Brakes: cable replacement time

[dizzy1point6]

I currently have the centre console removed to allow me proper adjustment of the lever following my installation of new rear pads and discs.
I see that the cable for the n/s pulls up farther than the o/s. Also I note that when applying and releasing the handbrake - the n/s cable is not moving smoothly. There is a fleeting sideways "jolt" to the movement at about the halfway point. I fancy that there is probably a kink or fray in the cable. It may be stretched too.
I have searched the forum but am unable to find a "how-to" for cable replacement. Have I overlooked an existing guide and if not can anyone advise on the sequence or methodology?
I suppose that it's best to change the cables as a pair?
Is it inners and outers together that get changed?
For what I've read here, the rear /hand brakes are "high maintenance" on these models, and as I aim to get the best out of my brakes from now on I am prepared to do whatever work is required. This will be my first ever cable replacement, although I have done plenty of other DIY service items.

[dizzy1point6]

Thanks to all who read my request for advice on this topic.
Help was very sparse and so I thought I should try to help others who may encounter the need to do this service, should I succeed in it.
I have managed to carry out the task and take a few pictures along the way.

(As a newbee and luddite, I could only manage to get my pics etc uploaded to Flickr. Apologies for my lack of IT competence).

Pictures and my comments are to be found on:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1656961...7633413295791/

There is the remote possibility this link won't work for all PC's. I can be PM'd at mrdks@hotmail.co.uk should this be helpful.

BTW , cable cost £16.95+vat new from local motorfactors, but wasn't 100% perfect. I noticed damage to rubber outer, which I sealed over okay, and I had to re-use some mountings from the old cable.

[JClaude]

Hello dizzy1point6,

Congratulations for your very helpfull "How to" with a lot of very good pictures.

I also should try to do this next because the handbrake lever becomes harder and harder.

My question is: what really was the problem? Rusty cable in the duct?

I thought there also could be a problem in the caliper mechanic (eccentric) parts for handbrake?


Many thanks,


Jean-Claude

[dizzy1point6]

Hi Jean-Claude, thank you for your comments.
Your question is a very good one and pertinent to my experience too.
Like you, I was sure my problem was with dirt in my cable, or something similar, but once I removed it I was unable to find any really significant problems with it!

Now as I said originally, the inner cable was stretched and had irregular movement when the handbrake was applied, so a change was in order anyway.
BUT.. even after a new cable was fitted, there seemed still to be some contributing residual problem in the caliper itself.

Therefore, still not being entirely satisfied with the caliper operation, I have done some cleaning of the caliper itself.
I have thrown together a brief summary here:- http://www.flickr.com/photos/1656961...7633420865741/

I had not planned to do this otherwise I would have replaced the inner seal and rubber outer boot. However, at this very minute, the brake is working fine again and I hope I have not disturbed the caliper too much that it will leak in the future.
Why is it finally working fine now? I think that cleaning away the deposits in the caliper and removing the only tiny but deep pitted rust spot is the repair that made the decisive difference. It was a simple task and seemed unremarkable and routine, yet the brake is working properly as a result. I am sure both the new cable fitted and the caliper cleaning had to be completed in order to resolve the problem of the caliper not releasing properly. I had of course tried simply oiling the caliper. I can only surmise that my vehicle had been stationery for too long in it's past, some time ago, allowing moisture which had formed inside the caliper to gather at the bottom of the caliper to cause the very localised rust spot to form on the piston body.

[JClaude]

Hello dizzy1point6,

Thank you for your answer and the new pictures!

"the inner cable was stretched and had irregular movement" I think that has more to do with the caliper mecanism part for the handbrake (eccentric) that is sticking.

I am going to change the rear pads in autumn so I wil clean and check everything in the caliper as you did. If the handbrake work smoothly I will let the cable as it is.

I don't know if you saw this doc here:

http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/S40MY2005-Brakes.pdf#search="s40my2005-brakes.pdf"

There is a detailled drawing of the rear caliper.


Jean-Claude

[dizzy1point6]

Yes, JClaude, I think you have the best approach. I would recommend that the piston and caliper are inspected/serviced BEFORE replacing the handbrake cable.
I think the brakes would continue to work okay with one cable stretched, (within limits of course). Given the average age of a V40 now is probably 11 years, i think that metal corrosion and deterioration of the rubber components on the internals of the braking system are becoming more and more of a problem.
Pad change should be straight-forward and inexpensive, you should do it sooner rather than risk damage to the rear discs, unless you are scheduling them for replacement also.

Thanks for the very detailed PDF of the brake system. It comprehensively covers the design and operation of the entire system, but I found it wasn't very D-I-Y orientated in a hands-on way.