V70: Information EPB vida service quiery

[Morgasmotron]

hi everyone
bought myself some spanking new rear discs and pads for me v 70 2009 p3 2.4 D thinking
right I can do this can I ? after all theres a few vids out there with others changing out the discs and pads
on said vids ( and brake pad replacement instruction sheet in package) it mentions replacing EPB attachment bolts ( 2 torx T-30 ) plus the rubber seal on EPB when reattaching it to caliper during replacement
okay , so I phone dealership in my area and person on end of phone says ahh that be 60 quid for 4 bolts and 2 seals but ' to be honest thats a job to be only done through VIDA system by dealership as apparently if EPB electronic parking brake isnt put into service mode prior to uninstalling discs pads etc then the ECU will think old pads are on EPB may then not initiate properly causing brake or later caliper failure ie could end up costly
IS this correct ? I mean i do not doubt man on phone is quoting correct dealership recommended procedure but these guys in the vids are manually winding back the piston and detaching EPB with no mention of this

Am I throwing caution to wind dangerously here ? also hanes manual talks about possibility of flipping seal in master servo with brake fluid pressure being forced back causing total failure gaahh now that sounds headache/nightmare danger
Please Im not trying to skimp
by avoiding dealership prices but I do want to know if this is doable manually without all this worry without being risky or is this strickly VIDA territory
any advice would be appreciated

[Morgasmotron]

just to clarify as I had to hastily finish writing query as food was binging in oven as ready and mum looking at me longingly for her dinner


id go the dealership route if that is only sensible way I mean okay its gonna cost more per hour labour charge but peace of mind is preferable

or is this perhaps slight exaggeration on whats going to be simple swop out replace procedure possible by myself if said bolts and seals are replaced ( guy in vid doesn't even swop out bolts and seals )
if I turned battery feed off before disconnecting calipers surely a manual wind back of piston just means motor has further to wind on that's all when reconnecting EPB and reinitiating brakes ( like in vids ) I cant see any additional sensors on brake pads for thickness
anyone out there know what exactly the ECU is going to be doing I mean is it capable of detecting piston brake position in /out ?
If I can do this myself I want to as a matter of ability not penny pinching

[apersson850]

You can do it yourself.
There are two ways to rewind the parking brake. Either disconnect cable and feed it with 12 VDC directly to the motor. If it tightens instead of rewind, reverse polarity.
Or you remove the motor and rewind the caliper with a XZN 8 (or a Torx or whatever fits) mechanically.

But before you apply the parking brake again, after pad replacement, it's wise to tighten the brakes, electrically or mechanically, before you apply them the normal way the first time.
When you apply the parking brake, the motor will run until current goes above a certain threshold. This indicates that the brakes are applied. If the motor runs for a certain time without reaching the threshold, it will set an error code, as there seems to be a problem with the parking brake. It will work anyway, since you just apply it a couple of times until it reaches the point where the brake is applied fully. But the error code will remain and indicate a fault that really wasn't.
If you pre-tighten mechanically before re-installing the motor, it will have a normal run time until the brake is applied, and will be as happy as ever before.
When releasing the brake it just runs backwards for a certain time. Then the time allowed to apply the brake is a bit longer, to allow for wear of the pads.

Replacing the bolts and the seal is of course good if the bolts or O-ring are damaged. I'm one of those who service my brakes each time I shift between winter and summer tires, so I remove the bolts twice a year. That means they are never seized. I also take care of not damaging the O-ring, so it works just a fine still, after six years.
But if you have never removed the motor during the lifetime of the pads, then you may damage the bolts.

But you are perhaps referring to the bolts holding the caliper to the wheel hub? Them you are supposed to replace, to be able to tighten them again with the proper torque, and to make sure the pre-applied Lock-tite works as it should. I don't do it all the time, but that's up to you.

[Morgasmotron]

great thanks your response has given me heaps of confidence to attempt it myself
take the motor off ( after carefully cleaning /removing bolts on motor ) wind mechanically clockwise then carefully depress the piston back insert pads and new discs replace calipers with new bolts torque up right then
rewind mechanically the piston back to brake pad full contact position
reattach motor then wheel etc depress brake several times to get pump point back then reapply parking brake
that sounds well doable for me even and good to get indication from someone else

one last thing, brake fluid level ? if I'm depressing the piston back with a g clamp slowly and manually /carefully should I be very worried about' flipping the o ring seal in master servo' like mentioned in Hanes manual or is this when it is done roughly more likely that does sound knarly if that happens and consequently you get total brake failure but I guess ill know that if it happens because the brakes simply wont work at all or feel stuck on pedal or something anyone any experience of this particular thing?

[Semnoz]

Originally Posted by Morgasmotron

one last thing, brake fluid level ? if I'm depressing the piston back with a g clamp slowly and manually /carefully should I be very worried about' flipping the o ring seal in master servo' like mentioned in Hanes manual or is this when it is done roughly more likely that does sound knarly if that happens and consequently you get total brake failure but I guess ill know that if it happens because the brakes simply wont work at all or feel stuck on pedal or something anyone any experience of this particular thing?

Presumably when the EPB motor disengages the pads from the rotor, it's pushing the piston inwards. So I would have thought if you manually push the piston inwards at the same rate (using a wind-back tool or g-clamp), the resulting surge of brake fluid back up to the master cylinder will be equivalent ?

Just a guess....

Sorry to hijack thread slightly - just a quick question to everyone else: I have a VIDA DICE 2014A but I've not seen an EPB reset/pad change option. Should there be one ?

[big square car]

Bought myself an Autel 301 electric brake service tool for £95 of Amazon a few years ago. I've used it twice so have saved the cost of two sets of O-ring/bolt kits. I found it worked a treat. As far as pushing back the pistons all you have to do is open the bleed screws and collect the excess fluid using a piece of tubing and a suitable receptacle.

[Morgasmotron]

thanks guys its all good stuff to hear for me.
yes the costing of the bolts and seals is a bit tickler to say the least, 20 quid a pop for rubber seal not much more than the size of your big toe someones on a winner making them arnt they, so looking obviously to avoid at this point if at all possible my dollars been gobbled up by other requirements for mot up and coming i love this motor but she sure does line up a fair few costings for a poor wee scamp on a budget
guy in tyre shop today over conversation says to me
'why you buying genuine volvo parts '?
im assuming no one else is making these said seals for epb anyone out there know of other options i mean 40 quid a change is steep if i have to go down that option and knowing me if i do go the mehanical route and hand wind back the motor piston then i bet when i take the dang thing off the seal will bugger on me

[tt82]

I did it myself by winding the brake back using the Torq screw. Must have been 80k miles since as I recently just re did the rear pads but this time I had use of VIDA. Obviouslt didn't effect my car.

[Semnoz]

Originally Posted by tt82

I did it myself by winding the brake back using the Torq screw. Must have been 80k miles since as I recently just re did the rear pads but this time I had use of VIDA. Obviouslt didn't effect my car.

So a VIDA can do this ?

[Tony500]

I done mine using a 12v boost pack..... taken the plug off and put the wires in the prongs. One way puts the brake one and switch the wires and it takes the brake off. My screws are a little rusty and I did try and had a funny feeling it was going too round so used the 12v plan. Seen so many people brake the motor while fixing back onto the caliper.

Done this on a volvos, passats and golfs so far and it saves time.

Mind its at your own risk doing so.....