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Guide to Pollen Filter change

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Old Sep 26th, 2011, 11:13   #1
Welton
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Default Guide to Pollen Filter change

Here's how I changed my Pollen Filter (multi filter):

Note; this is a horrible job, takes about an hour but I'd say you could do it in 30 mins next time around. I am 40 and probably not as agile as I used to be but some of the positions required to do this job will test your patience for sure. I've got quite a few minor cuts, saw elbows and a bruised hip! anyway, I'll soldier on....

First up, get this bit of carpet down in the PASSENGER foot well by pressing lightly in the centre of the two round 'popper' fixings:


This is what's up there, and in the way of the job:


This fuse holder/CEM unit needs to be lowered and pulled clear of its mounting bracket you release the unit with the two turn-buckle things. Here you can see where the unit can be lowered for changing fuses or pulled clear of the bracket:

The unit lowered down:

And the unit lowered (pull the carpeting down first) ignore the plastic trims I removed, that was me investigating the access:


Now you need to get the white bracket off (because it's in the way of the filter 'door') by undoing the two 13mm nuts using a socket on an extension bar, I just let the bracket fall down out of the way (careful not to drop the nuts though because they fall behind the carpet - twice in my case!):


Now get the pollen filter cover plate off, this should have 3 x 7mm? hex-head screws but mine only had one in the centre (dealers probably lost the others or gave up the will to live at this point so one it is) the cover pulls slightly towards the bulkhead as it has a 'tab' along its length:

Me reaching to get the screw out by hand so it didn't drop somewhere:


Now, wrestle the old filter out by pulling to the left - you'll have to squash it down to get it past the CEM etc and some bits of leaves and stuff will fall out - I used a long hoover nozzle to vacuum the bits up and got my finger in the empty filter casing to flick out for any bits.

The new one has to be offered 'up' the back of the bulkhead to clear the wiring looms and then brought down level with the filter box and pushed in - again the filter squashes down when you need which helps:




To compare, the old one has done about 14,000 miles in 17 months, that's 'if' it got changed at the previous service. Also note the direction of airflow is marked on the filter and must be fitted the correct way, for reference the air comes from the front of the car towards the Radio:


When you put the CEM/fuse holder back (remember to replace that white bracket) be careful as the wiring connectors can 'unhook' themselves one did it twice on me and was labelled 'cockpit 2' - just make sure the connectors are seated fully on both sides of the unit:


I was getting a slight smell each time I started the car and this has cleared. As I said it's a horrible job but manageable with simple tools and some patience. It is also possible to do without disconnecting the battery or unplugging the CEM which prevents possible faults later.
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Last edited by Welton; Sep 26th, 2011 at 12:29.
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Old Sep 26th, 2011, 11:35   #2
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Excellent!

Nice little guide there.

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Old Sep 26th, 2011, 11:38   #3
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Brilliant. Been looking for a photo guide to this for ages.
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Old Sep 26th, 2011, 12:22   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCN85 View Post
Brilliant. Been looking for a photo guide to this for ages.
That is why I did it because I couldn't find one, well, I did find one and went off on a huge mission mistakenly following a LEFT HAND DRIVE guide and even got the cover plate off of the Heater Matrix! a FAR worse job than the pollen filter but all in vein.

I hate to say this but I can't help thinking some garages would skip this job if they could get away with it.
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Old Sep 26th, 2011, 13:16   #5
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Done that. Absolute pig of a job I found. What a ridiculous place to put it. I found one of those plugs in the CEM "tray" a little devil as it looked fine on shutting but then gave me no power at all. Right little b****r.
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Old Sep 26th, 2011, 23:45   #6
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This is a great thread! Thanks.
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Old Sep 27th, 2011, 00:51   #7
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Your description is very similar to that given in the Haynes manual, except that their first step is to remove the glovebox! D'oh, i doubt very much that a Volvo technician would do that! I would suspect that a Volvo technician would do the job in about 15-20 minutes, but it does seem a very fiddly job for something that's meant to be done every service, and one wonders whether it's sometimes skipped.
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Old Sep 27th, 2011, 02:58   #8
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Good guide, might have a crack at doing it myself, was put off by all the other guides saying to remove the glovebox as froggyted said.

Slightly off topic, does anyone know the part number for that bit of carpet, one of my poppers is broke so it dangles down no matter how many times I try to wedge it up.
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Old Sep 27th, 2011, 08:00   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bendolfc View Post
Good guide, might have a crack at doing it myself, was put off by all the other guides saying to remove the glovebox as froggyted said.

Slightly off topic, does anyone know the part number for that bit of carpet, one of my poppers is broke so it dangles down no matter how many times I try to wedge it up.
Best to ring FRF or someone for a price, I don't think it would cost much.

I looked at removing the glovebox but couldn't really see it helping much so seeing as I managed without it then I guess my way works ok (albeit a right faff about) I'm still aching today with a stiff neck!
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Old Sep 28th, 2011, 01:04   #10
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Removing the glovebox is actually very easy and doubles your working space!

I literally disconnected everything from the CEM and chucked the unit on the back seat out of the way. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY if you're unplugging stuff from the CEM unit however! You get a horrible beeping noise if you dont.

It's a very fiddly job, but anyone can do it with a basic set of sockets and screw drivers.
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