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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars

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rear clunk

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Old Oct 21st, 2019, 09:43   #11
CAmazon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleek lemur View Post
Hi C, Welcome!

The problem with my 1800E was the rubber carrier at the centre join of the propshaft. It was a little sloppy, meaning the propshaft was occasionally bashing the lower side of the tunnel through which it travels. Looking at the rear gearbox rubber mount, the design of this does not offer much vertical support, meaning that quote a lot of strain is placed on that central carrier.

Parts are all available from Brookhouse. I'm also a new owner and I've been very pleased with price and availability of parts and also service from Brookhouse.
I actually ordered the propshaft rubber but I don't think there is the oe bracket for it to for into?
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Old Oct 21st, 2019, 09:47   #12
sleek lemur
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Have you spoken to Simon at Brookhouse?
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Old Oct 21st, 2019, 13:19   #13
Derek UK
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The early mount that you have uses the 2 circular rubbers and not the later type which has a rubber diaphragm with the bearing in. When you changed back to the M40 you had to use the matching longer front prop shaft. The transmission cross members are the same but you have to use a different rubber mount. If you used the one that was with the M41 it's possible that this has moved the M40 enough to give you the difference you've pictured. This is speculation as I don't know if it would do this. I would also guess that the engine mount rubbers would also show a bit distortion if this is happening. The cross member has some adjustment at the mounting bolts but that is originally for sideways movement only and helps you to align the bolts. These holes may have become enlarged over time and may also give you a bit of movement. Replace the mounting rubber if wrong. Loosen the crossmember mounts and see if you can move the M40 a bit to help the fit of the pins. Update us.

A comment about the later rubber bearing mount. It may look OK when you are under the car but the cracks can hide themselves well and may only show when you drop the prop and inspect it properly. The bearing may also seem smooth and easy turning but if you compare it to a new one it will often be a bit stiff and less smooth. If you do drop the prop, replacing both the diaphragm and bearing isn't a big expense. Unless you like working under the car with your nose brushing the floor pan or you have a nice lift available the few pounds spent is worth the hassle of doing it again in the near future.
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Old Jul 25th, 2020, 22:14   #14
sleek lemur
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Default Clunk when pulling away

To add to the list of things to check:

Some previous owner had replaced the clevis pin which links the lateral rod from the handbrake handle with the long threat adjuster with a nut and bolt, thereby stiffening what should be a free joint. This was causing the handbrake to stick. The consequent release on acceleration made a clunk. it took me ages to discover this, as reversing the car before setting off would free the handbrake. Only became really apparent when I happened to adjust the handbrake and I noted a smell of brakes from the back after parking.

It's such an obvious bodge that it might be worth taking a look at your car to make sure to haven't also been a victim!
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Old Jul 26th, 2020, 14:24   #15
Ron Kwas
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SL;

I'm having trouble picturing this from your description...is it possible to post a pic or two...

Thanks
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Old Jul 26th, 2020, 19:17   #16
sleek lemur
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Yup, will do, Ron. Need to measure hole for clevis pin.
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Old Jul 26th, 2020, 23:37   #17
Derek UK
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If you can't get the real thing you can make a clevis from a suitably sized plain shank bolt. Drill it through for a split pin. Add a washer or two to make it snug but easy moving. Grease well.
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Old Jul 27th, 2020, 10:45   #18
sleek lemur
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Ooh what a good idea, though have found a good source of the correct pins. Besides, I strive for 100% originality (joke...).
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Old Jul 28th, 2020, 13:14   #19
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Default Handbrake link pics

Handbrake 1.jpg

Handbrake 2.jpg

Hello Ron, Here are the pics of the handbrake linkage. The first one is where the clevis pin had been replaced by a bolt, which was causing the handbrake to stick.

The second one is the plastic wheel which splits the handbrake cable. You can see that there is the correct pin in this unit. I was cruising Volvo ads the other day and in a photo of a VERY expensive 1800 for sale, you could see that this spin had been replaced with a bolt.

Never ceases to amaze me how the mis-replacement of such a simple item can have such a profound effect on a vehicle.
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Old Jul 28th, 2020, 14:26   #20
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SL;

Thanks for pix!...now I've got it! ...I guess if the pin was worn, damaged or even lost, it could be replaced by a (hardened) bolt of appropriate size, with nut, but knowing that joint must allow the connection to pivot, you can't tighten the nut fully...so it should clearly have been a self-locking nut, tightened to just before contact. ...more creative and wrong engineering by a PO...but at least not too difficult to find and rectify!

Cheers
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