Volvo electrics FINALLY sorted

[Nicholas Lewin]

Dear Volvo forum friends

You must check this out

https://www.skandix.de/en/news/volvo...rn-fuses/1946/

Finally, someone has resolved the issue of the dreaded fuse 4 and 6 with a tidy modern solution. Not the cheapest, but potentially a real boon

What a shame I have sold the car...

[CosmicBike]

someone on one of the 240 facebook groups has been importing these from the USA for a few months now, at about £150 a go, so the Skandix price is very good.
I had an eye on some fuseboxes from eBay which may have fitted with some wiring mods, no need now, though fuse 4 has already been disconnected and sits on crimps with a modern blade fuse.

[Stephen Edwin]

Thank you Nick.

The issue has been sorted for some time by a method documented in the forum.

However. If the Skandix item really does the job then it is neat. And that is good.

One thing to establish is whether it is a truly direct replacement for the original. In particular are the same terminals connected to each other as in the Volvo item. Does anyone know please? One could bridge with wire and connectors ...

&c.



P.S. ... that item is temptation.



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[CosmicBike]

Originally Posted by Stephen Edwin

Thank you Nick.

The issue has been sorted for some time by a method documented in the forum.

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Do you have a link to that? I tried searching. Ta

[Stephen Edwin]

Originally Posted by CosmicBike

Do you have a link to that? I tried searching. Ta

This thread about the fuel pump relay for Volvo 240 LH2.4 engines has a lot about fitting inline blade fuses instead of the two troublesome ceramic fuses.

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...lay+blade+fuse

I hope that helps.

I have done the mod recommended in that thread. I am tempted to buy the Skandix kit now. I'm in hope to hear some reports re the Skandix kit.



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[Stephen Edwin]

Originally Posted by CosmicBike

.... fuse 4 has already been disconnected and sits on crimps with a modern blade fuse.

Yes. That is basically the known fix, to be done to both the troublesome fuses,


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[Nicholas Lewin]

Cosmic Bike

As Stephen says, if you want to retain the original fuseboard, then the fix in the link is the way to go. I did it to my 240 and the improvement was transformational. Seriously! Long story, but my hunch is that if the fuses are making a poor contact, you don't get the full voltage/amperage to the ECU (on a Bosch EFI engine). By putting the blade fuses in, my car performed better and more consistently

If I still had my 240, I would be looking seriously at the Skandix replacement - let's assume it's a direct replacement (we need to check that) in which case, it would be a great job to do with a few cups of tea and some nice weather - and time! Just what we have at the moment. The new fuseboard shud operate more consistently/reliably and perhaps more sinisterly, by having better electrical contact you are removing a possible fire source on these cars (not aware that it was a problem, but the OEM fuseboard seems to hold the fuses less well as time passes)

In my head, replacing the whole board (assuming it is like for like) will take no longer than doing the blade fuse trick on the original board. There is a cost difference, but then you are buying an upgrade in effect

Interested to see where this goes. Nick

[Clifford Pope]

Part of the problem is surely the positioning of the fuseboard, in an area notoriously prone to damp, and subject to water leakage from an aging windscreen seal, blockage of drains, and water ingress from splash in deep puddles.

As well as attending to the rather poor original fuseboard, might it also be a good idea to obtain or design a suitable water-proof box with sealed cover?

[Stephen Edwin]

Originally Posted by Nicholas Lewin

Cosmic Bike

As Stephen says, if you want to retain the original fuseboard, then the fix in the link is the way to go. I did it to my 240 and the improvement was transformational. Seriously! Long story, but my hunch is that if the fuses are making a poor contact, you don't get the full voltage/amperage to the ECU (on a Bosch EFI engine). By putting the blade fuses in, my car performed better and more consistently

If I still had my 240, I would be looking seriously at the Skandix replacement - let's assume it's a direct replacement (we need to check that) in which case, it would be a great job to do with a few cups of tea and some nice weather - and time! Just what we have at the moment. The new fuseboard shud operate more consistently/reliably and perhaps more sinisterly, by having better electrical contact you are removing a possible fire source on these cars (not aware that it was a problem, but the OEM fuseboard seems to hold the fuses less well as time passes)

In my head, replacing the whole board (assuming it is like for like) will take no longer than doing the blade fuse trick on the original board. There is a cost difference, but then you are buying an upgrade in effect

Interested to see where this goes. Nick

As Stephen would say. If one simply wants a fix, the link explains how to do it.

As Nick says. The link method worked for him.

Difficult to know how time &c. would compare. Does any job go exactly as the plan hopes?

I am still tempted by the Skandix. Who would like to buy one, do it and write it up, please???

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[Stephen Edwin]

Originally Posted by Clifford Pope

Part of the problem is surely the positioning of the fuseboard, in an area notoriously prone to damp, and subject to water leakage from an aging windscreen seal, blockage of drains, and water ingress from splash in deep puddles.

As well as attending to the rather poor original fuseboard, might it also be a good idea to obtain or design a suitable water-proof box with sealed cover?

Now that would be interesting ......



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