New to me 940

[sam1]

Comparison part badly worded by me... i was in no way expecting the 940 to be anything close to either car ha ha... 😅🤦
Either way i think its down on power likely fuel supply issue i feel.
Ok cool. I usually always go castrol for engine oil, luckily it only takes 3.8L or there abouts 😁

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by sam1

Comparison part badly worded by me... i was in no way expecting the 940 to be anything close to either car ha ha... 😅🤦
Either way i think its down on power likely fuel supply issue i feel.
Ok cool. I usually always go castrol for engine oil, luckily it only takes 3.8L or there abouts 😁

They were never that lively even when new, 0-60 in about 11-12 seconds if you're brutal.
Super V8 Jag is about half that. Makes a big difference!

It could be down on power due to fuel flow but you'd get an idea if it was as the engine management light would come on. What gap did you set the plugs to?

[sam1]

I just chucked the new plugs in, I'll check them when i can use dads feeler gauges.

Did the fuel pumps the other day, not too bad of a job. Got a new seal from Volvo went in lovely. The old one was like new. Not really any junk in the fuel tank too which was good.

Ordered some new tyres continental eco 6 or something 185 65 15. Being fitted Tuesday

Just read the fault codes, on probe 6 got a 1-1-1 which was great news, on probe 2 got a 2-3-2 and 3-1-1 which I've read is possible oxygen sensor faulty and no speedo readout (speedo not working)

So making progress.

I need to drive it 3 hours to work on Thursday so wish me luck!!

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by sam1

I just chucked the new plugs in, I'll check them when i can use dads feeler gauges.

Did the fuel pumps the other day, not too bad of a job. Got a new seal from Volvo went in lovely. The old one was like new. Not really any junk in the fuel tank too which was good.

Ordered some new tyres continental eco 6 or something 185 65 15. Being fitted Tuesday

Just read the fault codes, on probe 6 got a 1-1-1 which was great news, on probe 2 got a 2-3-2 and 3-1-1 which I've read is possible oxygen sensor faulty and no speedo readout (speedo not working)

So making progress.

I need to drive it 3 hours to work on Thursday so wish me luck!!

Good luck and before you drive it, pull fuse #1 for about 30 seconds and refit. After your trip to work, check the codes again and see what you've got. It sounds as if you have a faulty Lambda sensor there among other things.

[sam1]

Did some test drives today, think I had a misfire as one plug lead wasn't seated properly may have caused one of the codes as I cleared it and it hasn't reappeared.

Took a wheel off to inspect the brakes, front discs were down to about 18mm and rear pads were non existent so new discs and pads all round...

Otherwise it drives OK. I think the in-tank fuel pump made a difference as it has a bit more go. 50mph is about 2000rpm and 60mph is just under 2500rpm. 2000rpm in 4th is about 40mph. so i figure i have a 3.73 rear end for anyone that is still awake

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by sam1

Did some test drives today, think I had a misfire as one plug lead wasn't seated properly may have caused one of the codes as I cleared it and it hasn't reappeared.

Took a wheel off to inspect the brakes, front discs were down to about 18mm and rear pads were non existent so new discs and pads all round...

Otherwise it drives OK. I think the in-tank fuel pump made a difference as it has a bit more go. 50mph is about 2000rpm and 60mph is just under 2500rpm. 2000rpm in 4th is about 40mph. so i figure i have a 3.73 rear end for anyone that is still awake

I'm confused by your measurements on the brakes! The discs should be 18, 22 or possibly 26mm thick, depending on the model. The pads should have a minimum of 3mm of friction material, front or back. Note the rear discs usually aren't vented and are usually about 10mm thick but i'd need to check the exact figure.

As for your back axle, it's probably a 3.91:1 diff and your speedo is probably reading anything up to 10% fast (possibly more if it's an older, higher mileage) so it's not an ideal way of working out the diff ratio. Much easier to look at the label on the left hand side of the back axle, assuming it's still on there. Alternatively, jack the back end up so the wheels are free to turn, put the gearbox into N and make a mark with Tipp-Ex in the diff input flange. Now get an assistant to turn one of the wheels while you count the propshaft turns - one turn of the wheel will give 3.91, 3.73 or 3.54 turns of the prop/diff input flange.

[360beast]

The sticker is very rarely there anymore Dave, however everyone says the left hand side and the only one I have actually found left on the car is on the right hand side!

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by 360beast

The sticker is very rarely there anymore Dave, however everyone says the left hand side and the only one I have actually found left on the car is on the right hand side!

I know you've seen at least one with the sticker on the left Luke!

[jonnyf90]

Originally Posted by griston64

+ 1 For the Bouirgicord leads. The Bosch ones that were on my 940 when I got it fell apart

This. Bourgicourd HT leads seem to be one automotive item the French made in the 90s that's actually half decent

Cheers

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by jonnyf90

This. Bourgicourd HT leads seem to be one automotive item the French made in the 90s that's actually half decent

Cheers

I totally agree, almost every French electrical product i've ever encountered whether automotive, industrial, commercial, marine or domestic has been horrendously poor. As for French cars