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[Daim]

Originally Posted by Kev0607

I agree regarding knuckle design. Getting the shock absorber from the knuckle on a P3 can be a nightmare. A simple "bolt through" design like the P2 had would be so much easier.

Without high jacking this thread too much, the correct tool will make the job much easier. I had no worries getting my front shocks out. Dodn't even need a hammer or some lube...

[Kev0607]

Originally Posted by Daim

Without high jacking this thread too much, the correct tool will make the job much easier. I had no worries getting my front shocks out. Dodn't even need a hammer or some lube...

Shouldn't need a special tool... That's why the design is bad. Its designed to make it hard for the DIY'er.

A socket on a breaker bar and a ratchet would have worked just fine like the previous cars, or an impact gun.

[Daim]

Heck, even without a special tool. Little piece of metal, put it in the slot, use the clamp bolt to pry it apart. The design isn't to make it hard for the DIYer. If it was ro be against DIYers all the time, you would need some kind of special tool to remove the strut. It already requires a spring compressor to change the shock parts properly, Kev. A good tool to compress the spring SAFELY costs a good £150. I don't mean bog standard cast iron hooks on a threaded rod. The 'special' tool to release the clamp is like ~£20. If at all.

If the car was made to not be for DIYers, it would be a Jaguar XJ (X308 base) and would require loads and loads of special tools just to do the suspension. Beginning with extra balljoint presses over this that and the other. A simple knuckle clamp to make it hard for DIYers? Sorry mate, not taking it

[spottedhaggis]

Thanks all for this, good to know what is recommended. Ill look at the suggestions. Given its likely neither rears have ever been done, is it worth me doing both a the same time, I know they arent like brakes or tyres, but im touching 160k miles, and the front drivers side was done last year, thinking maybe do both rears myself, and the front later?

[Kev0607]

Originally Posted by Daim

Heck, even without a special tool. Little piece of metal, put it in the slot, use the clamp bolt to pry it apart. The design isn't to make it hard for the DIYer. If it was ro be against DIYers all the time, you would need some kind of special tool to remove the strut. It already requires a spring compressor to change the shock parts properly, Kev. A good tool to compress the spring SAFELY costs a good £150. I don't mean bog standard cast iron hooks on a threaded rod. The 'special' tool to release the clamp is like ~£20. If at all.

If the car was made to not be for DIYers, it would be a Jaguar XJ (X308 base) and would require loads and loads of special tools just to do the suspension. Beginning with extra balljoint presses over this that and the other. A simple knuckle clamp to make it hard for DIYers? Sorry mate, not taking it

Sorry mate, you can take what you want... I'm not really bothered.

I know it requires a spring compressor. Its a McPherson assembly... they all need that... Lol. I know how to replace a shock and springs... I've done it many times on lots of different cars. I haven't come across many shock absorbers where you have to put a punch or something to separate the shock from the spindle. The bolt through the spindle (like P2's have) is just somewhat easier and I guess simpler? I didn't use a special tool either when I did my Dad's. Well, nothing out of the ordinary anyway, just a narrow chisel. Not that it was hard to do, but it was something else to be aware of. I did question why they didn't use the P2 design at the time I was doing it... Ford I guess. I did the same job on another Volvo that was a rust bucket. It wasn't as easy and required lots of penetrating fluid and a lot of whacks with a hammer to get it to separate.

On that note, P3 Volvo's like ours aren't as easy to work on as the P2 models from the previous generation. There's a reason there's not as many P3 repair videos as there is for P2 chassis... just look on YouTube. Either people can't be bothered repairing them and recording it, or they let garages do the work. P3's are getting old now too... yet you won't find much on them.

Look for P2 repairs on YouTube, you'll be watching endless videos. P2's are more DIY friendly, arguably better designed, and pretty much anyone that has had a P2 and changed to a P3 will tell you the same.

Originally Posted by spottedhaggis

Thanks all for this, good to know what is recommended. Ill look at the suggestions. Given its likely neither rears have ever been done, is it worth me doing both a the same time, I know they arent like brakes or tyres, but im touching 160k miles, and the front drivers side was done last year, thinking maybe do both rears myself, and the front later?

You could do that if you wanted. Although, its not absolutely necessary. If the wheel bearings have no play and they aren't making noise, you could leave them alone and only replace the one that's making the noise. Its entirely up to you... if you have the funds and time to do it, then go ahead. If not, just replace what's needed. Make sure you buy good quality bearings like FAG or SKF. Don't use cheap junk.

[Daim]

@Kev

I'd say because the P2 is longer on the market and has been in the hands of DIYers longer than any P3 model. So probably that. Back as I had a C30, the DIYer scene then was non-existing...

Back then most things were also shown with pics rather than other media methods... The P3 is as easy to work on as a P1. A lot easier than an older Jag (I6/V8/V12) but not as easy as a Fiat Panda with a 0.9l Fire engine which just wants a new head gasket every couple of years...

My Mum's former S80 (P2) was a PITA to repair... But then again, it was just a runabout - so not much care given.

[Kev0607]

Originally Posted by Daim

@Kev

I'd say because the P2 is longer on the market and has been in the hands of DIYers longer than any P3 model. So probably that. Back as I had a C30, the DIYer scene then was non-existing...

Back then most things were also shown with pics rather than other media methods... The P3 is as easy to work on as a P1. A lot easier than an older Jag (I6/V8/V12) but not as easy as a Fiat Panda with a 0.9l Fire engine which just wants a new head gasket every couple of years...

My Mum's former S80 (P2) was a PITA to repair... But then again, it was just a runabout - so not much care given.

I guess the age is a factor too. I'm hoping to see more repair videos on these cars to help out a bit. Shipping it to the garage is the easy option, but not necessarily the cheapest!

[Daim]

Originally Posted by Kev0607

I guess the age is a factor too. I'm hoping to see more repair videos on these cars to help out a bit. Shipping it to the garage is the easy option, but not necessarily the cheapest!

Couldn't agree any more! I do use my workshop still for smaller things but the majority is done by myself...