Apologies in advance! Engine oil

[Laird Scooby]

Use what Volvo designed the engine to use - semi-synthetic 10W40 or if you find that's too thin use 15W40. Avoid the cheaper stuff like Mannol, Triple QX and similar, use something a bit more expensive like Tradetec 10W40, Gulftec 10W40 or similar. If you use Shell Helix 10W40, change it every 3k miles as the additives that make it good when new seem to disappear and it becomes just like any cheap oil.

[Stephen Edwin]

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Yes there are opinions a plenty ... is anyone confused or confuddled yet?



P.S. My owner's handbook doesn't mention semi synthetic as opposed to mineral as being designed for by Volvo and states various viscosity ranges not just 10 40.

Thank you David for clarifying that point. I am grateful to you. For my interest, where does your information come from please?


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[Bob Meadows]

Filter:~
Mann W917 used these for ages- '88 240 & '97 V70 (these have the valve)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mann-Oil-...S/124270606568

Oil is 10/40 or 15/40 Wilco with regular changes.

Take no notice of the car in this link- just saved for the best price etc.
Bob.

[Stephen Edwin]

Originally Posted by Bob Meadows

Filter:~
Mann W917 used these for ages- '88 240 & '97 V70 (these have the valve)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mann-Oil-...S/124270606568

Oil is 10/40 or 15/40 Wilco with regular changes.

Take no notice of the car in this link- just saved for the best price etc.
Bob.

Thank you Bob.

I have been paying 30p more per filter to buy my oil filters from a Volvo dealer. (I think I'll continue.)

Oh and I have paid £1.50 for each copper crush washer. If anyone wants to economise I have some used once only free of charge and no p&p in UK to anyone who wants them.

Wilko oil sounds a good plan. I'll look in to that.

Regards
Stephen.




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[Clifford Pope]

No thanks, not without their plugs

I've never replaced the washers, but I do scrupulously keep them on their plugs, and the right way round.
I've only once had a drain plug that dripped, and that was when I was persuaded to fit a new washer.

[Stephen Edwin]

Originally Posted by Clifford Pope

No thanks, not without their plugs

I've never replaced the washers, but I do scrupulously keep them on their plugs, and the right way round.
I've only once had a drain plug that dripped, and that was when I was persuaded to fit a new washer.

Thank you Clifford. That is interesting.

Stephen






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[Othen]

Originally Posted by 2011dandd

Would a 10w 50 mineral oil be ok use with the miles I’ll be doing? I tend to change oil and filter every 6000 on my cars

... you probably wish you had not asked this question now!

People get really excited about oil, I don't know why :-)

Alan

PS. Don't worry about the mineral oil vs semi synthetic piece, that is just the way it is produced.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Clifford Pope

No thanks, not without their plugs

I've never replaced the washers, but I do scrupulously keep them on their plugs, and the right way round.
I've only once had a drain plug that dripped, and that was when I was persuaded to fit a new washer.

If it works for you that is absolutely fine. This is a really simple thing, I don't know why it has become an issue.

Ho Hum.

Alan

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Othen

If it works for you that is absolutely fine. This is a really simple thing, I don't know why it has become an issue.

Ho Hum.

Alan

It is, really simple. Crush washers should only be used ONCE!

Being aluminium or copper, they work harden and can then crack in service, leaving the sump plug loose.
Any leakages on a new one will almost certainly be down to lack of cleanliness when fitted, a bit of grit somewhere is the usual culprit, either on the head of the sump bolt between it and the washer or on the sump where the washer contacts it.

Dowty washers are another good option!

[Stephen Edwin]

Well now 2011dandd you have started a useful thread thank you.

Oil

The beginning advice of original spec. mineral oil at 20 50 Is good advice. (or equally similar at 10 40)

Many of these engines run happily on semi synthetic. Not an issue in my opinion. I've not seen anyting to convince me that semi synthetic is required but what do I know?

For me I'm still inclined to move to mineral. Bob has helpfully pointed out that Wilko offer that product, and I see it is in a metal can so no plastic bottle to muck up the environment. Kushtie. I am tempted to the Duckhams product. Twice the price eek but my car only needs one oil change a year.

Filter

One can buy cheap, it does a straightforward job. But. There are threads where it is pointed out that better filters have a non-return anti drain valve diaphram. The Volvo filter and the Mann filter for example. Bob has linked to the Mann filter, (I am paying a little extra for the Volvo name, and to support a good dealer, use them or lose them.

Copper gasket crush washer

Proof of the pudding is experience. Clifford has no leaks by cleaning and fitting back the same way round. That's the answer init?

I am stuck in my own ways and I will probably continue to use a new washer and a torque wrench. I can't understand why anyone would change the washer alternate times and I teased him by offering secondhand washers, but each to their own, live and let live.

Again 2011dandd thank you for your useful thread.

*****

Daily use.

Here's sumat for people to ahem, discuss and maybe make issues out of.

Reading the forum over a few years. There are instances of cars being out of use while time is taken achieving diagnosis and/or obtaining parts. If you are reliant on the car, it is well worth researching around the forum what spares to have, what fuse arrangements to modify, best procedure for brakes bleeding ... &c. &c.

Please enjoy your car.




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