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S80 '06-'16 / V70 & XC70 '07-'16 General Forum for the P3-platform S80 and 70-series models |
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Oil queryViews : 1194 Replies : 22Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jan 17th, 2020, 12:37 | #11 |
Pete
Last Online: Jul 4th, 2021 22:21
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According to the castrol site your engine should be 0w30 A5/B5 oil.
Just go on yourself and double check with your reg number or call volvo and ask them. If they have put the wrong oil in go back and get it changed and with a new oil filter.
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2003 V70 D5 [163] SE - Sold at 188,000 miles. 2011 V70 D5 [215] Rdesign - currently owned. |
Jan 17th, 2020, 13:11 | #12 |
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'Synthetic blend' does point toward a semi, though most synthetics are hydrotreated mineral oils, so it depends on the amount of processing as to whether it constitutes a semi or fully.
To somewhat of a degree, what matters more is the additives/polymers and oci. A3/B4 is not going to cause any trouble in this engine, infact it will most likely protect better. It is in debate as to whether volvo changed the internal tolerances going from euro 3 to euro 4. If they did, it wont hurt, if they didnt, A3/B4 is the better oil to use. A3/B4 and A5/B5 are essentially the same other than the ''stability' of the oil under pressure', A5/B5 being less 'robust' than A3/B4 (easiest way to word it to the layman). |
Jan 17th, 2020, 13:14 | #13 |
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It would be better to replace it indeed, but so long as it is changed early (8k max) it shouldnt do any harm, unless driven pretty hard.
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Jan 17th, 2020, 13:18 | #14 |
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I think driving it hard ( on public roads) does oil more good than harm :-) By driving condensation out ..
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Jan 17th, 2020, 14:46 | #15 | |
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Quote:
Driving it hard provdes greater load intervals to the oil in the bearings (as does towing etc) meanng an oil with a lesser hths and/or loss of viscosity will allow metal-metal much more readily, plus, greater combustion byproducts and higher sustained temps kill the add-pack and oxidise the oil more. |
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Jan 17th, 2020, 15:58 | #16 | |
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Quote:
Remember the engine has a heat exchanger for the oil so it rarely drifts from the temperature of the coolant even when pressing on it won't go over 120C which is well within even cheap oil limits . as high rpm is never used these days . Extended periods at 6000 rpm will rapidly heat the oil of course but with the high efficiency heat exchangers it wont rise far ..
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My comments are only based on my opinions and vast experience . Last edited by Clan; Jan 17th, 2020 at 16:07. |
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Jan 17th, 2020, 20:30 | #17 |
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There are parts of an engine which exceed the 'overall' oil temp, and the harder an engine is pushed the hotter these areas, this is where the oxidisation occurs. Cylinder walls, valves, and turbochargers to name but a few. Yes the oil temp post cooler might be 120° but elsewhere it can waaaaay exceed that, which is why oil cooling is used.
If you use the right oil in the right engine and drive it in the right way, no, you shouldnt get notable contact, but use the wrong oil (such as A5/B5 in an engine designed for A3/B4, or certain C spec oils in engines designed for A/B spec, etc) and/or push the engine hard, especially a diesel with slugs of torque, and yes you can get contact where you didn't ought. To maintain the oil cushion within the bearings requires the correct hths, flow rate, oil pressure, clearances, rpm, viscosity, and balance of rotational mass. As the combustion pushes down on the crank, it disturbs the oil cushion and effectively tries to squeeze the oil away, the bigger the 'bangs' the harder the oil cushion tajes a pasting. An old big petrol volvo engine lazing around in a 240 will give little bother to this equilibrium, a turbo diesel being caned or towing a heavy load, fully laden, maybe both, puts one hell of a load on this oil cushion, so you dont want to tip the apple-cart where possible. Of course the D5 is still a well built and relatively lazy lump compared to summat like a 1.6d so is pretty tolerant at the end of the day. Try running std 10w40 semi non vag spec in an early pd and see how long the camshaft lasts, or use the psa 1.6d dpf with cheap oil at 18k oci's switchng engine off immediately every time never giving turbo time to lose some heat, see how long until the oil turns to tar and clogs everythng up... 😉 Last edited by AndyV7o; Jan 17th, 2020 at 20:56. |
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Jan 17th, 2020, 21:41 | #18 | |
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Quote:
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Jan 17th, 2020, 22:17 | #19 |
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I wouldn't do 18,000 miles without changing the oil anyway, but that's just a personal preference. The owners manual says 0w-30 oil should be used, but I don't do any towing or what I'd consider to be 'hard' driving. When searching on Halfords & Euro Car Parts for oil, both 0w-30 & 5w-30 come up. I can only presume people use 5w-30 oil because its cheaper.
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2007 S80 2.4 D5 - 110,000 miles Last edited by Kev0607; Jan 17th, 2020 at 22:28. |
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Jan 17th, 2020, 22:40 | #20 |
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Does anyone know what these codes are that come up on the diagnostics report?
CEM-B111513 High mounted stop lamp control - General Electrical Failures - Circuit open (DTC is found active) ECM-P201500 Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Perf (Bank 1) - (DTC is found active)
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2007 S80 2.4 D5 - 110,000 miles |
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