Brake pads changed

[nu11eaf]

2016 XC90 (2017 MY) 19K miles, mainly town driving.
After my brakes started to squeal (only after long journey of over 30 miles when brakes were hot) I inspected the pads and discovered the rear pads only had about 1/8" of meat left on them, the discs were still fine with minimal normal wear. Front pads still about 35% - 40%.
Old rear pads.
20200112_161357.jpg

I know many will have already done this easy job but some may be put off by the electric parking brake so thought I would post this to show it is a really easy job.

I fitted new pads to the rear today with no special tools other than a T30 and T45 Torx bits.
The job was so quick and easy and took about 15 minutes each side after removing wheels.
With gear selector in Park and Parking brake off I removed the two T30 Torx head bolts from the parking brake motor and pulled motor away from the piston, then I wound the piston to motor connector spline "clockwise" until it came to a stop, you can do this by hand but it is easier with a socket over the spline (but still turn it by hand, do not use a ratchet)
I then refitted the motor ensuring all was nice and clean.

I then pulled the spring clip off the front of the caliper and removed the two caliper slider bolts plastic dust covers and using a T45 Torx bit socket I removed the two slider bolts and lifted the caliper up and removed the pad at the rear of the disc then slid the caliper loosely back in place, I then used a small lever to push the piston back, this took no effort at all.

Then I pulled caliper back off and removed the front pad and cleaned everything up and applied copper grease to pad/caliper metal to metal contact points and located the pads,
the pads at the rear of the discs are directional and have an arrow and L and R on them to show you which goes were so you can't go wrong, the pad at the front of the disc has a sticky coating on the back and a peel off paper that you peel off before fitting the caliper.

The caliper was refitted over the new pads and the slider bolts refitted and dust caps replaced, the spring clip refitted to the front of the caliper and that's it job done.

After doing each side I pumped the brake pedal to press out the piston and started the engine and with my foot on the brake applied the parking brake on and off three times and could feel the pedal drop slightly as the parking brake wound on.
I did this after doing the each side so that the brake fluid that gets pushed back into the master cylinder when the piston is pushed back to fit new pads gets pumped back as the piston goes forward onto the pads, there is less chance of over flowing the master cylinder reservoir that way which may happen if both sides pistons are pushed right back at the same time.
Wheels on and road tested and all good.

Note: The fluid level drops over time as your brake pads wear down and piston's are pushed out to maintain pad contact to discs, the level will return to normal with new pads but If you have topped up your master cylinder at any time due to level drop, watch the reservoir level as you push the piston's back as it may overflow.
The reservoir is on the bulk head under the bonnet and accessed by lifting a plastic cover on the scuttle.

[cassell]

Thanks for the write-up, very useful.

By coincidence my 2016 MY2017 V90 had it's third service in November at 26k miles and the rear pads were down as 80+% worn so I haggled on the price and got them changed for little more than the parts cost (genuine Volvo obviously). The fronts were only about half worn as with yours.

I mentioned that in the past on many Volvos I've owned the front pads have worn out first, the technician stated that the SPA cars have a bias towards the rear under 'normal' braking and that when used for towing a caravan, as I do, the towing module compensates towards rear brakes even more. This may explain, as in my case, why your's have worn down more than the front pads.

[Begonia]

Interesting piece of work, nu11eaf.

Many thanks.

I've also been told by the dealer that an XC90 is designed to brake by using its rear brakes the most. Usually, it's the other way round.

[Jackysi]

New cars actually are beginning to use more rear brakes than front. I've had the same experience on my previous Skoda Superb 2018. It seems that when you are stopping softly/slowly applying brake to rear feels more "natural" and because new cars are mostly powered by electronics, its very easy to create variable distribution regarding to brake requirements. So when stopping slowly, rear brakes are used more, when stopping fast/faster fronts are applied as in old days 60:40. Rear/Front rotors/brake pads are no longer that different size either.

[nu11eaf]

I booked my car in for the recall work today and mentioned the rear pad wear and was told it was due to using the auto hold and auto park brake release.

[Jackysi]

Originally Posted by nu11eaf

I booked my car in for the recall work today and mentioned the rear pad wear and was told it was due to using the auto hold and auto park brake release.

That does make sense yea. I do not use the feature, but it does work that way that it uses mostly rear brakes for that.

[CJL]

I've had Volvos for over 20 years and they've always worn rear pads faster than front.

i have a V70 (manual) and always release the electronic brake manually before driving away, and expect to replace the rear pads for the 2nd time before the fronts.

Imagine the electronic brake takes 1/4 revolution to release (it actually takes a lot less), that equates to the brake being on for 50cm of vehicle travel. Let's also say you use the handbrake 50 times a day (for most people it would be much less), that's only 25m of extra braking per day.... like 1 average low speed stop.

[Zebster]

I've just replaced the rear pads on my older gen (P3) and followed this even older guide... Part way through it does also contain detailed info on how to rewind the EPB mechanism using a PP3 battery, which is how I did mine and some may find simpler than separating off the motor. I recently updated the thread with my experiences plus a bit more detail... https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=206272

[nu11eaf]

Originally Posted by Zebster

I've just replaced the rear pads on my older gen (P3) and followed this even older guide... Part way through it does also contain detailed info on how to rewind the EPB mechanism using a PP3 battery, which is how I did mine and some may find simpler than separating off the motor. I recently updated the thread with my experiences plus a bit more detail... https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=206272

Good write up and photos. 👍

I was going to use a power supply 12 or 9volt to wind the motor off but I did not have suitable connectors and when I looked at the job it was just a few minute job to remove the motor so just got stuck in, if I had the connectors I would have used that method.
My XC90 motor drive is the opposite way to yours ie the motor has the female spline and the piston has the male spĺined motor connector protruding that you can grip with your fingers to wind in. Not that it makes any difference but just an observation and for anyone else who may tackle this easy job.

[mike95]

Originally Posted by nu11eaf

2016 XC90 (2017 MY) 19K miles, mainly town driving.
After my brakes started to squeal (only after long journey of over 30 miles when brakes were hot) I inspected the pads and discovered the rear pads only had about 1/8" of meat left on them, the discs were still fine with minimal normal wear. Front pads still about 35% - 40%.
Old rear pads.
Attachment 124658

I know many will have already done this easy job but some may be put off by the electric parking brake so thought I would post this to show it is a really easy job.

I fitted new pads to the rear today with no special tools other than a T30 and T45 Torx bits.
The job was so quick and easy and took about 15 minutes each side after removing wheels.
With gear selector in Park and Parking brake off I removed the two T30 Torx head bolts from the parking brake motor and pulled motor away from the piston, then I wound the piston to motor connector spline "clockwise" until it came to a stop, you can do this by hand but it is easier with a socket over the spline (but still turn it by hand, do not use a ratchet)
I then refitted the motor ensuring all was nice and clean.

I then pulled the spring clip off the front of the caliper and removed the two caliper slider bolts plastic dust covers and using a T45 Torx bit socket I removed the two slider bolts and lifted the caliper up and removed the pad at the rear of the disc then slid the caliper loosely back in place, I then used a small lever to push the piston back, this took no effort at all.

Then I pulled caliper back off and removed the front pad and cleaned everything up and applied copper grease to pad/caliper metal to metal contact points and located the pads,
the pads at the rear of the discs are directional and have an arrow and L and R on them to show you which goes were so you can't go wrong, the pad at the front of the disc has a sticky coating on the back and a peel off paper that you peel off before fitting the caliper.

The caliper was refitted over the new pads and the slider bolts refitted and dust caps replaced, the spring clip refitted to the front of the caliper and that's it job done.

After doing each side I pumped the brake pedal to press out the piston and started the engine and with my foot on the brake applied the parking brake on and off three times and could feel the pedal drop slightly as the parking brake wound on.
I did this after doing the each side so that the brake fluid that gets pushed back into the master cylinder when the piston is pushed back to fit new pads gets pumped back as the piston goes forward onto the pads, there is less chance of over flowing the master cylinder reservoir that way which may happen if both sides pistons are pushed right back at the same time.
Wheels on and road tested and all good.

Note: The fluid level drops over time as your brake pads wear down and piston's are pushed out to maintain pad contact to discs, the level will return to normal with new pads but If you have topped up your master cylinder at any time due to level drop, watch the reservoir level as you push the piston's back as it may overflow.
The reservoir is on the bulk head under the bonnet and accessed by lifting a plastic cover on the scuttle.

Just wanting to say thanks for taking the trouble to do this. I did mine yesterday following your instructions precisely and it was really easy.

Took the opportunity to put her summer wheels back on so a good days work all round.

Thanks again. Much appreciated.

Mike