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960 reservoir float sensor

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Old Aug 9th, 2020, 20:15   #1
jpliddy
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Default 960 reservoir float sensor

hi all
i have a spare 960 coolant reservoir the one with the hole in the bottom that take the probe to the float sensor i see the the sensor has 2 wires with the male fit twin fitting
can this be conectected into my standard coolant electrics some way to send a warning that the coolant level is low in my reservoir and possibly fit a sound sensor into the system
any advice most welcome
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Old Aug 9th, 2020, 21:37   #2
360beast
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Just a little information addition both the 97 and 98 940 I have have the float in the coolant tank with the fitting in the bottom, so I believe all coolant tanks have the float and fitting it just needs the sensor.

There is most likely a plug next to the coolant reservoir on the black plastic sheathing for the looms that plugs in to a false socket, both the 97 and 98 940 have this which I believe is for the coolant level sensor.

Last edited by 360beast; Aug 9th, 2020 at 23:40.
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Old Aug 9th, 2020, 22:03   #3
jpliddy
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Default coolant sensor

thanks luke
my car being a 1995 model diesel may have a different wiring set up as i have a
tempreture sensor at the front of the engine
its under the alternator so its a alternator off job that has 2 wires coming from it
but must link up to the tempreture gauge which does not work my reg is M617WJO if you have access to any electric drawing you might be able to guide me
regards jim
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Old Aug 10th, 2020, 00:12   #4
gpl1968
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The 940 never had the coolant level sensor fitted but the later 940s used the same coolant tank and instrument panel layout as the 960/S90/V90 that did.

There is an article here that takes you through the process of fitting one.

I fitted one some years ago with parts sourced from another forum member and it saved the engine on a number of occasions when a hose split or heater valve failed etc.

The easiest way is to use parts from a donor 960/S90/V90.
You need the connector that attaches to the reed switch sensor in the tank, which has two wires. One is the ground which goes down to an earth block behind the O/S lights and the other goes to the back of the instrument cluster.
You also need one of the crimped contacts extracted from an instrument panel connector (yours will have an empty bay) and a lamp and lamp holder for the warning light.

With these parts it is a fairly easy, although fiddly, job to fit and the result is this when you turn the ignition on:



If you shine a torch at your instrument panel you could probably see if it has the coolant lamp position (to the right of the ABS).
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Last edited by gpl1968; Aug 10th, 2020 at 00:15.
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Old Aug 10th, 2020, 00:19   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 360beast View Post
There is most likely a plug next to the coolant reservoir on the black plastic sheathing for the looms that plugs in to a false socket, both the 97 and 98 940 have this which I believe is for the coolant level sensor.
My 940 didn't have any wiring for the coolant lamp but it does have the alarm siren next to the coolant tank. If yours doesn't have the siren that may be the purpose for the spare connector.
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Old Aug 10th, 2020, 08:16   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gpl1968 View Post
My 940 didn't have any wiring for the coolant lamp but it does have the alarm siren next to the coolant tank. If yours doesn't have the siren that may be the purpose for the spare connector.
Mine has the siren in the cage under the washer bottle, the spare connector on both the 97 and 98 940 is a two pin connector where as the siren is about 4 pins.

Not a clue what it is for then if it isn't for the sensor.

Last edited by 360beast; Aug 10th, 2020 at 08:23.
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Old Aug 10th, 2020, 21:24   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gpl1968 View Post
The 940 never had the coolant level sensor fitted but the later 940s used the same coolant tank and instrument panel layout as the 960/S90/V90 that did.

There is an article here that takes you through the process of fitting one.

I fitted one some years ago with parts sourced from another forum member and it saved the engine on a number of occasions when a hose split or heater valve failed etc.

The easiest way is to use parts from a donor 960/S90/V90.
You need the connector that attaches to the reed switch sensor in the tank, which has two wires. One is the ground which goes down to an earth block behind the O/S lights and the other goes to the back of the instrument cluster.
You also need one of the crimped contacts extracted from an instrument panel connector (yours will have an empty bay) and a lamp and lamp holder for the warning light.

With these parts it is a fairly easy, although fiddly, job to fit and the result is this when you turn the ignition on:



If you shine a torch at your instrument panel you could probably see if it has the coolant lamp position (to the right of the ABS).
Adding to this, there's usually a "spare" bulb in the socket that's marked "SER-VICE" in the US models. If not, take one from the trailer indicator (if you don't tow anything), or the amber arrow (if you have a manual).

Cheers
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Old Aug 11th, 2020, 19:36   #8
jpliddy
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Default float sensor

thank you all for the input
got a bit of how to do this fix johnny90
there are the 2 wire float sensors on ebay i do have one its old with bared wires taped up but need to put a test on it can it be done with a multimeter and how?
so 1 wire goes to earth thats ok .but the other goes somehow to the spare dash lamp or LOW screen wash light but how is it connected to the bulb or have i got things wrong sorry . pretty sure there are no wires in place to do this job but again i don't honestly know .
regards jim
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Old Aug 11th, 2020, 19:43   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpliddy View Post
thank you all for the input
got a bit of how to do this fix johnny90
there are the 2 wire float sensors on ebay i do have one its old with bared wires taped up but need to put a test on it can it be done with a multimeter and how?
regards jim
Set your multimeter on continuity/diode test Jim (Concorde symbol with a line through i think you described it as) and touch the probes to each other - you should see 0.000 on the display and hear a high pitched buzzer indicating the meter is working and so are the probes.

Now put one probe on each bare wire from the level switch, in the normal upright position of the tank you should get continuity with it empty.
Now turn the tank upside down and retest - you shouldn't get continuity as this simulates the float being lifted by the coolant.

If you can wrap the bare wire ends round your probe tips you can turn the tank upside down and back to the right way up to prove the float is moving and by doing this you should get an on-off-on response from the meter as you turn it from normal to upside down and back again.

As for the wiring of the bulb, others have already started on that so rather than try and add to that which could cause confusion, i'll let them finish it. If they don't, give me a shout and i'll try to pick up where they left off.
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Old Aug 11th, 2020, 19:44   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpliddy View Post
thank you all for the input
got a bit of how to do this fix johnny90
there are the 2 wire float sensors on ebay i do have one its old with bared wires taped up but need to put a test on it can it be done with a multimeter and how?
so 1 wire goes to earth thats ok .but the other goes somehow to the spare dash lamp or LOW screen wash light but how is it connected to the bulb or have i got things wrong sorry . pretty sure there are no wires in place to do this job but again i don't honestly know .
regards jim
There won’t be any existing wires so you’ll have to thread it through the engine bay, through a gromit in the firewall and up to the back of the dash.
There’s a link further up the thread to a instructional thread. Well worth reading through and understanding what you need to do before you start work 👍
You’ll need to hardwire in the wire from the sensor to the back of the dials in the correct location and fit a bulb in the correct socket (from places I’ve mentioned previously).

Cheers
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