Re-drilling alloys?

[wooble]

It would make them et38. 8.5" et38 would poke out from under the arches a lot, if you want an idea jack up one side, rest a 1" wooden batten across the studs and offer up the wheel to see what the poke is like with spacers. you'd probably need to roll the rear arches at least as well with wheels that far out. Fully laden, I've got less than 2mm clearance between my tyres and the arch lips, and I'm only running moderate offset 16x7s. For an example, the wheels pictured here are the equivalent of zero offset 8.5" on the front, so imagine wheels poking another 38mm further out. Those are my old wheels, and they were ridiculous fitment on a 240, hence why I sold them for a pile to an american with more money than sense, even if they were highly tasty

Personally I'd redrill and they'd fit just right, if you want to buy wheels for value or investment buy 4x100, 4x108 or 5x100 BBS or Compomotives, respray and watch the money roll in :P

[Magnumpi]

Hhmmm, ok then so with spacers its looking like on the fronts its a no go. I have jacked up the back taken a wheel off and held the wheels up resting on the ends of the studs (how long are the studs?) to get an idea and on the rears atleast It appeared to me as they were still quite inset, but the track is narrower on the back is It not? I'll Check on the fronts tomo and possibly make some wooden spacers to get a proper idea.

I didn't buy them specifically to make money, more because they are one of my favourite wheel designs ever , but the fact they were relatively cheap was a bonus. I paid £350 for mine, currently there is only one set on eBay with the same dimensions admitedly fully restored , but up for £1800! I've not seen a set for less than £800, i could always swap barrels/rims for more suitable offsets.

[jonah]

Most wheels have some degree of positive offset and adding a spacer reduces the offset, e.g. adding a 25mm spacer to a set of et40 FWD Volvo rims to make them et15 so they fit on a RWD model.

Adding a 25mm spacer to your already low offset et13 wheels will send them into negative offset, so the wheels will be et-12.

My 240 has slightly shortened trailing arms, to centre the wheels, and I have removed most of the rear arch lips and the 7.5" wide et-12 wheels I have are still a very snug fit with 225/45/17 tyres. I can't see 8.5" wide et-12 wheels having any chance of fitting.

[wooble]

^^ this is correct. I was speaking from the bottom of 8 pints of Red Stripe last night, which would explain my miserable maths failure. I would suggest everyone else ignores my embarrassing mathematical failure. oops.

[crogthomas]

Originally Posted by Magnumpi

(how long are the studs?)

27mm

Try looking for FWD wheels, which are usually 40 or so ET. With a 20-27mm spacer they will end up around 15-20 ET which is very nearly what the Volvo wheels are.

[Magnumpi]

Originally Posted by wooble

^^ this is correct. I was speaking from the bottom of 8 pints of Red Stripe last night, which would explain my miserable maths failure. I would suggest everyone else ignores my embarrassing mathematical failure. oops.

Oh you utter scoundrel, just as I thought i was getting my head around it you throw me that curve-ball!

All joking aside i asked due to the wealth of miss-information about et across internet forums, It appears most people dont know what they are on about and the correct info gets lost.

I had already come to the conclusion they are et-12 with spacers as et is relative to the centerline of the rim so spacers make them negative, i Just wanted confirmation.

I did a rather non scientific test of taping a plumb bob to both front and back arches then measuring the gap from tyre wall to string, the front was 45mm, the rears 70mm so the track has a difference of 25mm front to back. Wish I'd know that when i trial fitted the rears.
I tested the fronts by Holding them up to the studs, they stick past the arch a fair few mm.
The gap from rear wheel lip to strut tower was 35mm, and as above the studs are 27mm so It would leave a gap of 8mm IF I was to get them redrilled, but still not sure If It would steer of even function properly!

I did take photos while doing so but modern tech defeats me and i can no longer get the pics from my phone to my pc.

Cheers for all the help guys.

[minesa240x3]

Hi very interesting discussion this and very informative too.
I hope you measured both nearside and offside rear when using the plumbob?

The reason being it varies when the car is loaded or unloaded.Now if you lower the rear by cutting the coils or even buying bespoke lowering springs it will throw the axle across.A shortened or adjustable PANHARD rod is the only way of putting the axle back into center position.

Shortening the front coilsprings will actually push the top of the wheel in and the bottom out but probably only by millimetres so not noticeable.

Regards Brian.