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Engine Rebuild

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Old Jul 9th, 2018, 14:11   #1
Darth Vol
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Default Engine Rebuild

After about 16 months away from cars to get head space I've split the failed B5234T5 engine down into its constituent parts.

So plan is to go for full rebuild.

Looking for information if possible for the part numbers required for the following:

  1. Bottom end bearings (Con rod bearings).
  2. Piston Rings including Oil rings.
  3. Head gasket kit components.
  4. Complete Timing belt components.
  5. Cam shaft seals - both intake and exhaust ones.
  6. Exhaust valves, Intake valves (Turbo).
  7. Valve Oil seals
  8. Water pump seal part number.
  9. Oil pump seal part number.
  10. Lower sump rubber seals
  11. Oil feed seals (bottom of engine where twin pipes feed to oil cooler.
  12. Oil cooler oil pipe seals (going into oil cooler).
  13. Head cylinder replacement kit and seals
  14. Thermostat housing seal.
  15. Cam cover anaerobic seal.
  16. Timing tensioner.
  17. Crank oil seal.
  18. Air intake Plenum seal.
  19. Exhaust manifold seal.
  20. Oil Dip stick oil seal.
  21. Turbo oil return seal.
  22. Bolts required to join the bottom of the long and short block together with other bolts that go with them (14mm, 12mm, 10mm)


Also seeking unbroken timing belt backing plastic that the timing belt cover is bolted onto with the 12mm bolt. Part number 9135040 - specific to turbo B5234T units.

Also on look out for an S60R exhaust manifold P/N: 30637921

Cheers.
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Last edited by Darth Vol; Jul 9th, 2018 at 15:16.
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Old Jul 9th, 2018, 19:11   #2
SteveSarre
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Hi Darth,

Does this page help?

https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/s..._category=7072

Steve
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Old Jul 9th, 2018, 19:13   #3
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That exhaust manifold is here

https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/p.../30637921.html

and if you click "What this fits" it lists
Volvo S60 2.0l 5 cylinder Turbo 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007
Volvo S60 2.3l 5 cylinder Turbo 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004
Volvo S60 2.4l 5 cylinder Turbo 2001, 2002, 2003, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009
Volvo S60 2.5l 5 cylinder Turbo 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009
Volvo S80 2.5l 5 cylinder Turbo 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006
Volvo V70 2.3l 5 cylinder Turbo 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004
Volvo V70 2.4l 5 cylinder Turbo 2001, 2002, 2003, 2005, 2006, 2007
Volvo V70 2.5l 5 cylinder Turbo 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007
Volvo V70 XC 2.4l 5 cylinder Turbo 2001, 2002
Volvo V70 XC 2.5l 5 cylinder Turbo 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007
Volvo XC90 2.5l 5 cylinder Turbo 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007


Hope that helps,
Steve
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C70 T 20V Auto Conv. 2001 Blue, C70 T5 Auto Conv. 2000 Blue
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Old Jul 9th, 2018, 19:16   #4
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Also maybe look at

https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/p...6/9135040.html
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V70 2.5 10V Auto 1998 Green
C70 T 20V Auto Conv. 2001 Blue, C70 T5 Auto Conv. 2000 Blue
V70 2.5 Turbo AWD Auto 1998 Green, V70 2.5 10V Auto BiFuel 1999 Red (scrapped) V70 20v Auto 1999 Green (scrapped)
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Old Jul 10th, 2018, 09:01   #5
Darth Vol
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Thanks Steve!

Dropping off the rest of the engine to the mechanic this evening after work so wanted to get as much info before the rebuild as will be participating in the rebuild so looking forward to it.

Bren
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Old Jul 10th, 2018, 09:58   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth Vol View Post
After about 16 months away from cars to get head space I've split the failed B5234T5 engine down into its constituent parts.

So plan is to go for full rebuild.

Looking for information if possible for the part numbers required for the following:

  1. Bottom end bearings (Con rod bearings).
  2. Piston Rings including Oil rings.
  3. Head gasket kit components.
  4. Complete Timing belt components.
  5. Cam shaft seals - both intake and exhaust ones.
  6. Exhaust valves, Intake valves (Turbo).
  7. Valve Oil seals
  8. Water pump seal part number.
  9. Oil pump seal part number.
  10. Lower sump rubber seals
  11. Oil feed seals (bottom of engine where twin pipes feed to oil cooler.
  12. Oil cooler oil pipe seals (going into oil cooler).
  13. Head cylinder replacement kit and seals
  14. Thermostat housing seal.
  15. Cam cover anaerobic seal.
  16. Timing tensioner.
  17. Crank oil seal.
  18. Air intake Plenum seal.
  19. Exhaust manifold seal.
  20. Oil Dip stick oil seal.
  21. Turbo oil return seal.
  22. Bolts required to join the bottom of the long and short block together with other bolts that go with them (14mm, 12mm, 10mm)


Also seeking unbroken timing belt backing plastic that the timing belt cover is bolted onto with the 12mm bolt. Part number 9135040 - specific to turbo B5234T units.

Also on look out for an S60R exhaust manifold P/N: 30637921

Cheers.
that's going to cost you a fortune surely you should be fitting a good used engine for £500 ? what happened to your original ?
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Old Jul 10th, 2018, 10:31   #7
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waste of time, just get an RN 2.4 T5 and fit that.

your bores wont be parallel and probably have a settle groove up top, Mahle rings are hard to get hold of ( i do have a source that said ), and a rebore plus pistons is NOT cheap. Youll need oversize Wisecos or CP pistons as a result, a hone wont do it.
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Old Jul 10th, 2018, 10:53   #8
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Originally Posted by DunkinBiskits View Post
waste of time, just get an RN 2.4 T5 and fit that.

your bores wont be parallel and probably have a settle groove up top, Mahle rings are hard to get hold of ( i do have a source that said ), and a rebore plus pistons is NOT cheap. Youll need oversize Wisecos or CP pistons as a result, a hone wont do it.
Cheers for the info lads - good to know about Mahle etc and Wisecos however going to retain Volvo original internals.

Timing had slipped so all exhaust valves bent back in Feb/March 2017 at ~30 mph so no over all damage to block etc.

Ended up at the time buying a brand new ford focus ST line while i was considering my options.

Mileage was not massive on engine - 143k approx.

The strip down of the engine (it was always losing oil from seals) has resulted in good findings on the internals.

No wear or striation marks on the piston sleeves. They are as polished as I presume they were the day they were fabricated for use.

The mechanic I'm using specialises in engine builds and he seems more than happy with the condition of the internals - As above he was concerned about potential internal wear etc but said with spares he has stored from working on other engines etc that he can outfit a good engine once we source all the volvo parts (gaskets/bearings etc and piston rings) so as he has done good work for me before without issue I'm happy to go with his recommendation.

I've had the misfortune of having bought 2 so-called "mint", "perfectly running" engines for said 855 AWD as considerable cost from breakers etc in UK and neither have lasted more than 8-14k miles despite having done stage zero rebuilds on each - either they burned oil or had internal knocking after a few thosand miles. So will never buy a £500 engine again with unknown history. Least with this engine i have undergoing a full rebuild I'll know it will be good for many years ahead.

And as I've had time to re-evaluate what I am going to do with the AWD and the realisation of how rare a car it now is, esp in Ireland (Only remaining 1 of the 5 originally imported for sale in 1996) I feel the expense is worth it.

I've budgeted for it and have the money set aside as it will only add to the value of the car as the years pass by and it becomes even more rare. Alluding to a post i have in my build thread there were only every 309 RHD versions of the 855 AWD built. 245 of which were sold into the UK, 5 into Ireland and the remaining 57 sold to RHD markets world wide.

Considering the expense put into the car since 2011, it makes sense to do the final push (with rebuilt gearbox, awd system, suspension, interior, wiring, and due to its aforementioned rarity etc.,) and have the car running again by early to mid-2019.
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Old Jul 11th, 2018, 21:33   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth Vol View Post
Cheers for the info lads - good to know about Mahle etc and Wisecos however going to retain Volvo original internals.
Mahle or AE make the factory pistons.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth Vol View Post
No wear or striation marks on the piston sleeves. They are as polished as I presume they were the day they were fabricated for use
polished bores arent a good thing. It means they dont let oil 'hang' on the honing, therefore wearing everything out quicker. Thats rings, cylinders and piston skirts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth Vol View Post
The mechanic I'm using specialises in engine builds and he seems more than happy with the condition of the internals - As above he was concerned about potential internal wear etc but said with spares he has stored from working on other engines etc that he can outfit a good engine once we source all the volvo parts (gaskets/bearings etc and piston rings) so as he has done good work for me before without issue I'm happy to go with his recommendation.
has he mic'ed everything and plastigauged it twice? theres no way he could determine it acceptable to build on in such a short space of time with no more than a visual inspection. Ive been part of a fair few forged builds now and ive yet to find a block thats ready to go without a rebore. Ovalised and bowed cylinder walls are terribly common on a 20y/o engine, regardless of mileage, hence my suggestion of using an RN 2.4 T5 - far younger, same stronger 81mm bore like the 2.3 N engine, more likely got better cylinder walls thru running a slightly longer rod so avoiding thrust wear on combustion stroke.

Also ,youre being hypocritical, youre willing the run used internals yet you wont run with a used sealed engine? Doesnt make sense mate. A half arsed build wont last 5 minutes. You dont need to do it expensively sensible, just do sensible. If that means using a newer engine as a baseline then tbh why would you consider anything else?

Only looking out for you man, apologies if i come across abrupt but when youre considering spending a fair figure on something, ploughing money into one option without understanding or considering other options isnt very savvy.

Dunc
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Old Jul 11th, 2018, 21:52   #10
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]Mahle or AE make the factory pistons.

Hah cheers I didn’t know that as presumed incorrectly off the top of my head mahl etc were aftermarket.
😋

Still able to get the standard bearings with the bearing numbers so all good with that.


polished bores arent a good thing. It means they dont let oil 'hang' on the honing, therefore wearing everything out quicker. Thats rings, cylinders and piston skirts.

Probably didn’t explain that properly as I’m not trained to give a good description of the interior of an engine.

But mechanic has all his own machinery to do engines and with years of experience behind him and his crew I’m happy to let him make the choices in the rebuild.


has he mic'ed everything and plastigauged it twice? theres no way he could determine it acceptable to build on in such a short space of time with no more than a visual inspection. Ive been part of a fair few forged bulds now and ive yet to find a block thats ready to go without a rebore. Ovalised and bowed cylinder walls are terribly common on a 20y/o engine, regardless of mileage, hence my suggestion of using an RN 2.4 T5 - far younger, more likely got better cylinder walls thru running a slightly longer rod so avoiding thrust wear on combustion stroke.

As above he is best able to make those decisions on exploratory work. Not me 😂


Also ,youre being hypocritical, youre willing the run used internals yet you wont run with a used sealed engine? Doesnt make sense mate. A half arsed build wont last 5 minutes. You dont need to dont it expensively sensible, just do sensible. If that means using a newer engine as a baseline then tbh why would you consider anything else?

Yeah I hadn’t thought about that when I said I was going to use old internals. May have written that incorrectly as as I’ve made up a list of required new internal components the engine will be rebuilt with new parts.

Only looking out for you man, apologies if i come across abrupt but when youre considering spending a fair figure on something, ploughing money into one option without understanding or considering other options isnt very savvy.

Cheers I put down your abruptness due to England throwing away the game there😂😂😂😂

Thanks for advice on the 2.4 RN though.
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