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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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P1800s starting issueViews : 3257 Replies : 27Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Nov 27th, 2020, 10:26 | #11 | |
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Any 12V electric pump of low (~4psi) pressure and sufficient flow should do the job. You can find a piece of 6mm thick steel plate and use a gasket as a template to make a blanking plate for your old pump.
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Nov 27th, 2020, 10:29 | #12 |
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If I leave my Amazon Estate for a few weeks it always takes about 20 seconds of churning to get it to start. I have accepted this as normal. I think others will have a similar story. It does prefer full choke for this initial start but you can quickly juggle it back to about half for a few minutes. It's important to have the first fraction of choke adjusted to give you an increased 150 or so revs but with the jets fully back up. That helps driveability for the first couple of miles from cold. This choke setting is covered in the manuals but often not done properly.
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Nov 27th, 2020, 11:04 | #13 |
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Have you got a heat shield fitted under the carbs and how old is your fuel pump? Worth checking your fuel connections and lines as well, maybe a wee leak somewhere. You could also add a later model starter which turns over faster.
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Nov 27th, 2020, 11:32 | #14 |
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I've highlighted the bit that has been mentioned by several of us. Still waiting on a response on the age of the pump, it was renewed but we don't know how long ago.
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Nov 27th, 2020, 13:36 | #15 |
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If you have SU carbs, you want an electric fuel pump that delivers fuel at a low pressure. You might consider an AIRTEX E8016S fuel pump with a 2.5 to 4.5 psi and 30 gph flow rate. I run one on my MGA. Or Google "E8016S" and many generic alternative brands will come up. They run about $25.00 US. Facet also makes a low pressure electric pump, but at about $85.00 US.
On my Volvo (PV444), I have an electric pump tied in series with the mechanical fuel pump. I didn't install it, so I don't know what specific pump. But from the ticking, I suspect one of the generic brands similar to my Airtex. It is installed in the engine bay, not at the tank. My experience with the SU carbs is that the fuel does evaporate from the float bowls. With the electric pump, it is ticking all of the time, but you can hear the sound be muffled as the line / carbs fill(s) up with fuel. When I start the car, I wait for that slight change in sound before I try to engage the starter. In the November 2020 issue of Classic Motorsports tech tips, they described using a outboard motor primer bulb because the side draft Webber carburetors would lose their prime - which I think is a more serious issue than just a slow prime. Apparently they won't self prime once they have lost prime. They put the primer bulb in the trunk of their Lotus Elan, and if the car has sat for a few days, they start by opening the trunk and giving the bulb a few squeezes to prime the carbs. From my own boating experience, the primer bulb needs to be squeezed until firm. Last edited by blueosprey90; Nov 27th, 2020 at 13:46. |
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Nov 27th, 2020, 13:50 | #16 |
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Just one other thing Paul, does the choke work on both carbs and does it pull down the jet tubes all the way?
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Nov 27th, 2020, 13:51 | #17 |
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Paul,
What you describe I think is quite normal. My 1800S is very similar. If left for a month the engine has to crank for up to 40 seconds to fire. If left for only a couple of days, will start immediately. I don't mind the car churning for up to 40 seconds when left standing for a month or more, as this gives some time for oil to be splashed around lubricating engine internals at cranking speed for this time. |
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Nov 27th, 2020, 14:06 | #18 | |
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Once it's fired up its fine. Fuels running back. Going to fit a non return valve in the fuel line.. Many thanks Paul |
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Nov 27th, 2020, 14:08 | #19 |
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Nov 27th, 2020, 15:21 | #20 |
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Just saying ^^^^^
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