Amazon: Fuel Pump leave after b20 rebuild

[gothamus]

Hi all, I’ve spent the winter rebuilding my engine. On the street, sidewalk garage! And that has made for great challenges on top of such a huge project. With great challenges. Resourcing the history of posts here were a terrific help, Thank You! I’ve compiled a great notebook from many sites but people here are equal to the books. Now if I can just get Amazon started without discovering a catastrophic mistake or… something worse. It’s been an adventure.
Here is my current problem: just tried to start, engine turning over almost ten seconds. Wasn’t expecting her to start (we’ll leave that aside for now), I am just starting my car work session tonight and picking up where I was night before last, working on why it isn’t starting.
After cranking I came around, smelled gas and found petrol on the fuel pump, looks like it might have come out of the outgoing hose connection. This isn’t the first turn of the key and I’ve seen more petrol in my after-pump fuel filter than I was seeing before the rebuild. Looks quite full to me. The carb bowls look to be the right amount and no overflow there.
Vital info: I had to buy a replacement bottom end and head. Everything else- pump, carbs, exhaust and so forth are what was on my old engine. That engine was from a a ‘73 b20e and this is a ‘74 b20f. No FI, I’m using my SU HS6 that I re-built a year and a half ago (with a refresher cleaning and inspection over the winter).
The engine was last standard out of a 144 with FI and electric fuel pump. So I had to remove the block-off covering the mech fuel pump spot. I am using the spacer that I had on previously. Pump has always been working well.

Including picture taken within a few minutes of my start attempt. Possible that the pressure produced is higher for installing on this engine? Is there something I did not consider in mating this pump to a former b20f?

[mocambique-amazone]

Simple answer: No!

The pressure is given by the return springs inside the fuel pump. The pressure would rise a higher revs otherwise.
If the pump did work properly before you can't do something wrong on this side.
B20F? 8 bold flywheel?
Best engine you could find.

Good luck, there are no stupid question's in this forum, ask and we will help you.
(Okidoki some people here don't want to listen, only some for good luck)
Enjoy, Kay

[Ron Kwas]

GUS;

I'm not certain what the question is about...not starting or fuel and pump action...but do not install an FI Fuelpump and expect the SUs bowlvalves to hold back this pressure!

If Fuelbowls are filled with fuel, and active and correctly adjusted Ignition, engine should start, completely regardless of Fuelpump function! I suggest you perform a Static Timing.

Good Hunting!

[gothamus]

Thanks for the clarifying. I'm trimming the hose and clamps. Going for the simple solutions before nebulous fears. I've stumbled into many unexpected problems and delays. More than just my inexperience, but all I overcame and learned.

This is a mechanical fuel pump being used with the same SU carbs. Everything is the same arrangement as my old block and head.

My previous engine was a rebuilt b20e block and head from a 144, maybe rebuilt 20 years ago, who knows? But a mean death, poor thing.

The new engine is actually a 6-bolt, my old one was an 8-bolt. This surprised me so I hunted more details. Here is what I have now:
Engine no. 498285, type B20f, bhp 125 [SAE],vehicle 140[BW35]

I couldn’t find a good explanation for that but I think I read something about when it was cast having no bearing on it’s final production. It could have been cast in ‘73 and sat on a pallet for a year or so before they built out the engine. I am no authority here, I pieced together this intel from well researched posts. Looks great. Has a K cam. Low mileage and no further grinding.

I'm attaching a picture of little curiosity I found on the rear of the head when I pulled the old engine back in December. I guess the warranty was up in November. And a picture of my workshop. Great spot!

Thanks Again!

[simon roberts]

Hats off to you,that is real dedication!😜😎

[tdz840]

Is that post filter the right way round???

[mocambique-amazone]

This workshop

How he Hell did you lift the engines and gearbox?
In my neighborhood impossible to do this on the side of the road.
Don't throw away the 8-boldt

Good luck, Kay

[Derek UK]

Started yet? If not maybe it's timed 180º out. TDC on #1 with both front rockers rockin' for a starting point.

[simonvolvo]

[I assume the title of your original post should have read “leak” not “leave”?]

Can you wiggle the brass outlet tube with respect to the die-cast body of the pump? That can happen if you’ve been a bit too enthusiastic when removing and fitting the hose (i.e. used too much side-ways force). The die-cast material is not very strong. The consequence: a leaking pump.

This is what happened to me. Most people will just toss the pump and fit a new one if that happens. But that is not my style, and I managed to work a fix.

Give me a shout if you’re interested.

[gothamus]

I've been away for the Memorial holiday, offline and in the woods, and that is why I haven't replied. Making up to my wifey for many absent nights and weekends.

The filter is the right way round. The screw threads are on the inlet side and the out side is labeled 'out' (thank you designers).

The filters have a lot more petrol than I have seen before. I am guessing that the valves on the float bowls are closing correctly (verified levels) and petrol is pumping with no where to go. Increasing the pressure exposing weakness where the hose is connected on the outside of the pump. That's the best I can imagine, might be incorrect understanding. I trimmed the hose again and replaced the fastener. No leak again, but no ignition.

I think my timing was incorrectly set and I wasn't succeeding in getting at the correct mark. I am curious to find out how off, how I am getting that wrong. When assembling I didn't install the oil shaft gear correctly, a tooth off. (btw- Ignition123 installed, you would think that makes it easier? Guess not for this guy). Saturday I thought I would pull out gear and correct it. A few hours later, without success, I read a post that pointed out the IPD oil pump really grabs that gear. Making it very difficult to pull out. I am doing Ron's workaround (thanks again). That was in the evening, quiet time.

I hope for success tonight in my 5:30 to 9PM work window. Anxious about it because, well, I was scammed. I can't write about it briefly. There are some emotions leftover. I've been scammed twice attempting to rebuild the engine on this car. First time contributes to breaking down along the Palisades. I'm not so trusting a fellow and I am downright distrustful now. It's still unbelievable to me. So Stoopid! But past is past, no third time and I will succeed whatever comes! This is relevant since I cannot be absolutely sure about the piston rings and assembly. But I have reason enough to believe new rings and bearings were correctly installed. Everything else I rebuilt or replaced. Which I hope I did correctly, insecurities and all. I would have liked to confirm some things along the way but I don't have any resources around here I can ask.

As for street work: Easy to disassemble as much as possible and then pull the engine out. Going back in was harder and the only time I needed and was able to get a hand. Everything takes a LOT longer working this way. And there is a lot of proactive measures involved (cleaning area, good neighbor relations, good law enforcement relations, worry, being present most days sleet/rain/snow). The alternative is not having the car. (Or be rich and rent a garage for $2k a month). Pictures coming out and positioning to go in).