a second hand one will it be any better than my 14 year old loom. This is really annoying as I really like the car, structurally it is solid and I have invested recently in new tyres, front control arms, engine mounts, brake calipers and hoses. Not sure what to do next.

May 9th, 2020, 16:02	#26
TurboDiesel2006 V70 D5 185 Owner Last Online: Apr 15th, 2024 15:25 Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Ipswich	The area where if I move it it momentarily resolves is where the loom goes under the MAF sensor to the front of the engine. There are no obvious signs of wear from the outside. The outer corrugated black plastic sheath appears good and is still in one piece as are all the supporting clips. The loom is properly supported where it clips onto the air-intake adjacent the throttle body. I have rolled back the mesh around the loom where it comes out of the connector and I can identify the twisted pair of thermostat wires. They look sound but I am reluctant to take the ECU connector apart. I think I have probably reached the limit of my knowledge and ability with the tools I have so I am going to call an auto-electrician and ask him or her to look at it. I think this might be a case where an expert with the right tools could save me hours of work and frustration I live in Suffolk if anybody has any recommendations for an auto-electrician. Otherwise it is google and yellow pages.

May 31st, 2020, 17:32	#27
TurboDiesel2006 V70 D5 185 Owner Last Online: Apr 15th, 2024 15:25 Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Ipswich	I thought I would update on progress. I took the car to a local auto electrics specilaist and gave him all my test results. He looked at loom under the MAF and found a slight break with a tiny amount of corrosion on one of the wires in the loom. Its looks to be pinched and has then broken the sheath. This was repaired and he then ran a seies of tests over the next 24 hours to see if the problem re-occurred and so far it hasn't. 'Touch wood' the temperature gauge now behaves itself, I'm not getting overheating messages, the cooling fan is not running at max all the time and the car starts and runs as normal. In fact with the new engine mounts it is smoother than it was before. I had noticed a significant (10%) drop in fuel consumption so I will be interested to see if that now improves. Having found the fault the auto-electrician didn't trace the wire to its destination so I don't know if it was a ECT wire that was broken or another that was earthing out and causing the problem. Pleased that it is now running a whole lot better though.

Jun 14th, 2020, 16:47	#30
TurboDiesel2006 V70 D5 185 Owner Last Online: Apr 15th, 2024 15:25 Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Ipswich	These were the pictures taken by the auto-electrician after he had cut out the corroded part of the wire. It is three weeks now since he repaired the wire and 'touch wood' all has been ok. Fuel consumption has started to improve as well.

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