remote central locking Qs

Anadinolin · Feb 17th, 2015, 20:30

Does anybody have the circuit diagrams for the remote central locking?

Is the wiring loom already in place for this system, just needs plugging in?

What do I need to move accross from my parts car to another car with central locking that isnt remote?

Anadinolin · Jul 19th, 2015, 19:17

OK, I have changed over the remote central locking unit. I also found out why my timed light delay didn't work.

On the central locking wiring loom there is a loop that is joined together by a weird plug - looks like one of those singular logo bricks. That is the bypass for the interior light delay.

The remote central locking module -keyless entry module is located under the dash, just behind the fuse box and it's attached by four screws which are capped, cabin-side. The module is grey.

I've plugged the module in and found that it only operated the hazards and the interior light comes on. But no locking on the central locking. The module clicks as you would expect it to.. I've changed the dash switch over aswell, I can hear the unit clicking when I press the button.

I used the OBD port on the suspension tower in position one and the codes I received where:

2-2-2
2-2-1
5-2-4
5-1-4

Any thoughts or ideas on how to remedy this.

This is a retrofit to a car that never had remote central locking.

doingitsideways · Jul 19th, 2015, 19:56

I would have thought there is no actuator in the driver's door, Andrew.

The system probably activates the driver's door, which then triggers the rest of the system

Anadinolin · Jul 19th, 2015, 20:07

I have got central locking, that still works as it should.

My actuator has 3 wires that go into a socket with 2 wires. Brown green and yellow. The two wires that come out are green and brown. There is a bit of the loom that does not match that of the donor car.

Donor car has a two wire actuator and there's micro switches that have 4 wires from the door handle. I've moved these into my car to find some of the loom is different. I wouldn't like to chop it up to get this to work, as it seems there are some push fit connectors I cannot find?

doingitsideways · Jul 19th, 2015, 23:04

Hmm... Was just a guess Andrew.

Just known of 400s without remote locking (but with key operated C/locking) that didn't have a solenoid in the driver's door, as the key moved that lock

Anadinolin · Jul 20th, 2015, 08:17

I probably need a wiring diagram for one with remote and one without to see what the differences are and where to plug in the other parts of the loom from the donor car.

My drivers door doesn't get recognised as being open or shut anymore. Before I put the keyless module in, if you switched on the lights and opened the drivers door a buzzer would sound and the open door symbol appeared on the dash but the interior light never came on. With the module neither the buzzer or the door symbol appear.

The door pillar switch is OK, I tested this with a multimeter. Do you think it could be this confusing the unit and making it think the door is open?

doingitsideways · Jul 20th, 2015, 19:41

Could be.

Does the lock itself have a switch inside. Also?

Anadinolin · Jul 20th, 2015, 20:38

My lock (door handle) dosent have the micro switches, but the actuator has a spare yellow wire, which I imagine would be a signal cable

On the donor car there are two yellow wires, a brown and a green coming from the lock (door handle) which go to a plug I have in my door, when plugged in sets the remote lock unit ticking like mad. It's got four pins whereas mine can only receive two of those wires.

the actuator in the donor car only has two wires, yellow and green, the plug on that is non existent in.my door loom. It dosent have a pole that comes down from the door handle to the actuator to open and shut the central locking, it has a wired control from.the lock.

The brown is live and I figure the two yellows are open and lock signal cables. My actuator has that yellow cable which is present in the drivers door only. My guess is if I wire this to the remote lock unit somehow I can control the locking and unlocking.

I will revisit this next weekend

doingitsideways · Jul 20th, 2015, 20:46

Erm...

Yes

Anadinolin · Jul 24th, 2015, 16:44

Could someone with vida/vadis post remote central locking wiring diagrams and normal central locking diagrams please? Eager to retrofit this unit

cheers a bunch

Feb 17th, 2015, 20:30	#1
Anadinolin VOC Member Last Online: Jun 20th, 2022 14:32 Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Upminster View Photos By: Anadinolin	remote central locking Qs Does anybody have the circuit diagrams for the remote central locking? Is the wiring loom already in place for this system, just needs plugging in? What do I need to move accross from my parts car to another car with central locking that isnt remote? __________________ what good music deserves is full deep bass to give it warmth. the stock volvo sub works....just at high volumes Drum n Bass and dubstep

Jul 19th, 2015, 19:17	#2
Anadinolin VOC Member Last Online: Jun 20th, 2022 14:32 Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Upminster View Photos By: Anadinolin	OK, I have changed over the remote central locking unit. I also found out why my timed light delay didn't work. On the central locking wiring loom there is a loop that is joined together by a weird plug - looks like one of those singular logo bricks. That is the bypass for the interior light delay. The remote central locking module -keyless entry module is located under the dash, just behind the fuse box and it's attached by four screws which are capped, cabin-side. The module is grey. I've plugged the module in and found that it only operated the hazards and the interior light comes on. But no locking on the central locking. The module clicks as you would expect it to.. I've changed the dash switch over aswell, I can hear the unit clicking when I press the button. I used the OBD port on the suspension tower in position one and the codes I received where: 2-2-2 2-2-1 5-2-4 5-1-4 Any thoughts or ideas on how to remedy this. This is a retrofit to a car that never had remote central locking. __________________ what good music deserves is full deep bass to give it warmth. the stock volvo sub works....just at high volumes Drum n Bass and dubstep

Jul 19th, 2015, 19:56	#3
doingitsideways The Daddy Last Online: Feb 29th, 2024 15:07 Join Date: May 2010 Location: Manchester	I would have thought there is no actuator in the driver's door, Andrew. The system probably activates the driver's door, which then triggers the rest of the system __________________ XC90 V8 Exec, C70 2.4T Convertible, S70 T5 CD, 850 TDI, 2 x Escort vans and a 2.8i Capri. Clearout has begun, but must continue!

Jul 19th, 2015, 20:07	#4
Anadinolin VOC Member Last Online: Jun 20th, 2022 14:32 Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Upminster View Photos By: Anadinolin	I have got central locking, that still works as it should. My actuator has 3 wires that go into a socket with 2 wires. Brown green and yellow. The two wires that come out are green and brown. There is a bit of the loom that does not match that of the donor car. Donor car has a two wire actuator and there's micro switches that have 4 wires from the door handle. I've moved these into my car to find some of the loom is different. I wouldn't like to chop it up to get this to work, as it seems there are some push fit connectors I cannot find? __________________ what good music deserves is full deep bass to give it warmth. the stock volvo sub works....just at high volumes Drum n Bass and dubstep

Jul 19th, 2015, 23:04	#5
doingitsideways The Daddy Last Online: Feb 29th, 2024 15:07 Join Date: May 2010 Location: Manchester	Hmm... Was just a guess Andrew. Just known of 400s without remote locking (but with key operated C/locking) that didn't have a solenoid in the driver's door, as the key moved that lock __________________ XC90 V8 Exec, C70 2.4T Convertible, S70 T5 CD, 850 TDI, 2 x Escort vans and a 2.8i Capri. Clearout has begun, but must continue!

Jul 20th, 2015, 08:17	#6
Anadinolin VOC Member Last Online: Jun 20th, 2022 14:32 Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Upminster View Photos By: Anadinolin	I probably need a wiring diagram for one with remote and one without to see what the differences are and where to plug in the other parts of the loom from the donor car. My drivers door doesn't get recognised as being open or shut anymore. Before I put the keyless module in, if you switched on the lights and opened the drivers door a buzzer would sound and the open door symbol appeared on the dash but the interior light never came on. With the module neither the buzzer or the door symbol appear. The door pillar switch is OK, I tested this with a multimeter. Do you think it could be this confusing the unit and making it think the door is open? __________________ what good music deserves is full deep bass to give it warmth. the stock volvo sub works....just at high volumes Drum n Bass and dubstep

Jul 20th, 2015, 19:41	#7
doingitsideways The Daddy Last Online: Feb 29th, 2024 15:07 Join Date: May 2010 Location: Manchester	Could be. Does the lock itself have a switch inside. Also? __________________ XC90 V8 Exec, C70 2.4T Convertible, S70 T5 CD, 850 TDI, 2 x Escort vans and a 2.8i Capri. Clearout has begun, but must continue!

Jul 20th, 2015, 20:38	#8
Anadinolin VOC Member Last Online: Jun 20th, 2022 14:32 Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Upminster View Photos By: Anadinolin	My lock (door handle) dosent have the micro switches, but the actuator has a spare yellow wire, which I imagine would be a signal cable On the donor car there are two yellow wires, a brown and a green coming from the lock (door handle) which go to a plug I have in my door, when plugged in sets the remote lock unit ticking like mad. It's got four pins whereas mine can only receive two of those wires. the actuator in the donor car only has two wires, yellow and green, the plug on that is non existent in.my door loom. It dosent have a pole that comes down from the door handle to the actuator to open and shut the central locking, it has a wired control from.the lock. The brown is live and I figure the two yellows are open and lock signal cables. My actuator has that yellow cable which is present in the drivers door only. My guess is if I wire this to the remote lock unit somehow I can control the locking and unlocking. I will revisit this next weekend __________________ what good music deserves is full deep bass to give it warmth. the stock volvo sub works....just at high volumes Drum n Bass and dubstep

Jul 20th, 2015, 20:46	#9
doingitsideways The Daddy Last Online: Feb 29th, 2024 15:07 Join Date: May 2010 Location: Manchester	Erm... Yes __________________ XC90 V8 Exec, C70 2.4T Convertible, S70 T5 CD, 850 TDI, 2 x Escort vans and a 2.8i Capri. Clearout has begun, but must continue!

Jul 24th, 2015, 16:44	#10
Anadinolin VOC Member Last Online: Jun 20th, 2022 14:32 Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Upminster View Photos By: Anadinolin	Could someone with vida/vadis post remote central locking wiring diagrams and normal central locking diagrams please? Eager to retrofit this unit cheers a bunch __________________ what good music deserves is full deep bass to give it warmth. the stock volvo sub works....just at high volumes Drum n Bass and dubstep

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