Do's and dont's of maintenance and servicing on v70 d5 (05)

[ukvolvo]

I will be picking up our new v70 next week and wanted to clear up a few things around servicing.

1. Oil, It does not get much more important so are fully synthetic ester based oils ok for a d5? I nearly got some for my father in laws van and discovered via opie it was not usable due to the effect on emissions equipment like the dpf. So is this a issue on a d5 or absolutely fine? These oils add power and mpg so if i can i will definitely use them. My old alfa diesel drove fantastic on millers nano tech and redline racing gearbox oil. It was literally twice as smooth to drive and more powerful. It also needed ZERO top up all year as ester based oils resist temps better etc so burn off less.


2. Air filters, Already asked i know but is there any dry filters beyond standard people use? No oily sensors for me

3. Gearbox Oil, Do people leave it alone or should i give it a much needed change and put some top notch stuff in?

4. Fuel filter, Should i change it yearly or 10k or less?

5. Is there any specific service items highly recommended to change as good practice?

6.Engine mounts, Is there any specific brands beyond O. E folk like?

7. Brake pads, Again any good brands out there, Alot of branded tat exists now so its hard to tell what's what. I was pondering either black diamond or mintex.

Finally is there any suggestions people have?

I may have missed things i will add

Thanks
Mick

[Georgeandkira]

Manual or automatic gearbox? How many miles on this vehicle?

Best of luck with it.

[MROffroad]

Oil and filter every 5-10k

Fuel filter every 10k

Auto box and filter every 40k( sooner if you tow hard)

Cambelt kit water pump and thermostat every 60k. if you have just bought it and no evidence of it then get it changed. Or it’s just a hand grenade waiting to explode.

I use de-ironised water in the rad not tap water.... de-ironised water is resistant to limescale build up and over heating issues.


I’ll be told what I’ve posted is over kill. But it’s cheaper then a failure or when you need to do a hospital run at 3am and she lets you down

[oragex]

Good advice inspecting the timing belt components - including the water pump - in case they have been replaced with cheap parts. Hopefully the pump has stamped Volvo or Aisin on it
Generally speaking, use only quality brands. And don't assume that because a part is made in Germany it haas to be good. Germans make both good and cheap parts

[Bonefishblues]

Originally Posted by MROffroad

Oil and filter every 5-10k

Fuel filter every 10k

Auto box and filter every 40k( sooner if you tow hard)

Cambelt kit water pump and thermostat every 60k. if you have just bought it and no evidence of it then get it changed. Or it’s just a hand grenade waiting to explode.

I use de-ironised water in the rad not tap water.... de-ironised water is resistant to limescale build up and over heating issues.


I’ll be told what I’ve posted is over kill. But it’s cheaper then a failure or when you need to do a hospital run at 3am and she lets you down

How do you change the autobox filter please?

[eternal optimist]

If yours is an 05 it might be an E3 or an E4 engine. A black engine cover means an E3, in which case you want fully synthetic A3/B4 engine oil. I use Shell 5w40 and Mann filters. I change the engine oil and filter twice a year.

For brakes, I use Volvo discs and pads ordered from Skandix or ATE from Autodoc. Worth looking on eBay, there are sometimes good deals on original Volvo spares from a couple of dealers (Caffyns are one)

I use Mannol JWS3309 gearbox oil, again from eBay. About £30 for ten litres from memory, I swap about 4 litres every time I change the engine oil.

The cam belt interval is ten years or 108k miles. The auxiliary belt is every 54k. Do all the idlers and tensioners whenever you do the belts. The water pump rarely needs changing. I only use Volvo belts and rollers, I have got an INA alternator pulley for when that’s needed.

Worth syringing out the pas fluid from the reservoir whenever you change the oil and replacing it with fresh. Use the right fluid, not ATF.

Fuel filter, I do every 20k or so. Air and cabin filter once a year. Mann filters or Volvo; if you order Volvo filters, you’ll see they’re made by Mann.

Go cheap on maintenance and buy budget stuff from ECP and you’ll regret it if you keep the car long. If you don’t, the next owner will regret it.

Look after it and use quality parts and it won’t let you down. I bought a one owner XC70 with 120k on it about 30 months ago. It’s now on almost 180k and it’s never let me down.

[ukvolvo]

Originally Posted by Georgeandkira

Manual or automatic gearbox? How many miles on this vehicle?

Best of luck with it.

Jst over 200k and a manual sorry

I know if they have not been done recently its going to need new aux belt and tensioner, timing belt and tensionor and water pump to be safe

And the thermostat too it seems. Really glad i got a car 1k now as i can do all the servicing needed in budget and get a solid car as a reward

Mick

[ukvolvo]

I will find out soon its a e3 or 4 I've seen both already and hope its a e3 as its a simpler beast.

My to do list

Oil and filter

Manual box oil maybe?

T belt and tensioner maybe pending history check

Aux belt, tensioner, idler and water pump

Change pas fluid

Maybe flush and do coolant too

Mick

[myfirstv70]

I changed mine at circa 140k and other than it was slightly darker than the stuff going in it looked in good shape. There was some uncertainty as to what grade to put in so I opted for the safe option ie Volvos finest synthetic oil. Dead easy to do, SiRobb has kindly made a youtube video on it....in fact, nearly a video on anything you might want to do on the S60/V70! You need 2 litres from memory, 2 plugs ie drain and fill, I don't think I took the N/S/F front wheel off I got it from underneath for the drain and took the airbox out to get better access to the fill hole but still needed a longer tube to get it in.
HTH,
Nobby

[AndyV7o]

If you want slippier oil, a good middle ground is millers EE oil with nanodrive tech, but thats best used in the euro 3, as C spec oils can sometimes cause dpf trouble in these, conversely! If its euro 4 just use A/B spec oil. Euro 3 will be happy with ester/pao based oils if you do want to use them. Is the price difference worth the economy difference though? The D5 is quite robustly built and is well lubricated by std oil.

Gearbox oil, if manual, I use Gulf Syngear fe 75w80 as its very good. The redline should be fine but ester oils can sometimes ruin shifting by being too slippy for the syncromesh to function correctly, quite rare but uts something to consider. Oil is 75w as oe but 75w80 is absolutely fine also.
Pads, Ferodo premier work very well in my P2, Volvo pads are highly reputed too.
Filters, Mann or Mahle are your top items.