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S80 '06-'16 / V70 & XC70 '07-'16 General Forum for the P3-platform S80 and 70-series models |
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Rear brake light 'upgrade'Views : 14258 Replies : 44Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Aug 29th, 2017, 16:46 | #31 | |
JD
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Sep 3rd, 2017, 21:44 | #32 |
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hi guys,
I wouldn't mind betting that there is a diode as well as a resistor in the module. The diode will block the 12v from the brake light circuit feeding back to the DRL / sidelight circuit. In the video, the module has a Red and a Black wire to ensure that it is the correct way round, not two wires of the same colour which might be the case if it could be wired either way round (i.e. just a resistor) I Would suggest using a 1N5402 diode which has a 3A rating. You might need to adjust (lower) the ohms value of the resistor slightly, as the diode will contribute to the circuit voltage drop. The diode and resistor are connected in series. The "line" on the diode (at one end) would connect to the brake circuit (black wire), the other end of the diode connecting to the +12 from the DRL via the resistor (Red wire). The mod is at your own risk. You will need to check with a multimeter as the above is a logical assumption and no liability accepted. Adrian |
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Sep 17th, 2017, 11:08 | #33 |
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I was just going to buy the Russian mod when I saw this thread, an hour later with a couple of bits of wire a 5mp fuse and the quick trip to Maplin's for the L100R and the lights work perfectly. So very happy camper and thanks to Tony for working it out and saving me around 40 Euros.
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Feb 17th, 2018, 20:51 | #34 |
Bungling Amateur
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Have just got myself into a lovely 2008 XC70 and was looking to buy the module to do this mod and came across this thread. Going to do it and post results. However would say with regard to the resistor, as the system is 12v the maximum current through the resistor will be 0.12 amps which means maximum power dissipation of 1.44 watts. That's about a quarter of the power/heat of a normal sidelight bulb so no worries about cable size or overheating....
I will be back (logs on to e-bay...)
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Feb 22nd, 2018, 21:04 | #35 |
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2008 V70 3.2liter 6 cyl, no turbo
Hi, guys. My '08 V70 was made for the American market so it may be very different from yours but I cannot get the tail light upgrade to work. I'm using a 10 watt 100 ohm concrete covered resistor and Molex connector clips that I stole from another project.
No matter how hard I try to insert the tiny clips, they just never click into place on the wiring harness. I'm not sure they are making a connection at all. And the lights aren't doing what this mod describes. Question 1: Does the resistor have a + and - polarity? I'm assuming that it doesn't because the resistor isn't labeled. Question 2: Some of you used wire slicers instead of Molex clips. Did anybody try sticking the bare resistor wire into the wiring harness without clips? If so, how did you get them to stay connected? Many thanks from a bumbling American! |
Feb 22nd, 2018, 22:20 | #36 | |
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Mar 3rd, 2018, 15:50 | #37 |
Bungling Amateur
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OK so I've done this mod today.
I wanted the brightness of the brake light to exactly match that of the existing rear light so I used a variable resistor instead - this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5W-Five-W...72.m2749.l2649 I also used a diode as others have recommended to prevent any back feed from the rear light into the brake light circuit. Easy mod as per the Volvo Sweden video, I used scotch locks to connect in. With the variable resistor set so that the brightness of the lights was the same - it was 50 ohms. Hence you could use a 47 ohm 10w resistor.
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2011 XC90 D5 Executive 2003 C70 T5 GT 2012 Ford Ranger XL SC 1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500 1976 Massey Ferguson 135 |
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Mar 16th, 2018, 21:03 | #38 |
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Easy Peasy. Upgrade.
After reading these posts I decided to have a go and do the upgrade. I went to Maplin and bought an L47R 47 ohm 10w resistor, a 1N5402 diode (electrocoolman advice) total cost about 40p. I bought a mini blade fuse holder from eBay for 2 pound and some red scotch lock wire connectors from halfords for about 3 pound. Already had solder and self amalgamating tape. So after reading the posts and watching the video I was ready to go. I joined the resistor to one end of the fuse holder ( the other end of the fuse holder joins to the yellow/violet wire in the plug using the connector from Halfords) then I soldered the diode to the resistor and a piece of black wire to the end of the diode with the band on. I only put a piece of wire on so the red connector from Halfords would fix to it. Then scotch locked the black wir to the grey/brown wire in the plug (as the video explains). So once the wiring was completed it took me about 15 min to fit to the car. Looks great (in my humble opinion). So to simplify
Scotch lock on one end of the fuse holder. Other end of fuse holder soldered to resistor (doesn't matter which way round the resistor is) next soldered diode to resistor, (there is a ring on one end of the resistor this goes on the wire end). Next soldered a piece of black wire to the end of the diode. The went to car and scotch locked the red wire to the yellow/violet( purple) wire and scotch locked the black wire to the grey/brown wire as the video explains. Hope this helps. |
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Mar 17th, 2018, 08:42 | #39 |
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Good man.... it is an easy mod. Having checked in the dark and re-adjusted, I’m sure now that to match the brightness of the existing tail lights the resistor needs to be 50 ohms. If you used a fixed (non variable) resistor then the closest value you can get is 47 ohms I think.
Although in theory you only need a 3w resistor, given it is in a confined space I would recommend using at least 5w, preferably 10.
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2011 XC90 D5 Executive 2003 C70 T5 GT 2012 Ford Ranger XL SC 1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500 1976 Massey Ferguson 135 Last edited by Tannaton; Mar 17th, 2018 at 08:44. |
Apr 4th, 2018, 18:38 | #40 |
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Hi guys
now I am developing a new version taillights module it remains to wait a bit ;-) [YOUTUBE]https://youtu.be/6OEGb7S_1vg[/YOUTUBE] Last edited by Evgeny; Apr 4th, 2018 at 18:55. |
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