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intake manifold air leak after pcv

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Old Sep 13th, 2018, 10:43   #1
855 tdi
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Default intake manifold air leak after pcv

I did my pcv months ago but the car had problems which sounded like a small explosion, it would rev as and when it liked sometimes instantly upon start up up to about 5k and other times it would have the rpms get lower and lower until it stalled. My suspicion was an air leak as the throttle made it rev wildy with even a small input. It's been sat on my drive since then looking sorry for itself.

Finally got around to removing the intake and I believe you can see proof of the scorch marks, the problem is why did it have a gap in the first place, is there a certain order to do up the bolts? Should I use some sealant for added precaution? The only reason I can see it to have a gap that end is the bit of metal holding a pcv pipe out of the way. I need it back on the road asap as my 940 needs work doing that will take it off the road.



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Old Sep 13th, 2018, 11:13   #2
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That bracket (shown in the top pic) is the problem. You need to put it on after fitting the inlet manifold.
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Old Sep 13th, 2018, 11:16   #3
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Originally Posted by acshortt5 View Post
That bracket (shown in the top pic) is the problem. You need to put it on after fitting the inlet manifold.
ofcourse! thanks a lot, can't believe I didn't notice that.
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Old Sep 13th, 2018, 13:11   #4
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Originally Posted by 855 tdi View Post
ofcourse! thanks a lot, can't believe I didn't notice that.
Another tip - the lower bolt holes on the inlet manifold are slotted so you can put all the lower bolts in the block slightly before trying to fit the manifold (makes it a lot easier to fit and line up the manifold and stops the gasket from moving).
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Old Sep 13th, 2018, 13:53   #5
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So having put the car back together it no longer stalls but instantly revs to about 4k, something must be sticking? The throttle body works perfectly, I cleaned it and replaced the gasket. The air leak on my manifold is now sorted. My injectors are refurbished so I don't believe it's them, I just noticed liquid on the pipe from the IAC, applying some vaseline and starting the car resulted in an instant hole in the vaseline so I guess I have more leaks and just as i'm getting somewhere my battery dies...
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Old Sep 13th, 2018, 15:08   #6
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Sounds like the cable might be sticking. Clearly they are designed to spring shut when you are not pressing the pedal but if the cable is rusty it could be jamming and not letting it spring shut.
You could try taking it off at the throttle body and putting some oil (something like 3 in 1) down it to free it up. To verify start the car and check the throttle plate is closing fully. I'm not familiar with the TDI but assume it has an idle air control valve like the petrol's. Have you plugged that in?
The later petrols (99 onwards) have a rev limit of 4K rpm when in neutral so possibly the TDI has the same?
When I replaced my cable some years ago it was only something like £35 from volvo but you need make sure you get the correct one (they are different between auto and manual as the auto one has an integrated kick down switch and possibly they are different again for the TDI).

Just seen your edit - ignore me and get the hole fixed first lol. You're getting there, don't lose hope!
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Old Sep 14th, 2018, 10:55   #7
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Getting somewhere now, I jubilee clipped on the pipe from the IAC to the vacuum tree and it has almost sorted the revving out of control. It now idles at about 1500-1700RPM when cold then seemed to settle down to about 1k, almost drivable as it is. It no longer revs to 3 or 4k RPM and although it sticks a bit when revved I believe this is the throttle body.

I did however notice the odd pop from a misfire so I reckon there's another air leak to find.. great and secondly the throttle body seemed a bit sticky which isn't helping things. I thoroughly cleaned the throttle body but don't think I greased the spring so i'll do that and see if it helps. Seems like replacing all the clips and a few pipes to the IAC might be worthwhile too. Really praying I can get this sorted before I need it for a trip to Cornwall, even better the battery seems like it's on it's way out, this T5 is becoming a money pit before I even get to drive it properly.
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Old Sep 18th, 2018, 11:57   #8
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Finally sorted out the car to a driveable state, the oil cooler line is still bloody leaking despite new clip and a jubilee clip on that too.. I believe it needs a new throttle cable as after adjustment there isn't much thread left, I also fed some oil down the cable to help it for now. Going to Volvo today to order some bit's to replace for peace of mind, supposedly the cable replacement isn't a hard job.. simple jobs never are until you hit an unforseen problem.
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Old Sep 18th, 2018, 17:51   #9
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It is possible for the oil cooler line clips to be attached where it appears to be correct but the hose is not fully inserted and therefore could leak. It's a crap design for something crucial. They also have 2 seals, a large white/clear o ring and a smaller o ring on each hose connector to the coolers on the radiator. Make sure both seals are on the hose end then push the hose fully into the rad connector before putting the metal clip on.
Replacing the throttle cable is an easy job and takes about 10 minutes going carefully, the hardest part is sorting out the pedal end just because it is awkward access. Before you remove the throttle body end of the cable make a note of how it runs and which part the end bit goes into as there are 2 different ways (auto v manual).
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Old Sep 19th, 2018, 09:26   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acshortt5 View Post
It is possible for the oil cooler line clips to be attached where it appears to be correct but the hose is not fully inserted and therefore could leak. It's a crap design for something crucial. They also have 2 seals, a large white/clear o ring and a smaller o ring on each hose connector to the coolers on the radiator. Make sure both seals are on the hose end then push the hose fully into the rad connector before putting the metal clip on.
Replacing the throttle cable is an easy job and takes about 10 minutes going carefully, the hardest part is sorting out the pedal end just because it is awkward access. Before you remove the throttle body end of the cable make a note of how it runs and which part the end bit goes into as there are 2 different ways (auto v manual).
Pretty sure when I replaced the seals and clip I pushed it in thoroughly but i'll have a look as I have more spare incase. A trip to the Volvo garage yesterday annoyingly ended up with me being told the cable is NLA so it's either aftermarket or a 2nd hand one which is pointless unless it's literally just been replaced then scrapped. I forgot to ask how much the bumper support brackets are or if they are even available anymore.
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