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Cost of Clutch Replacement

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Old Mar 19th, 2010, 18:07   #1
GreenJack
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Default Cost of Clutch Replacement

Hi, Everyone.

My clutch just went out. Does anyone know what the cost range is to have a mechanic replace the clutch on 97 Volvo 850?
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Old Mar 19th, 2010, 20:00   #2
ShadeTek
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In the range of £300-£400 ish. It is a big job.
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Old Mar 19th, 2010, 21:11   #3
Clan
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yes a big job , certainly no Fiesta ...6 hours labour is needed and say £200 for clutch and £100 hydraulic slave cylinder , + VAT more like £800 - £1000
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Old Mar 19th, 2010, 23:17   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clan View Post
yes a big job , certainly no Fiesta ...6 hours labour is needed and say £200 for clutch and £100 hydraulic slave cylinder , + VAT more like £800 - £1000
Not far off on that - had mine done a month ago - mine had a new dual mass flywheel as well which added £350 - but most of the labour is getting the box off and back on again - so even at £45 an hour for labour it ain't cheap.

I think the list of parts should include:
Clutch fluid £6
Gearbox oil £20
Clutch £200 (Volvo-Rufe)
Slave cylinder £100 (Volvo-Rufe)
Slave cylinder pipe £20 (Volvo Dealer)
May need a couple of oil seals £40 so in total about £390 +Vat = £460
Labour - say 8 hours @ £45 = £360 +VAT = £425
Total of £885.

Don't know if flywheel on yours is dual mass but my garage recommended replacement - and even gave me the old one so I could see the state it was in after 90k which was £326 (Volvo one £600 ish) = £385 inc VAT

Hope that helps
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Old Mar 19th, 2010, 23:39   #5
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the labour time for a d5 is approx 5.5 hours which takes longer than an n/a 850 5.2 hours or a turbo approx 6 hours,but if a garage only charges £45 per hour you could let that go as the garage I used to work for charged £115 per hour !

shame the techs only got £8 hour !
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Old Mar 20th, 2010, 01:20   #6
pigfight
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hi red,
are you certain its the clutch?
only asking as i thought mine was on its way out cause the revs and boost guage were going nuts at around 3000 rpm as though the clutch was slipping, it turned out to be my waste gate actuator rod was wound up to tight, and it was spikeing!!
1 sure way of testing your clutch is to see if you can pull off from a standstill in 3rd or 4th gear, get the revs up (you'l feel when its right) and let the clutch pedal go, if you manage to pull off then it is fine, if it stalls, sorry to say.....probably the clutch!!
hth
let us know how you go on,
regards,
david.
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Old Mar 20th, 2010, 11:47   #7
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I had mine done recently. Total bill inc VAT was £590. 850 10v 2.5 Estate. Local garage, not main dealer. They also unseized a track rod end and did the tracking and replaced a driveshaft gaiter at the same time. Its a big job. They removed the entire front subframe for access to the gearbox. I was expecting a bill for around £500 is, so I was quite pleased when I went to collect the car and found it was close to their estimate, and with extra jobs done as well.
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Old Mar 27th, 2010, 15:32   #8
Nicks 850 broke!
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Default 850 Clutch Change and Tracking

I note Crowfields reference to the track rod and tracking - make sure the tracking is done and right when you get it back - I had a dealer do clutch on 850 some time ago and tyres fitted a couple of thousand miles previously (and good tread measured and recorded by dealer at the clutch change as part of service) were through the tread 1000 miles later. The steering and subframe are dropped to do the clutch and must go back right! I had the tracking checked by Kwik-Fit when the tyres were bald and they found it way out. I got credit from the dealer to the full price of the tyres when I proved they'd done it using new tyre tread spec, their numbers from the service, and photos 1000 miles later. Would rather not have had to - check with the garage they are going to disturb the steering and make sure the tracking's done!

Nick
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Old Jan 6th, 2012, 10:31   #9
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Hi pigfight

I just read this post of yours - I think I might have my clutch on its way out, but want to be sure that it IS it, before I make a move on it: I recently read some literature on a clutch manufacturer’s website (under their clutch slip section) that if you CAN pull away in 3rd or 4th gear, the clutch IS worn, which is opposite to what you say below. I done this test yesterday and my car pulls off quite easily from 3rd or 4th gear. Bad news, it seems…? So which is correct?

Also, my clutch slips intermittently, especially when engine is revving high: so is my clutch on the way out?

Thanks very much.



Quote:
Originally Posted by pigfight View Post
hi red,
are you certain its the clutch?
only asking as i thought mine was on its way out cause the revs and boost guage were going nuts at around 3000 rpm as though the clutch was slipping, it turned out to be my waste gate actuator rod was wound up to tight, and it was spikeing!!
1 sure way of testing your clutch is to see if you can pull off from a standstill in 3rd or 4th gear, get the revs up (you'l feel when its right) and let the clutch pedal go, if you manage to pull off then it is fine, if it stalls, sorry to say.....probably the clutch!!
hth
let us know how you go on,
regards,
david.
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Old Jan 6th, 2012, 15:15   #10
bigrotch
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hi mate they can be intermidiate myne is more under heavy boost it will slip, you can here it rev up with no but no acelartion then it will get grip etc i can here my slave cylinder when i pull away aswell so myne has deffo had it..they vary from car to car if u replace it and u are thinking of mods later on put the 850R clutch in saves alot of hassel later on
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