D5 Battery - When to change

[bobmccann]

My s60 d5 has become slightly sluggish to start, it had a new but unbadged battery 3 years ago. (The original volvo batery was 10 years old and I was advised that it needed changing by the RAC - who didn't sell me one there and then before you ask!)
Last week I took a resting volt reading at 12.2. I gave it a full charge and measured the resting volts again at 12.4. It ran ok for a few days but takes a few turns to start again now. Today I put vida onto it before starting, the battery readout was 11.1 and it started (not lively) and the readout went up to 14.6v, so the alternator seems good.
I am disappointed the this battery is not lasting, but is it now time for another battery, but this time a quality make? Any recommendations?
Cherrs
Bob

[Clan]

Originally Posted by bobmccann

My s60 d5 has become slightly sluggish to start, it had a new but unbadged battery 3 years ago. (The original volvo batery was 10 years old and I was advised that it needed changing by the RAC - who didn't sell me one there and then before you ask!)
Last week I took a resting volt reading at 12.2. I gave it a full charge and measured the resting volts again at 12.4. It ran ok for a few days but takes a few turns to start again now. Today I put vida onto it before starting, the battery readout was 11.1 and it started (not lively) and the readout went up to 14.6v, so the alternator seems good.
I am disappointed the this battery is not lasting, but is it now time for another battery, but this time a quality make? Any recommendations?
Cherrs
Bob

Get your first quote from your volvo dealer , very competitive .. 20% off until the new year remind them !

[Georgeandkira]

When I was young a neighbor 2 doors away was an "AP mechanic" at a nearby aviation facility. "AP" stands for Airframe & Powerplant. 'Tis a shame I didn't tinker with cars until he was approaching the end of his years. He was a helpful fellow.

30 or 35 years ago he said, "After 3 years a battery doesn't owe you anything".

I know that flies in the face of 8, 10 and even longer battery life anecdotes but it is factual.

+1 on going Volvo.

[Brendan W]

Our battery is original, 15 years, so guess what I would suggest
It is showing signs of age. Can take four or five compressions to fire instead of the usual two.
The 14.6 Volt measurement, was that at idle? It seems a bit high and when revved up did it get much higher.
Three years seems short even for a no-name battery. I would double check that the regulator is regulating and not cooking the battery.
On a more general note you can test a battery by putting on some load and watching how fast the terminal voltage drops. Don't quote me but a healthy battery with lights on should be about a tenth of a volt every ten seconds or something like that.

[oragex]

How did you measure it at 12.2V ? The most sure is to disconnect it, wait 20 minutes then measure. Don't forget to have the headlight on when reconnecting it.

Ever heard of parasitic drain? This will kill a new battery - and subsequent battery replacements - in a matter of months. A parasitic drain drains the battery overnight. Next morning the battery is recharged while driving. The cycle continues every day. Or, a car battery is not like a phone battery. A car battery is not designed to be continuously charged and discharged. Soon the elements wear and accept less and less a charge until it can only be charged to 30%-40% at which point the battery is basically useless.

So if yours cannot charge past 12.4v, it's already half worn - or even worse. If the alternator is good as you seems to be getting, almost sure you have a parasitic drain. Measure the battery at night before parking the car, then in the morning before firing it up. Any difference greater than 0.05v-0.1v means you have a parasitic drain.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0gc1SCGLfCk

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by bobmccann

My s60 d5 has become slightly sluggish to start..... It ran ok for a few days but takes a few turns to start again now.

There's a difference between slow cranking speed and normal cranking speed but extended starting.

One can be electrical based but the other may be other things which in turn can knacker the battery so which do you have?

Changing the battery if the problem lies elsewhere will only drain the new battery.

[bobmccann]

Originally Posted by Brendan W

Our battery is original, 15 years, so guess what I would suggest
It is showing signs of age. Can take four or five compressions to fire instead of the usual two.
The 14.6 Volt measurement, was that at idle? It seems a bit high and when revved up did it get much higher.
Three years seems short even for a no-name battery. I would double check that the regulator is regulating and not cooking the battery.
On a more general note you can test a battery by putting on some load and watching how fast the terminal voltage drops. Don't quote me but a healthy battery with lights on should be about a tenth of a volt every ten seconds or something like that.

Yes, 14.6 was at idle. At full load (lights, fan, demister etc) it dropped steadily but stabilised at 13.5.

[bobmccann]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

There's a difference between slow cranking speed and normal cranking speed but extended starting.

One can be electrical based but the other may be other things which in turn can knacker the battery so which do you have?

Changing the battery if the problem lies elsewhere will only drain the new battery.

That's interesting, I would describe it as extended starting (5 or 6 turns) but it doesn't feel "lively". After a drive and a warm engine it's back to starting within a couple of turns.

[oragex]

My battery was doing the same, the colder the weather, the slower the crank - yet is started every single time within seconds. Same 12.1-12.2v. Funny thing, it lasted like this for two winters - quality brand. Went to replace it finally with a new Interstate battery. Surprise - the interstate battery was also getting low. Finally replaced the trunk switch and plate light wire harness - the plate bulbs get water , start corroding and drain current with the car parked. Issue solved, battery now top full at 12.7-12.8v in the morning.

[Brendan W]

Originally Posted by bobmccann

Yes, 14.6 was at idle. At full load (lights, fan, demister etc) it dropped steadily but stabilised at 13.5.

There are a few things to do to keep an eye on your battery.
Cold voltage 12.6 V fully charged.
No load voltage a 2000 rpm+ <14.4 V
Pos and Neg drop. This is tricky on a V70 with the battery in the back. The idea is to check the drop from the main alternator post to the battery positive and from the battery case to the negative. You are looking for drops of more than 0.1 V from bad connections. Realistically on the V70 you can only go from alternator post to pos jump point and from alternator case to a body earth.
Check AC volts across battery terminals. A volt or less is OK. If you see 20 V the the rectifier has lost a leg and the system will not have the ability to charge properly.