Need help diagnosing engine running rough

[SalvadorP]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

You've answered your own question there Salvador. Spray the nuts/bolts on the exhaust with penetrating oil daily before using the car and when you come to try and undo the various fasteners, get the engine nice and hot (wear gloves so you don't brn your hands) and use 6-sided sockets, not open-end spanners or 12-sided sockets.
Also sometimes trying to tighten while hot can help release the threads as long as immediately after trying to tighten you loosen.

The dizzy cap is probably worth doing too but do the exhaust first as you won't know if there's any improvement with the exhaust leaking like a sieve!

Yes, i need to do the exhaust, and thanks for the tips. That's what I was thinking of doing. Spraying it daily for a while. I don't have a place to work at in Barcelona, so I'm considering renting a box with lift, 15€ an hour, comes with an impact gun and a box of tools.
Just not sure for how long i should rent. If i make sure I can undo the nuts before going, assembly is probably a fast process I'm guessing.

You are right, probably the exhaust is the main culprit, but the relation to weather got me thinking of distributor. But sure, i won't know until i swap the muffler and cat.

[TonyS9]

Originally Posted by SalvadorP

Got it. Found a guide on this:
https://blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-repl...otor-and-seals

This doesn't show how to change the seals and washers we are talking about, the ones it refers to are just the easy to change ones and rarely a problem. There are 2 oil seals inside the rotating assembly, aswell as fibre washers, its these that fail.

Its very hard to dissassemble the distributor, you need a special tool (maybe have to make it unless someone is loaning them out) to remove the pin. Some have managed with a vice and so on, I failed to do it (so far).

The cap, cover and arm are easy to clean. Cleaning the leads is also recommended.

[TonyS9]

Originally Posted by 360beast

Chances are the fibre washers are broken and the oil seal in the distributor has failed allowing oil in to the distributor cap area and allowing the rotor arm to move up and down.

You don't happen to know where to get the washers?

[SalvadorP]

Originally Posted by TonyS9

You don't happen to know where to get the washers?

Oh, i see. What's the solution then? Change the whole distributor?
I've looked for the washers by part number and i remember getting some results on google. But maybe i had the wrong part number.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...her-oeq-969333

[SalvadorP]

Originally Posted by TonyS9

You don't happen to know where to get the washers?

In the forum there is a thread about it. Someone mentions buying them from bearings.co.uk. old thread though, 2011
Here's the link: https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?p=843728

[Forrest]

I had a somewhat similar problem a year or so ago. Thread, including some videos of the symptoms, here:

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=313229

In my case it was duff HT leads exacerbated by a very worn distributor cap and rotor arm. I did not need to rebuild the distributor.

I fixed a lot of other genuine issues along the way and the only new parts I probably didn’t really need at the time were the spark plugs.

The occasional stalling I referred to in the linked thread turned out to be due to a failed turbo bypass valve which I finally resolved a few weeks ago.

[SalvadorP]

Originally Posted by Forrest

I had a somewhat similar problem a year or so ago. Thread, including some videos of the symptoms, here:

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=313229

In my case it was duff HT leads exacerbated by a very worn distributor cap and rotor arm. I did not need to rebuild the distributor.

I fixed a lot of other genuine issues along the way and the only new parts I probably didn’t really need at the time were the spark plugs.

The occasional stalling I referred to in the linked thread turned out to be due to a failed turbo bypass valve which I finally resolved a few weeks ago.

Thx for the link. I've just read the whole thread. Very insightful. I know the cables on mine aren't too old and they are volvo original. That's why I didn't think much about them. Also I've fiddle with them a bit like moving them while the car is runing to see if i notice any difference but no. This week I might clean the distributor and rotor. I wanted to do the exhaust first, but I came home to a 200€ fine from accidentaly runing a red light back in november, so exhaust will have to wait until next month. Better start with the fix that doesn't cost anything.

Btw, you cleaned MAF with carb cleaner? I thought you could only clean it with the proper spray made for it, becuase of residue.

[360beast]

Originally Posted by TonyS9

You don't happen to know where to get the washers?

Originally Posted by SalvadorP

Oh, i see. What's the solution then? Change the whole distributor?
I've looked for the washers by part number and i remember getting some results on google. But maybe i had the wrong part number.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...her-oeq-969333

That's the one in that link Tony, you can also get the oil seal from them.

I ordered 60 fibre washers last time I ordered from them.

[TonyS9]

Originally Posted by 360beast

That's the one in that link Tony, you can also get the oil seal from them.

I ordered 60 fibre washers last time I ordered from them.

I have the oil seals, do you have any washers left..and a tool?

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by SalvadorP

Thx for the link. I've just read the whole thread. Very insightful. I know the cables on mine aren't too old and they are volvo original. That's why I didn't think much about them. Also I've fiddle with them a bit like moving them while the car is runing to see if i notice any difference but no. This week I might clean the distributor and rotor. I wanted to do the exhaust first, but I came home to a 200€ fine from accidentaly runing a red light back in november, so exhaust will have to wait until next month. Better start with the fix that doesn't cost anything.

Btw, you cleaned MAF with carb cleaner? I thought you could only clean it with the proper spray made for it, becuase of residue.

Proper carb cleaner won't leave a residue.