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CEM 30621305 wanted

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Old Oct 21st, 2017, 15:35   #1
kokot
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Default CEM 30621305 wanted

Hey guys.

I need to replace CEM since one of the headlights does not work. I know for sure it is CEM since I tested all the options.

Does any of you have any spare one, one to sell or you know anyone who does? If yes please get in touch.

Regards
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Old Oct 23rd, 2017, 18:40   #2
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If you know how to solder, you can replace the two relays responsible for the dipped beams. https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=67584
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Old Oct 24th, 2017, 00:10   #3
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If you know how to solder, you can replace the two relays responsible for the dipped beams. https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=67584
Thank you very much for your answer. I have noticed this about soldering relays in another post and you know what? You just encouraged me. I was soldering a lot as a kid, so I will give it a go. Not much to lose I have. Thank you again!
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Old Oct 24th, 2017, 14:22   #4
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Originally Posted by kokot View Post
Thank you very much for your answer. I have noticed this about soldering relays in another post and you know what? You just encouraged me. I was soldering a lot as a kid, so I will give it a go. Not much to lose I have. Thank you again!
The hardest bit is removing the relays. The solder on the board has no lead (Pb), so the melting point is higher. You will need a sucker/suction pump to remove the solder. However, you will find out that even though you remove most of the solder, the 5 relay legs will still be stuck to the board. If you attempt to pull the relays at this point, you will find out that most probably they will pull out the tiny metal seats at the base of the board and it will be almost impossible to apply solder when you put the new relays in. I damaged two CEMs this way when I first started

So, the way I do them now, is to carefully cut open the top part of the relay, use long nose pliers to pull out the internal smaller relay, then break off the 5 copper connecting wires at their base in there and carefully yank out the rest of the plastic bit of the relay. What you will be left out with, will be 5 small legs of each relay left on the board, Then you can use the soldering iron to heat up each one and while doing so, pull out.

I have done quite a few CEMs the last couple of years using this method and had a 100% success rate. Good luck with this
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Old Oct 27th, 2017, 12:19   #5
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The hardest bit is removing the relays. The solder on the board has no lead (Pb), so the melting point is higher. You will need a sucker/suction pump to remove the solder. However, you will find out that even though you remove most of the solder, the 5 relay legs will still be stuck to the board. If you attempt to pull the relays at this point, you will find out that most probably they will pull out the tiny metal seats at the base of the board and it will be almost impossible to apply solder when you put the new relays in. I damaged two CEMs this way when I first started

So, the way I do them now, is to carefully cut open the top part of the relay, use long nose pliers to pull out the internal smaller relay, then break off the 5 copper connecting wires at their base in there and carefully yank out the rest of the plastic bit of the relay. What you will be left out with, will be 5 small legs of each relay left on the board, Then you can use the soldering iron to heat up each one and while doing so, pull out.

I have done quite a few CEMs the last couple of years using this method and had a 100% success rate. Good luck with this
Thank you ever so much. This is very essential information.
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Old Oct 27th, 2017, 13:04   #6
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One more thing guys, do you know where I can buy such relays please? Any link would be appreciated.

Thanks to all of you who contributed to this thread.
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Old Oct 27th, 2017, 21:03   #7
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http://uk.farnell.com/panasonic-elec...RoCUTcQAvD_BwE

or

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/non-la...elays/8156592/
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Old Oct 30th, 2017, 13:10   #8
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Thanks you very much for all your help
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Old Nov 7th, 2017, 17:45   #9
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Originally Posted by gatos View Post
The hardest bit is removing the relays. The solder on the board has no lead (Pb), so the melting point is higher. You will need a sucker/suction pump to remove the solder. However, you will find out that even though you remove most of the solder, the 5 relay legs will still be stuck to the board. If you attempt to pull the relays at this point, you will find out that most probably they will pull out the tiny metal seats at the base of the board and it will be almost impossible to apply solder when you put the new relays in. I damaged two CEMs this way when I first started

So, the way I do them now, is to carefully cut open the top part of the relay, use long nose pliers to pull out the internal smaller relay, then break off the 5 copper connecting wires at their base in there and carefully yank out the rest of the plastic bit of the relay. What you will be left out with, will be 5 small legs of each relay left on the board, Then you can use the soldering iron to heat up each one and while doing so, pull out.

I have done quite a few CEMs the last couple of years using this method and had a 100% success rate. Good luck with this
Hey guys.
So I ordered relays, had not much previous experience as to soldering, but I followed instructions which you provided and firstly removed old relay and then soldered on another one with the equipment I have at home. cost of repair was about £7-including solder sucker tool from ebay and 2 relays I bought online. All was delivered today so I gave it a go and luckily both of the lights are on. Perfect, thank u very much again for all your help and advice.

For all those who would get confused just like me about which relay belongs to which light, there is a picture in another thread and one is looking at lights from position of driver being inside, not outside.

Last edited by kokot; Nov 7th, 2017 at 17:48.
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Old Nov 7th, 2017, 22:35   #10
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Glad you got it sorted
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