Steering box adjustment

[arcturus]

Steering box adjustment as outlined in manual seems to indicate that there should be little or no play at steering wheel contrary to advice given on this forum previously.
I thought that there was too much free movement this morning and when i loosened the locknut and made a small adjustment all the play disappeared but no matter how much I turn the screw now in either direction i cant get any play. Any thoughts on this? Am I reading the manual correctly. Are they referring to the box movement?

[Derek UK]

The manual assumes a box with no wear and describes the use of a clamped on arm and spring gauge to set the torque. This is being done on the bench and isn't something you can really replicate on the car. Even when new there will be a little bit of free play each side of centre, due to the design of the box. The amount that the box has worn can be guessed at by the amount of thread that shows above the lock nut. Over two threads is good. One or below show the box is rather worn and will show quite a bit of play at the wheel, maybe up to 2" either side of centre. Boxes with high miles, and that will be most of them by now, can be lived with but they still need adjusting. With jack stands under the front suspension A-arms there shouldn't be a tight spot when you move the steering wheel across the straight-ahead position. Adjust so that doesn't happen but get it as close as possible to that point. The adjuster screw has a very coarse thread so adjustments of a 1/8th of a turn or less may be needed. Be fussy. Check again after you have tightened the lock nut. Any tightness will destroy both the steering feel and at the same time increase the wear. The steering needs to be able to move smoothly back and forth across the centre point as the wheels track on the road, especially if it's a bit bumpy. When tight it will tend to slip off the tight spot and steer the car either right or left. Usually, it's into the camber of the road.
I'm sure that there are cars that have had the box adjusted on the fly without much thought that would benefit from having the screw slackened off by about a quarter of a turn. If you don't like the steering feel, try it, you can always turn it back to where it was.
As always, check that the steering arm is in the correct place on the steering box splined shaft. Both have witness marks which have to be in line. Steering arm should then be pointing absolutely straight ahead when you do the adjustment. If the wheel isn't central disregard that and recentralise it after you have done the adjustment.

[arcturus]

When you say "A"arms do you mean lower control arms. Just double checking.

[Derek UK]

Yes. When supported like this it puts the suspension in the same position as it would be if it were on its wheels. This puts the steering gear in the same position as when you're driving but there is no load on the joints (except that made by the springs) or the steering box. Also, a good time to check all of your ball joints and do your greasing.
Applies to the 144 as well.

[arcturus]

Problem is that now I can't seem to get any side to side free play, only a tightening and slackening of steering effort. It seemed to happen as soon as I first slackened off the lock nut

[Ron Kwas]

Arcturus;

Good info by Derek...note that when front suspension is connected, weight of components (when front wheels are off the ground) and preload of Springs, add forces which make getting an accurate force measurement of just Steering Box quite difficult...ideally, disconnect steering arm from suspension for making the measurement...yes, it requires a puller to separate the components, and is extra work, but I believe would make getting an accurate force reading much simpler...

Cheers

[Derek UK]

Originally Posted by arcturus

Problem is that now I can't seem to get any side to side free play, only a tightening and slackening of steering effort. It seemed to happen as soon as I first slackened off the lock nut

This is a bit odd. I can speculate but don't know if this can happen. If when you loosened the lock nut the screw also turned outwards quite a way the end of the screw might have popped over the edge of the cup at the top of the shaft. That would allow the shaft to move sideways a bit and partially jam the "wheel". If so, loosen the screw a bit more and wiggle the Pitman arm while trying to screw the adjuster back in. Parts book pic will show what I mean. I don't want to suggest taking the top off the box and seeing what is going on as you might damage the gasket but if it has been put on dry it shouldn't have stuck.

[arcturus]

So, after following all the advice I reset the steering box adjustment. Took the car on the road and felt that the steering felt odd,giggling a bit to much over not so smooth road surfaces. Tightened the adjustment screw about 1/2 turn and re tested. Seem fine now but will see how it goes and fine tune with the seat of my pants!
It's quite difficult with no other PV's or PV experienced drivers around, to get an opinion as to how it should be.I would really need to drive another "sorted" PV just to compare.

[arcturus]

So, i decided to open the steering box and have a look. Problem is that the lid won't come off, something seems to be holding it. Any way I lifted it as far as it would go, destroying the gasket as a consequence. (lucky I have a spare gasket) I have fastened the lid back on and Yes, i know that it will leak, With the axle stands under the control arms you can see how far out the adjusting screw is. In this position the response at wheels is almost simultaneous to steering wheel movement. There is movement in steering when when rocked side to side but no "free play" I expect that when I do a road test there will be lots of "free play" at steering. In the mean while I will have to remove the lid at some time to replace gasket. Is it just suction that is holding it or is there something else. Looking at your schematic i can't see anything but don't want to force it and damage something.

Road test complete, very scarey. Lot's of free movement to left before direction change. back to Garage. Turned screw one full turn and now OK. Can't beat "seat of pants"
Second pic' after final adjustment. Still no Free rocking movement at steering wheel stationary. Some free movement on the road.

[Derek UK]

With that number of threads showing the amount of wear in the box should be low. Having said that, and I'm not against "seat of the pants" adjusting, I would rather set it by the method I posted to give you some idea of the steering feel in the first place. If you then slacken off by a small amount for a feel that you like better that's fair enough. The main thing is that it shouldn't be set up on the tight side as that will speed up the wear.
Your comment that there is a lot of free movement to the left before anything happens may mean that the Pitman arm isn't fitted correctly to the splines, check that the punched dot and line are opposite each other, or the adjustment is being made with the arm off centre. Off centre, if the marks match up, means that the box isn't centralised when you make the adjustment, so you are adjusting when it's at a slack spot rather than when it's the point where it is nominally the tightest. Set the steering by the position of the steering arm not by the steering wheel, that can be centralised alter if needed. The tight spot is over quite a small arc of the steering wheel. When you find it, check if the Pitman arm is pointing straight ahead.
Check for play in the idler arm bushing.
I will try and post pictures of the marks later.