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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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Help! One window down.Views : 1015 Replies : 25Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jul 9th, 2018, 22:29 | #11 | |
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The other thing my little method does is checks the wiring between the door and body - if the window only moves at a certain position of the door then it's a good bet it's broken wiring. The rest of it really is just "percussive maintenance" - shocking something mechanically to "encourage" it to work again. Remember the old black and white tvs with dodgy horizontal and vertical hold controls? You'd sit there trying to watch them with the picture rolling round like a herd of zebra stampeding through the screen until someone walked past the tv on their way to make a coffee and gave a swift whack on the top. That would make the valves vibrate - "wiggle" in their bases (sockets if you prefer) and remake the connection, usually to the heater circuit and suddenly you'd have a watchable picture again. It's a similar idea but with more modern technology.
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Jul 9th, 2018, 22:37 | #12 |
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It's an open and shut case.
Seriously, back in my lab days, I had Steve's First and Second Laws: is it plugged in, and is it switched on? Solved so many equipment problems. And the next step was to give the cables a good shake. If none of that solved the problem, then and only then would I start thinking.
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1989 740 GL 2.0 estate 2000 V40 2.0 (gone) 2005 Toyota Avensis 2.0 estate (gone) 2012 Ford Mondeo 2.2 TDCi estate 1999 Land Rover Discovery 2 TD5 |
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Jul 9th, 2018, 22:44 | #13 |
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Your First and Second Laws are also part of Daves First law of Finger Trouble aka an ID 10 T User Error. There were many other parts of it, depending on the machine in question such as front panel isolator, interlocked guards shut, E/Stops all out and active etc - some were unique to the machine in question.
All much of a muchness though!
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Jul 9th, 2018, 23:41 | #14 | |
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That link was amusing, especially the links to Land Rover taking their products back as they didn't leak..... |
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Jul 10th, 2018, 01:03 | #15 | |
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When the dogs nose lit up, was he facing the way the sheep floated away? If not, was he facing North? If he was facing North, it's a sure sign the Faerey has been invoked and things may never be the same again! Of course, if the sheep also floated North, you could have a dilemna on your hands! Assuming for a moment he wasn't facing North but the direction the sheep floated away, if his tail lights up and points in the direction the sheep went, look out for low flying sheep as they are probably returning whence they came. Alternatively, he may suddenly lay on his back with his nose lit up facing the direction the sheep went - he's "back"ing his previous action of sending the sheep away.
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Apr 6th, 2019, 15:02 | #16 |
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The sheep are back, one dogs nose is close to another dogs rear and the window is jammed again!
Goes down, won't come up, no noise nothing, tried the door slamming technique, only thing that happened was the plastic wood and carpet trim ended up detaching itself. Opened up the rear panelling, trying live lead to the red then black and that doesn't help either. Tried hitting the motor with a hammer no joy. Think it may be time to remove the motor but is it riveted in place? Tony H |
Apr 6th, 2019, 15:38 | #17 |
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I'm glad the aminals have returned to normal!
When you connect the jumper wires to it, are there any little splashes of current/sparks when you do it? If not, i suspect you've had the last bit of life out of the motor brushes. In which case, i'd be very reluctant to drill the rivets out. Many window regulators have a counterbalance spring to help raise the window and these are surprisingly strong - not to mention extremely awkward to refit into the regulator if they pop out when the motor is removed! I binned 2 full sets of previously working electric window regulators for the Rover 800 series because the previous custodian had removed the motors and counter springs. There was no way on earth of refitting the springs without either a specialist machine or risking (very) serious injury! I'd suggest you find a working replacement regulator complete with motor on either ebay or Luke (360beast) is breaking a 940 at the moment, i think it has electric windows all round but i'm not 100% sure - this is his thread about what parts are available etc : https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...20#post2510620 Good luck and let us know how it goes!
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Apr 6th, 2019, 15:53 | #18 |
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Thanks for quick reply...
I assumed (wrongly I understand now) that I could remove the motor and heave the window back up. Where/what is the regulator in relation to the rest, I have the door panel off, fighting past the insulation stuff (cannot figure out how to remove the plastic panel as the door release thing seems stuck). If the motor is knackered, then surely it needs to come out although having just thought that through, it can't be knackered as it winds the window down... Is there a mechanical override? Thanks Last edited by Skyedriver; Apr 6th, 2019 at 16:03. |
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Apr 6th, 2019, 17:10 | #19 |
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Further research:
The switch next to the drive doesn't do anything, the switch on the rear door whirs when you press to go down but I think the window is now fully down. It doesn't make a noise when you press to go up. Connecting a live lead to either the red or black leads on the "motor" does nothing. Not even a whir when yo press to go down. Does the black bit (the motor) unbolt from the rest (cap headed bolts). If I can just get the window back up at least the car won't rain in through an open window. |
Apr 6th, 2019, 19:05 | #20 |
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Are you only connecting one wire to the motor to jumper it to drive the motor back up?
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