Engine: D5244: S60 core plug strip down

[D5meister]

I started stipping mine today for core plug, rear main and probably DMF + clutch.

I am taking pics as I go.

If anyone wants pics of strip or specific removal tips - just say


Got most engine bay stuff out today ~ 3 hrs - I put every bolt back in hole

so I done end up with a few odds!

[D5meister]

The part numbers

core plug 8687868
rear main seal 9458178
driveshaft seals 6843481

And visually..

[D5meister]

As this is complex I want to break it into chunks

The first pictures are to enable people to get back to the point they were at before they started, a reference.

[D5meister]

I can only manage about 2~3 hours before may back has enough and I leavr this a day or two while I consider my next move.

Below was 2 1/2 hrs pf steady and slow,



The first things I took off were bulky

Air filter and fuse box in order to see the box.

Lots of wires plugs and larger air hoses.


I was nervous about stressing the flexi joint on the front pipe so split the exhaust at the turbo. 3 nuts and a bolt.

I took my pipe off as this work revealed a crack.

pop the gear selectors off an I undid the 2 bolts holding the gear selector bracket to box and zip tird it to firewall.

more wires and plugs etc.

good look at box.

Rest .

[D5meister]

Day 2

Was another 3hrs

Took the x braces off the exaust split joint in middle of car, 2 nuts on flange , pluled the 2 rubbers and removed front pipe , as has crack and needs stainless welding.

Bulk of this work was in passenger arch.

Drained box oil.

Wheel off,
track rod and drop link you will need to put allen key in end to stop it spinning and use a tube on the allen key for leverage, spanner to undo nut.

One has a torx 40 I think.



brake caliper, disc,

Bottom ball joint - reqs counterhold again with key to stop joint rotating with nut. Leave joint together for now.


split strut on 2 big bolts leave in without nuts for now

( reqs a 21mm and an 18mm socket and longer handle wrnches for ease I used torque wrenck and breaker bar)= tip clean rust off these bolt threads as they get squeaky tight and hot if dusty and rusty.

undo top mount 3 nuts - hold spring, and support hub - pushing hub towards the box - ( to keep the cv joits from separating , as they float )

pull the 2 big bolts and slide shock/spring away from hub and lift shock/ spring out.

Try not let the hub flop toward you as again cv joint can open up and if they do, they often dont go back in right place and will break up first test drive !!!

Under the car use a pry tool. A screwdriver is a bit small, I used a mini crowbar to pop the back of the inner cv joint body away from the box.

Place your lever in the small gap between the box and the metal cv joint - do NOT pull at these from the front!!!

You will hear a SNAP followed by visible movement. Lever out 5mm of shiny shaft. The SNAP is the retaining circlip popping out of the holding recess in the box.

In the arch, lift the hub lower ball joint from the wishbone and pull the Metal body of the inner CV joint free of the box.

If you want to reuse the drive shaft seals remove the shaft centrally and dont hit the seal with the splines or sharp circlip.


Bag the shaft in cling film or freezer bag and rubber bands to keep clean.

While handling the shaft/hub pair dont extend the driveshaft on the cv boots..


I took my wishbone off too as replacing the rear bush - leave if not.

I also took the plastic central arch line off and wheell rub plate

It will suddenly look very bare in the passenger arch.


Rest again..

[Thassos]

Great to see some pictures, wish more people would post pics !, always helps to see whats under all the gubbins ,..even if your not doing the same job