New to me 940

[sam1]

Thanks everyone.

Lairdscooby - thanks ordered those 2 items 👍. Coolant just took their advice on recommendation. I've done in tank pumps on my jag xjr, which is currently for sale on Ebay, and was not the most fun job so i figure i roughly know what I'm in for. Hopefully it'll be easier on the volvo.

360besst- ha ha either that or I'm an idiot throwing money at old stuff I've bought cheap!!! Thats what friends and family think 😅😅😁. I'm looking forward to it the ultimate reliable car. Famous last words 😃.
It has the sunroof how much would you be asking?

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by sam1

Thanks everyone.

Lairdscooby - thanks ordered those 2 items 👍. Coolant just took their advice on recommendation.

In that case, take back what they recommended and exchange it for a good quality, concentrated Ethylene Glycol Antifreeze. NOTHING ELSE!!!!!

Chances are they recommended OAT coolant, it's no good for almost everything before 2000 because it rots the gaskets and secondly, no good for engines with cast iron components as it corrodes the cast iron faster than ethylene glycol corrodes aluminium.

Also if the system isn't meticulously flushed, emptied and flushed again (and even then you're taking a chance) the acid in the OAT coolant causes the silicates in the original ehtylene glycol to precipitate out and form a silione gel that plugs all the coolant channels - everywhere!

End result is whatever has coolant in is scrap including (but not limited to) the engine, coolant hoses, radiator, heater matrix, turbo (if water cooled, most are), oil cooler.

[360beast]

Like Dave says make sure that it isn't OAT or you will ruin everything in the engine bay.

I will check the condition of the headlining for you first.

Regards
Luke

[sam1]

Ok i've called them and they confirmed it is ethylene glycol anifreeze - said its the green stuff? ill find out when i collect all the parts tomorrow morning when it has all been delivered to them. i think i read it off the haynes manual when i ordered it and they suggested something and i said yeah fine ...! ill be sure to post a picture before i put it in!! ill flush the system with water a few times first. i think it has blue stuff in it currently. no idea what it is or how long its been in there - pretty much the story for the whole car!! including the questionable stains on the back seats!! but the local dry cleaners has a carpet cleaner i can hire for pennies!!

thanks both

[TonyS9]

Its quite likely this parts list will not make any difference to the running, but if its over 150K miles adding new fuel pumps will hopefully add reliability, although I would tend to just let them fail and hold onto the parts as spares, the original Bosch factory parts are usually better than anything aftermarket and you can usually coax them back to life when they first fail, with a thump.

Plugs and leads are usually worth doing on a neglected car, but the coil isn't a service item and I've never heard of one failing in these. The ignition amp is more likely to fail, but its only a small failure rate.

Other things that can cause problems are
-seals in the distributor, very hard to change and need special tooling. New distributors when they were available were £300. Just causes a slight hestitation usually.
-Fuel pump relay (probably good to have a spare in the car, they are a long term consumable)
-Injector (radio suppression) relay
-Fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail
-Brake slider pins

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by sam1

Ok i've called them and they confirmed it is ethylene glycol anifreeze - said its the green stuff? ill find out when i collect all the parts tomorrow morning when it has all been delivered to them. i think i read it off the haynes manual when i ordered it and they suggested something and i said yeah fine ...! ill be sure to post a picture before i put it in!! ill flush the system with water a few times first. i think it has blue stuff in it currently. no idea what it is or how long its been in there - pretty much the story for the whole car!! including the questionable stains on the back seats!! but the local dry cleaners has a carpet cleaner i can hire for pennies!!

thanks both

A good way to flush the cooling system is to remove the 'stat housing, pull the 'stat out and refit the housing. Remove the bottom hose and catch the old coolant ready for disposal.
Refit the bottom hose, remove the top hose from the radiator stub and insert your garden hose into the top hose - should fit snugly if you have a hozelock style fitting on your garden hose. Make sure the heater temperature setting is on hot if it's a manual heater and then turn the hose on. Go and have a coffee, come back and make sure it's running clear from the radiator stub..

If so, refit the 'stat and then add something like Comma Xstream Flush or similar heavy duty cooling system flush after tightening all hose clips etc. Drive the car to get it hot then park it overnight. Next morning, remove the 'stat housing and 'stat, refit the housing and flush it as previously described. Once it's done, give the expansion tank a through flush out as well.

Turn the garden hose off, remove bottom hose from the rad and let the remaining water drain out, refitting the bottom hose after.

Pour 4.5L of the antifreeze into the expansion tank. THis will find its way to the lowest part of the cooling system. Refit the 'stat (now would be a good time to fit a new one if you're planning it, worth doing every couple of years anyway), refit the housing and top hose on the rad then top up with water.

Run the engine up to temperature preferably with the car facing uphill. Let it cool down for an hour or two and top up with water. Take it for a drive and get it up to temperature, return home and park, preferably facing uphill again.

Check the level the next morning before using it, top up with water if needed - you already have enough antifreeze in the system for the correct dilution so it only needs water.

Save the other half litre of antifreeze in case you need to top up for any reason but other than that, you shouldn't need to worry about the coolant for a couple of years.

[taiwan740]

That's odd, ethylene glycol corrodes aluminium?

My 960 is running ethylene glycol coolant on its white block, it specifies that in the manual ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

25 years later the engine is still there so I guess must be ok

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by taiwan740

That's odd, ethylene glycol corrodes aluminium?

My 960 is running ethylene glycol coolant on its white block, it specifies that in the manual ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

25 years later the engine is still there so I guess must be ok

It does but much slower than OAT corrodes cast iron. The Japanese developed OAT coolant in the late 90s as all their engines (with a few exceptions) were cast aluminium by then and the EG was corroding them. However the acid ate into the traditional gaskets so they had to create new gaskets. As such, any engine, even all-aluminium engines before 2000 should still have EG as they won't have the gaskets to cope with OAT so running your 960 on EG is the right thing to do.

[sam1]

Hi all and thanks again for your advice. Got on with some of the work today.

-air filter
-oil
-oil filter
-plugs
-leads
-distributor cap
-rotor arm
-coil

I'll keep all the old bits in the boot as spares.

Inspected the MAF and the downstream gauze was half hanging off so I probably need a new maf dont fancy that falling off into the intake.

Inside the distributor cap was slightly oily, very dirty and the contacts were pretty bad as was the rotor arm. I was surprised it was still running.

As to be expected not much different going along the road for a quick test drive, still lacking power as before but maybe not as bad, after 3000rpm. Maybe i am too used to my wifes turbo diesel or my supercharged jag i have had to sell. Idle was smoother , low revs seemed to have more pull.

Speedo decided to work for approximately 0.6 of a mile but dropped out whenever i pressed the clutch in - weird. Then completely stopped working again haha...

I have not yet tried to read the codes, want to get all the new bits on.

Got big fuel tank seal from volvo.

I put 10-30 oil in and feel there may be more valvetrain noise than there was before so may go to 15-40 or something. Its done 173k after all, maybe more who knows.

Have a good weekend

[Laird Scooby]

Comparing a 740 to a supercharged Jag is a bit unfair. On one hand you've got ~450bhp in just under 2 tons, on the other you've got 130bhp in just under 1.5 tons. The Volvo is also giving away 1.7L and 4 cylinders, plus a supercharger.

As for the engine oil, 10W30 is too thin really. The usual is 10W40 semi-synth, good quality one but not stupidly expensive. If that proves too thin still, 15W40 or 15W50 or if you still think it's too thin, 20W50.