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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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New (to me) 1980 Volvo 244Views : 2028586 Replies : 4092Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jul 13th, 2020, 21:21 | #1441 | |
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Do you mean something like this for the valve tool? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/S-HVS-Ove...C/123654131858 At that price, your labour to make one would cost more than a ready made job!
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Jul 13th, 2020, 21:54 | #1442 | |
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This is the Volvo tool: I'm guessing that on the other tool the hook bit would go under the camshaft, then the foot would press down onto the bucket, I'm trying to envisage it. The tool I was thinking of making was a wedge like this one: ... really simple, but probably a fair bit of time to get dead right (although once it works that would be it in perpetuity). The tool you have suggested looks quite promising, I'll do some research tomorrow, maybe there is a YouTube of it being used so I could get an idea whether it would work on the RB. Many thanks, Alan Last edited by Othen; Jul 13th, 2020 at 22:03. |
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Jul 13th, 2020, 22:16 | #1443 |
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Looking at it again, now i can see it with the camshaft/valve arrangement on the redblock, i'd say it had two hopes of working, Bob Hope and antelope!
Sorry about that! However it gives me an idea! Let me have some time to think and i'll draw it out, then post a pic of my scribbling! *** EDIT *** Two possible designs, first fits between the lobes on the same cylinder and depresses the buckets of both valves, second alternative fits on the camshaft either sdie of the lobe you've just measured the clearance on, depresses both edges of the bucket. Simple but should be effective!
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Jul 14th, 2020, 06:31 | #1444 |
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Many thanks for the sketches, I think both might work pretty well. Both would require some pretty accurate machining to get right, but would have the advantage of not needing the cam to open the valve before wedging it (as per the BofH photo). The simple wedge in the BofH photo would be rather easier to manufacture, and I think more tolerant of inaccuracies (in my engineering skills). There is another option, which is renting the Volvo gadget from ClassicSwede (for I think £1/day): That would ensure the job could be completed quickly and efficiently on the day (with a tool like that it would become a 5 minute job - if one had the correct shims to hand). The other option is just to pull off the cam, which only takes about 20 minutes (and another 20 to replace) - which isn't a difficult job (just needs a new cam end seal). Having set up the cam when I changed the head the shims won't need changing much, but I would like to have a tool to hand just in case one needs a tweak every now and then during the rest of the RB's lifetime. I wouldn't want to keep pulling off the cam or having to get the tool from ClassicSwede by mail every time a small adjustment on one or two shims might be needed, so I think I will manufacture something. I'm thinking that a more robust version of the BofH wedge would be the best thing. Something like a square section pry bar with the end cut off, then accurately ground down so it just fits into the gap between a pair of cams and the top of one bucket - perhaps with a shoulder cut in to locate it positively. I'll sketch something later on. This might be a good project for the winter break. Alan Last edited by Othen; Jul 14th, 2020 at 06:35. |
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Jul 14th, 2020, 09:03 | #1445 | |
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https://www.ipdusa.com/products/6281...ool-ipd-114934 Much better to own it than depend on a hire tool being available!
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Jul 14th, 2020, 10:32 | #1446 | |
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I strongly agree it would be much better to own one of these than rely on a rental tool being available. I'm thinking about the purchase - it looks like and excellent tool that would save a lot of hassle. The other option I have is making a more robust version of the BofH wedge, I'm liking the modified pry bar idea - I have one with a square section that might be just the right size (with a little bit of grinding perhaps). Alan |
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Jul 14th, 2020, 11:35 | #1447 |
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Some time ago I succeeded in removing shims just by levering the edge of the bucket with a large screwdriver braced against the underside of the camshaft.
It was a bit frustrating and kept slipping, so I improved on the idea by cutting slots out of a piece of gas piping, about 2" diameter, so that the two remaining prongs could be pressed down on the bucket, freeing the shim to be retrieved with long-nosed pliers. I used a flat bar of steel for leverage, with a projecting nut and bolt that located over the pipe so it didn't skid from under the bar, and a chain with hook on the short end of the lever. I can't remember what exactly it hooked on. I replaced (or actually ground down the underside of the shims that were only slightly too thick) most of the shims. Another time I used the "tool" successfully to compress each valve spring in turn to remove the collets, cap and valve spring and replace the oil seals. I locked the valves using the "rope trick" method. It was a very makeshift sort of tool, basically just a development of applying a wide screwdriver. |
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Jul 14th, 2020, 12:06 | #1448 |
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Someone mentioned on a forum a while back that a 10mm Allen key can be used in a similar fashion to the IPD tool, although I haven’t had a chance to try one.
I borrowed an IPD tool when I adjusted my valve clearances a while back, very easy to use. I found using one of those dropped item tools- a strong magnet on the end of a telescopic stick - worked well for removing and replacing the shims. Cheers |
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Jul 14th, 2020, 12:33 | #1449 | |
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I'm thinking of something similar. I've just had a look round the garage and found what I think might be the ideal basis for a home-made tool: The pry bar is 15" long and has a 9mm square section. I'm thinking that if I cut the end off, then applied a bit of heat to give it something of a bend in the vice it would probably hook under the camshaft between two cams and hold one down whilst I rotated the shaft away - just like the US made one. I'm pretty sure the pry bar came from somewhere like Aldi or Lidl, and so probably cost no more than a few pounds. I'm not likely to need this very often (maybe once a year - if then because generally the tappets will not need any adjustment). Alan |
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Jul 14th, 2020, 12:53 | #1450 | |
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Cost isn't particularly a restriction, but I'm slightly loath to invest £50ish in the IPD tool and just use it once or twice. I'm in no rush whatsoever, so I'm keen to have a go at making something that might work myself. I'll probably have a go with at this during the winter break (I was going to SORN the RB between Nov-Mar), so I could spend some time getting it just right. If I can get it to work then I could keep it with my other Volvo B21 special tools - like the distributor adjuster :-) The RB is running really well at the moment, but I was going to give it a really good check up before the winter break and see if I can diagnose anything that needs doing (I know - this is looking for issues for the sake of doing so). To that end I've just treated myself to a leak down compression tester - not because I think there is anything wrong, but because it is a fascinating tool that only cost £17.50 delivered to my house. I have to find a way of locking the RB's crank at or around TBC on the compression or power strokes for each cylinder (it is an auto, so I can't just put it in gear). I suppose the crank bolt is the obvious thing, so I need to devise a way of keeping a socket attached and fixed in place to stop things rotating while I test each cylinder. I remember having to lock the crank on a MX5 auto (to remove the crank bolt and so change the cam belt) years ago, and manufacturing a tool that latched on somewhere like the water pump (?) out of a piece of sheet steel (I should think about 8mm think) - with lots of drilling, grinding and filing after the silhouette of a cardboard pattern. Perhaps I might do the same: weld a 22mm socket or ring onto a piece of sheet steel and find a handy bolt to hold it? This was just me thinking aloud - but if anyone has an idea I'd be grateful. Alan Last edited by Othen; Jul 14th, 2020 at 12:57. Reason: Grammar. |
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