Idling/Stalling Problems - Volvo 440 GLT

[Paul240480]

The fly-wheel sensor is on the 'bell-housing'. As you look into the engine it will be down and slightly to the right. You should be able to find an electrical connector (black) - a double wire connection. If you can find it the wire will lead down to the sensor which is simply bolted to the housing with two bolts. If yours is non-turbo (which I think it is) it will be quite easy to locate. If it is a turbo then there will be a load of other pipes & things to make it more difficult.
You can test the sensor in-situ, by unplugging the connector and testing resistance. You should get 220 Ohms +/- 60 if it's okay. There is no adjustment on these. If resistance is good, then unbolt it & clean it carefully. If resistance is out, then replace. I got mine from a breakers for £10! (Took my tester to check resistance prior to buying).
If you still cannot find it, let me know, as I have my old one so could put a piccie up if needed.

[PinkPig]

it was something really technical and very expensive.

Yep - a blocked vacuum line that goes off to some sensor or actuator somewhere apparently. Garage sorted it, now it works, I hope for a while....I'll let you know. it was slowly getting worse, heat causing the pipe to expand / contract and eventually running only on enrichment (choke)

Thanks to all for all the suggestions:-)

PS_ flywheel sensor is on top of the clutch housing - right hand side of engine as you look under the bonnet

[Paul240480]

Glad you got it sorted, and THANKS for updating, we do not get enough updates!

[rachapman]

Hi PinkPig,

Thanks for posting your fix - was having the same trouble for months which finally came to a head with it completely loosing all power. Was resolved to fact that it was probably the end, but... found that little brass ring ristricter ring in the vacuum hose between manifold and MAP sensor and so far, its working. I'm nervous to take it for a proper run out, but I think that has fixed it, so thanks

[Anadinolin]

cool, mine has started to run a bit lumpy when cold aswell, when i drop the clutch pedal the revs would drop low then bounce high and settle - could it be the same thing? (b18u)

[Ian Fife]

Just for the record - whenever I've had lumpy running/poor idle on 440 GLT with B20F engine, or on 940 GL with B200 engine, I've managed to cure both by doing two things:
1) clean the throttle body internals and make sure all small drillings are clear -the throttle bodies can get very oily/varnishy on old high mileage engines
2) clean the idle valve internals - similar muck as in the throttle body.

Best to use fuel injection cleaner for this job to make sure you don't damage any coatings or plastic bits - I'm told carburettor cleaner will do some damage to some parts,

IanF

[Volvorama]

I have a 1994 1.8i which was fine until we replaced a thermostat that made it run cold. Now it does the variable speed tickover then stall thing. We're looking for air leaks, mostly.