V50 Engine Turbo : Clutch kit - 2 different part numbers for T5?

[LizardOfBodom]

Originally Posted by Clan

Have you got the correct compression tool for fitting the self adjusting pressure plate assembly? It is sprung loaded and needs to be fitted with the adjuster fully pressed against it's springs ...

Im not doing it myself, god no :} leaving it with my mechs for 10 days, they have pretty well equipped workshop.

[Clan]

Originally Posted by LizardOfBodom

Im not doing it myself, god no :} leaving it with my mechs for 10 days, they have pretty well equipped workshop.

well remind them about it otherwise they will be taking it all out again ...

[LizardOfBodom]

Originally Posted by Clan

well remind them about it otherwise they will be taking it all out again ...

Oh, so you can assemble it without this tool but it will be wrong?
I'm obviously missing something so please elaborate, I will make sure to relay it to them!

[FunkyMelon]

Originally Posted by LizardOfBodom

Oh, so you can assemble it without this tool but it will be wrong?
I'm obviously missing something so please elaborate, I will make sure to relay it to them!

Yes, many garages do this and don't bother with what Clan just said, one of the few reasons why you need Volvo specialist/someone who actually knows the procedures on our cars and doesn't treat it like a clutch job on a 'normal' car.

[Clan]

Originally Posted by LizardOfBodom

Oh, so you can assemble it without this tool but it will be wrong?
I'm obviously missing something so please elaborate, I will make sure to relay it to them!

Yes the tool compresses the diaphragm spring which allows the auto adjuster to back off slack , then it is bolted up and the tool released which allows the plate clearance to self adjust … if the diaphragm is not compressed the adjustment can't work as it is already pre loaded . You do need specialist people these days on all makes of car .

[LizardOfBodom]

Originally Posted by Clan

Yes the tool compresses the diaphragm spring which allows the auto adjuster to back off slack , then it is bolted up and the tool released which allows the plate clearance to self adjust … if the diaphragm is not compressed the adjustment can't work as it is already pre loaded . You do need specialist people these days on all makes of car .

OK, thats something I was not aware of and I am not sure they are either. WIll make sure to tell them, thanks.
Is such tool available out of Volvo dealership or is it possible to do with standard tools also once you know what to do?

EDIT - is that tool we are talking about? (just reading about Vida clutch replacement procedure).

[Clan]

Originally Posted by LizardOfBodom

OK, thats something I was not aware of and I am not sure they are either. WIll make sure to tell them, thanks.
Is such tool available out of Volvo dealership or is it possible to do with standard tools also once you know what to do?

EDIT - is that tool we are talking about? (just reading about Vida clutch replacement procedure).

yes you need that and the special clutch centre plate cantering tool which this spring tool fits over . These clutches are not new they have been around for 10 years or more .

[T5R92011]

Here is a Vid.. not a Volvo.

+ YouTube Video

[LizardOfBodom]

So. Almost 2 weeks later, coming back from my hols I picked up my car after all the work been done. Had 2 days to drive around so far, gathering all info and thoughts so I guess its about time to share that with you all.
//Hope you dont mind its the direct copy&paste of my post from SS forum, but it took me an hour to write up so I want to keep it uncut //

1) Clutch replacement

Done.
Pics of old clutch are below. It was done at some point of the car's life - it is not a 137k miles clutch plate, plus no VOLVO branding on it, just LuK. The pressure plate was pretty worn and would fail earlier than later, I was told. CSC was pretty bad with black gunk inside of it.
Now the pedal springs back immediately and operates with a lot less force than before. Nothing else extraortinary to say about this, done&dusted, works as intended.












2) Fuel pump

Replaced.
Old unit looks "ok", nothing obvious or weird except of wear out. The PEM->pump wiring though looks bad and fiddled with.
With new pump&wiring car is FINALLY not reporting fuel issue and I havent seen CEL anymore. Fingers crossed its sorted for good.
No more annoying buzz noise aswell, duty cycle on idle is around 42% (previous pump - 60%).








3) Manifold gasket
the main issue of my car going to mech in the first place - thats sorted now. It had put up a quite fight, I was told, 4 studs had to be either drilled our or re-threaded & replaced with thicker ones and in general it was a PITA. Car doesnt fart anymore and I am sure they did whatever was possible to sort it out. Pretty much all I know.






4) Engine mount upgrade
Old one was replaced with FL hydraulic upgrade. No more annoying vibrations on wheel and much nicer experience when driving. But in the same time, old one was badly done so not a real comparison.



5) AC Clutch shimming
that one wasnt done "properly" but gap was sorted with clips trick. Works ok so far, wont worry too much for now.

6) TB cleaned and IC inspected, no problems there

ADD ONS:
In a last minute I got a ridiculously cheap set of OEM plugs and left them for replacement aswell. I did 40k miles on that set of plugs, one looks a bit burnt out. Not sure if thats because of an issue or because of non OEM plugs, but thats sorted for now anyway.






From unexpected issues that were found and sorted - see below for yourselves.





Also, on removal of both axle bolts, this was revealed (LH/RH). I must add that LHF bearing was done in Volvo by PO around 45k miles ago...





Having driven the car for 2 days now, here are my further observations:

- "axle ping" issue is still present and even more audible. We havent really done much with it during the job so I am thinking of trying the rubber cones solution now. My mech reckons new hub&bearing would help but in the same time LH side was done not so long ago so... Im not sure.
that one will be followed

- There is an issue with boost leak somewhere. Without the farting noise I can hear it clearly, I *THINK* it was there before as I remember that hissing sound from before, but cant be 100% sure. Vida test confirmed its boosting about 10psi, year ago after tune it went to 14 but in the same time I already reported months earlier that boost is no longer as it used to be. Now with manifiold fart sorted its to be investigated closer. Apart from constant HISSSSSSSSSSSsssssssss when accelerating, there is another odd thing that 100% wasnt before - sometimes on beginning of boost you can hear a short whistle-type sound, loud but very instant - doesnt last. It sounds a bit like aftermarket "showoff" BOV installed on diesel Passat's or something in that direction. We are not sure if thats due to Wastegate regulation or something else? My mech strongly suspects this part and asked me to get replacement but I am not 100% thats the case and also cant locate this one in Vida (*help here appreciated*).
CBV (metal pipe valve attached to turbo) and TCV were both replaced 30k miles ago, also BPS. Not sure how to tackle this one.



- Gears are sometimes hard to engage from standstill, especially when car is cold. This morning I couldnt get into 1 or R, but it feels strictly mechanical if you know what I mean? When driving and changing normally, seem to work much better though, with gears changing with nice "click" and H movement. Reported this aswell and we will look closer into that soon.

All in all car drives and behaves much much better, takes off without hesitation anymore and is more nippy and feels right, hard to explain it but it just feels like a newer car, except of those issues.
Current plan is to drive it for apx 2 weeks and when it will go for 4 tyre replacement, fine-tune everything and focus on details. Also I will try the newly acquired haldex controller so fingers crossed it will work.

Any comments on above issues highly appreciated, also if you have any thoughts based on condition of old pics, share your wisdom please. Anything prior to 82k miles with this car is a big unknown to me and anything between 82k and 92k is based only on PO paperwork...

btw - if anyone is interested, labour itself had cost me 1200euros.

[Yobbo]

Lots of work done, shame about the manifold studs!