62 544 overheat questions

[lelshaddai]

Here are some pictures. I replaced the valve seals when I pulled the engine. But the smoke seems to indicate seals over rings. But I will have a better idea once I finish the tests.
Jim

[arcturus]

Looks like the rad' from a smaller B16.TIt's designed for a lower pressure and no overflow pressure bottle. These fans to my mind cause an air flow obstruction. if it were me I would remove one of them, but what do I know! The best way to test a 'stat Is to prize it open and insert a small piece of thread. Suspend the 'stat in a pan of water holding it by the thread along with thermometer and slowly bring to heat. The 'stat will fall of as soon as it starts to open indicating the opening temp'
B20 in 144

[lelshaddai]

This is a 62 that would have had the B18 Radiator. Is there a way to check on whether it is a B16 Radiator. I did not have the correct pic of the electric fans. Those are 2 9" fans but what is really mounted are 2 7" fans. They are a bit smaller.

[Ron Kwas]

lel;

Good Pix...

I agree...that is a B18 Radiator...and a huge engine driven fan which should move a fair amount of air through Rad even at low RPMs...it's not clear to make out the distance to Rad from pic, but looks like you could move it a bit closer (no closer than 1.5 - 2 Inches away to allow for some engine mount movement), and you could form some light sheetmetal wings (shroud) on either side to guide air and lessen bypass.

Those Elec Cooling Fans should help a lot...even if they are moving 100Deg air through the Rad (that's still 100Deg colder than what's inside, so will still take heat out of Coolant!).

The overflow tube visible on Rad is perfect for upgrading to an Expansion Tank...simple route a hose from bottom of tube to bottom of ET, wherever you decide to mount it (approx level with Rad), then permanently open pressure overflow of Rad Cap (only, not seal!) and relocate Pressure Cap to ET. See: http://www.sw-em.com/Cooling_System....r_pressure_cap

...a note on testing T-Stats in a pot on the stove...its better to suspend them from a string tied to a stick laid across top of pot, and not let them touch the pot (which allows conduction from the hot pot-bottom metal and could skew test...and the additional conducted heat could encourage a sluggish T-Stat to work when it wont when installed)...typical practice is to suspend them for testing...

I hope all of these measures help you get your cooling issues under control this warm season...have you checked Calibration of your Temp Indicator? Trusting what it indicates is one of the first things you should do (or install a secondary indicator! See: http://www.sw-em.com/temperature_gau...ng_calibration )

Located in the hot southwest, you probably have worst-case cooling needs...have you checked temp delta from input to output hoses of Rad?(try an IR/Laser Temp gauge)...should be 10-15Deg at least...worst comes to worst, you might have to have a bigger custom "tropical" Radiator made up to install...(but stay away from Aluminum radiators!...they're shiny, but don't last and are not repairable!)...another idea I have for additional cooling is to use the Heater Core (it too is a fairly big heat-exchanger which could shed lot of BTUs out of Coolant!)...just don't duct the warmed air into cabin, but modify ducting to waste it away under vehicle...

I don't see any B18 "Umbrella style" Valve Seals in place...I'd install some of those first and see if oil consumption falls to an acceptable level.

Good Hunting!

[lelshaddai]

Great information I have a spare stainless tube overflow I was going to use on a 50F1. Never installed it. It is 2 "diameter by 20" long. Would that work?

[Derek UK]

B18 umbrella seals not likely to help a B20 if the correct seals are fitted on the valve guides.
I note that you are using a single outlet exhaust system. This was changed to a twin outlet on the B18 about 66/67 and never used on the B20. This would severely restrict the outgoing exhaust flow on a B20 which could well cause it to run hot. I would upgrade that to the later exhaust manifold ASAP. As you are using the Weber inlet you will have to either find a suitable twin out carb manifold and cut out the inlet section or find one from a F.I. engine. A twin type front exhaust pipe section also needed.

[lelshaddai]

So here are some test results so far,
The temp Gauge readings using pan of boiling water with thermometer in it and the sender in the water.

208f/98c leading front edge of the white area labeled hot
192f/89c 2/3 mark of gauge
165f/74c 1/3 mark of gauge
135f/57c last/inside edge of white area of cold before going towards 1/3 mark


Compression test

cold
#1 120
#2 120
#3 112
#4 118

Warm
#1 118
#2 120
#3 110
#4 110

Wet test
#1 135
#2 147
#3 146
#4 138

I have not performed the leak down test yet.


Pic of Overflow. Will this work?


Spark plug condition

[Ron Kwas]

Derek;

I had B18 on the brain, so that's what I was expecting under the valve cover, but for a B20 (which I should have recognized just from the deck view), I agree with you of course...!

lel;

Temp Indicator Cal looks quite reasonable...as do Comp numbers...as do Sparky things...but what is that SS tube from...your still?

Cheers

[lelshaddai]

It is an expansion tank I was going to use on My Ford F1, sold the truck.

[Ron Kwas]

lel;

...I suppose you could use it...but you cant see through it to check level, it seems low in volume, and I don't know if that is a Pressure Cap on it...the OE Volvo one has definite advantages over that nice looking one...they are translucent, so allow a quick level check with a glance...with about 1 quart volume and take a standard Press Cap...

Cheers