Any tips on jacking?

[Will760T]

My 760 has the springs for nivomats, but no nivomats, so a job I need to do is to replace the springs. I got the springs last week and set about trying to fit them, which should be easy enough.

Reading the previous threads it seems like people jack from the rear diff, before putting onto axle stands for safety (of course). It just looks a long way under there! I.e you'd have to crawl under a long way before you could reach the jack handle, and therefore it wouldn't be that safe. Or am I overthinking it?

On other cars I've been able to use the front jack point to jack, leaving the rear one free for stands. Its just that to get the spring out I think I need to jack it quite high.

On one of the youtube videos where a guy replaces these shocks he jacks on the sill, but I hear that isn't advised.

Any clever ideas welcome... Otherwise the garage beckons!

[griston64]

They will be referring to a trolley jack to jack up on the rear diff. No need to crawl anywhere as it just slides under and line up just past the anti roll bar.

[Will760T]

Thanks, yes, I've got a trolley jack, but even then it looks a long way! Perhaps I just need to man up and give it a go. Maybe I'll use a longer handle or shim.

[aardvarkash10]

if your trolley jack has a removable handle, use a length of pipe or a broom stick to give the length you need.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Will760T

Thanks, yes, I've got a trolley jack, but even then it looks a long way! Perhaps I just need to man up and give it a go. Maybe I'll use a longer handle or shim.

There's no room to swing a longer handle when the trolley jack is under the car! Not until you've jacked it up a bit to start anyway!

There are some reinforced chassis sections just forward of the trailing arm front mounts and inboard from the sill jacking points. If you invest in a rubber hockey puck to put on the jack saddle so it's between the jack and the diff, first it reduces the risk of any damage to the diff, second reduces the risk of slipping and last but not least, gives you an extra inch of lift.

Once jacked up, support one end of the axle with the jack so it's just taking the weight of the axle, remove the lower shock mounting bolt and gently lower the jack so the spring drops out, Clean the spring seats top and bottom, fit the new spring and raise the axle on the jack until you can refit the shock lower bolt. Just tighten it finger tight for now.

Repeat for the other side then once the weight of the car is back on the wheels, tighten the shock lower mounting bolts fully.

This procedure works well for the live axle variant but i see your user name says 760T so if you have a turbo saloon it will probably have the multilink IRS unless it's a very early one. That said, if you have Nivo springs, i'm guessing it's an estate anyway so you'll have the live axle. Also no anti roll bar on most 7xx estates, not sure if the turbo got one or not.

[Will760T]

Thanks so much - this is really helpful! I'll be giving the job a go tomorrow

[Ian21401]

I usually crawl under far enough to make sure that the jack cradle is correctly located under the diff. then use one of my socket set Tommy bars on the jack to start the lift until there is enough clearance to use the jack’s handle. Once up it’s axle stands under the jacking points with a piece of hardwood between the axle stand and the jacking point. Considering obtaining some hockey pucks for that.

[Will760T]

Thanks again for the helpful comments. I got the job done yesterday and what a difference! The ride is much better and of course the rear doesn’t sag any more.
Cheers

[Laird Scooby]

Nothing worse than having a saggy rear!

Glad it all went well and you've found the improvements it brings!